I want to build a 2 way speaker with 3 elements :
1.Dayton Audio DC250-8 10" Classic Woofer
2.Dayton Audio DC130BS-8 5-1/4" Classic
3.Dayton Audio DC28F-8 1-1/8" Silk Dome Tweeter
The dimensions of the box is 67*38*35 cm
The elements will be at 68*38 (35 cm is the depth )
I want it 2 way because the extra bass also from the 5" woofer
what crossover do you recomend for it ? any idea will be welcome 🙂
1.Dayton Audio DC250-8 10" Classic Woofer
2.Dayton Audio DC130BS-8 5-1/4" Classic
3.Dayton Audio DC28F-8 1-1/8" Silk Dome Tweeter
The dimensions of the box is 67*38*35 cm
The elements will be at 68*38 (35 cm is the depth )
I want it 2 way because the extra bass also from the 5" woofer
what crossover do you recomend for it ? any idea will be welcome 🙂
You won't need the extra bass from the 5", 3 way will give much clearer sound.
For crossover, I suggest 2nd order LR on the woofer at the baffle step freq (300Hz), 2nd order LR on the 5" at 300 Hz & 2Khz, crossover the tweeter at 2Khz, 3rd order reverse polarity for best phase matching
For crossover, I suggest 2nd order LR on the woofer at the baffle step freq (300Hz), 2nd order LR on the 5" at 300 Hz & 2Khz, crossover the tweeter at 2Khz, 3rd order reverse polarity for best phase matching
I agree, but would use an active XO for the bass. Mid/Treble passive.
To drive the bass to Xmax you would need 84W into 8 ohm to 102dB/1m.
Mid and Treble need only 40W for the same SPL.
To drive the bass to Xmax you would need 84W into 8 ohm to 102dB/1m.
Mid and Treble need only 40W for the same SPL.
This might give you some ideas: it uses a different mid range driver, but the design is a similar concept to what you're looking at:
Barney Build Thread -
Techtalk Speaker Building, Audio, Video Discussion Forum
No crossover details, but looks like an interesting project. No idea how the Tang Band and DC130 compare to each other, of course.
HTH
Geoff
Barney Build Thread -
Techtalk Speaker Building, Audio, Video Discussion Forum
No crossover details, but looks like an interesting project. No idea how the Tang Band and DC130 compare to each other, of course.
HTH
Geoff
Last edited:
Not suggesting you change your parts, just thought it might be interesting to look at a similar project: as there aren't any details for the crossover - the important part - the link is of limited use to you but shows you what could be possible. You could always send the designer a message and see how you go.
The DC28F and DC130 are nice, value drivers, and at least in the Tritrix, they make a good combination. I haven't heard the DC250 but reviews are good.
Geoff
The DC28F and DC130 are nice, value drivers, and at least in the Tritrix, they make a good combination. I haven't heard the DC250 but reviews are good.
Geoff
Could you predict how crossover like will be ?
If necessary , will replace to better suitable MID .
If necessary , will replace to better suitable MID .
Attachments
Last edited:
I know next to nothing about crossover design, I've almost always made other peoples' designs, and only two ways or MTMs. Three ways look rather daunting!
However, I've done heaps of research while we've all been at home, and suggest that the XO above probably wouldn't work well, whatever the drivers. If you look at almost any three way DIY build, they have more parts in the mid range driver part of the XO compared to a two way, here are just a couple:
Tarkus - undefinition
Speaker Project - The Knuckleheads -- 8/23/2011
There's an older three way Dayton project called "The Lyra" by Wayne Jaeschke, but I can't find it on the Internet: it also used the DC28 and DC250, can't remember the mid.
HTH
Geoff
However, I've done heaps of research while we've all been at home, and suggest that the XO above probably wouldn't work well, whatever the drivers. If you look at almost any three way DIY build, they have more parts in the mid range driver part of the XO compared to a two way, here are just a couple:
Tarkus - undefinition
Speaker Project - The Knuckleheads -- 8/23/2011
There's an older three way Dayton project called "The Lyra" by Wayne Jaeschke, but I can't find it on the Internet: it also used the DC28 and DC250, can't remember the mid.
HTH
Geoff
That's what I afrraid of . That will be not smothe FR , maybe we could fix it with passive crossover ?
your 2.5 way schematic: zobel not needed on the woofer; no point in reversing the polarity of the tweeter if the crossover isn't an order higher than on the mid
Are you set on the cabinet size, and have you already bought the drivers?
If not, there may be an existing project of similar sound quality and cost, such as:
Classix 2.5 - undefinition
There are more expensive projects and many three way projects, of course, but I assume you have a budget to which you need to stick?
Geoff
If not, there may be an existing project of similar sound quality and cost, such as:
Classix 2.5 - undefinition
There are more expensive projects and many three way projects, of course, but I assume you have a budget to which you need to stick?
Geoff
I want to stick with the design in the first comment ,
The advices I need is about what crossover to use ,
If necessery to replace mid and the twitter .
The 10" woofer I don't want to replace
ofcourse I would like flat FR and smoth .
I need to do all callcultion . than to buy from partsexpress
The advices I need is about what crossover to use ,
If necessery to replace mid and the twitter .
The 10" woofer I don't want to replace
ofcourse I would like flat FR and smoth .
I need to do all callcultion . than to buy from partsexpress
You also need to read up before you commit to this path. We're trying to give you good advice, but if you are set in your path, then all bets are off. Simulations will be your friend and calculations will not be succinct enough.
Good luck,
Wolf
Good luck,
Wolf
I am really appreciate your advices 
The thing is , I would like to stay in the design in the first comment .
I don't know how to use speaker design software .
So I thought maybe someone here ,
will do it for me and recommend passive crosover for flat and smoth FR as posible .
The thing is , I would like to stay in the design in the first comment .
I don't know how to use speaker design software .
So I thought maybe someone here ,
will do it for me and recommend passive crosover for flat and smoth FR as posible .
Ok thank you all .I decide to cancel the project because i just bought speakers like this design 🙂
you save me . thank you . I have been trying with no succes to configure the XO . bass was indeed too week with the 10" classic woofer .with active XO the bass is superb 😱 . God bless the forums .