I have an older Schiit Bifrost that's recently started fading the right channel out and then back in. There's no weird noise or cutouts or anything. Just fades out gradually (during a span of 1 to 2 seconds), stays off for a while (15 minutes?) then fades back in.
I've opened it up and don't see anything obvious - no bulging caps or cold solder joints.
Any thoughts as to what the problem may be?
I've opened it up and don't see anything obvious - no bulging caps or cold solder joints.
Any thoughts as to what the problem may be?
One more test is necessary to clarify before proceeding.
Hook up the Schiit and play music.
Note which speaker output is bad by listening.
Turn off system.
Reverse the RCA audio output plugs at the back on the Schiit (only). Do not reverse the other ends.
Note again which speaker output is bad by listening.
Is it the same speaker? Then the Schiit is not the problem.
Is it the other speaker? Then the Schiit is the problem.
Hook up the Schiit and play music.
Note which speaker output is bad by listening.
Turn off system.
Reverse the RCA audio output plugs at the back on the Schiit (only). Do not reverse the other ends.
Note again which speaker output is bad by listening.
Is it the same speaker? Then the Schiit is not the problem.
Is it the other speaker? Then the Schiit is the problem.
If the left and right channels have separate RC low-pass filters for their voltage references, maybe one of them has a rotten contact such that the resistor gets disconnected and the sound fades out when the capacitor discharges. I have no idea if this is applicable, but it's the only hypothesis I could come up with.
It's been done. As I said, swap DAC, no problem. And yes, the right out is the problem.
I'll start going through solder joints with a magnifying glass.
I'll start going through solder joints with a magnifying glass.
Absence of a problem does not prove that the problem has been removed from the system.
But have it your way.
But have it your way.
I have Modi which worked for a few years but a recent change in ubuntu linux stopped that. Now it only works with an older linux kernel so I am considering to replace it. Not your problem, eh.
I also have a Loki tone control with 4 knobs. It came with the worlds biggest 16vac wall wart that output more than 20vac. The LM317 SMD was running hot and the pcb has a heat spreading layer that was struggling. I replaced the wall wart with a 12vac unit so the 317 had less voltage to manage. That worked.
Heat is the enemy of electronics that slowly degrades and becomes hard to fix.
I also have a Loki tone control with 4 knobs. It came with the worlds biggest 16vac wall wart that output more than 20vac. The LM317 SMD was running hot and the pcb has a heat spreading layer that was struggling. I replaced the wall wart with a 12vac unit so the 317 had less voltage to manage. That worked.
Heat is the enemy of electronics that slowly degrades and becomes hard to fix.
Do not be surprised is everything looks normal. Solder joints can be very deceptive.
SMT parts can fail internally from stress.
G²