Hi, I'm looking to build a 2 way speaker using the SB Acoustics SB15 paired with a ribbon tweeter. Can anybody explain the differences between the MFC and NRX?
How do they sound compared to each other? Which one do you prefer? Thanks!
5″ SB15MFC30-8 / Polypropylene - Sbacoustics
5″ SB15NRX2C30-8 / Norex - Sbacoustics
How do they sound compared to each other? Which one do you prefer? Thanks!
5″ SB15MFC30-8 / Polypropylene - Sbacoustics
5″ SB15NRX2C30-8 / Norex - Sbacoustics
IMHO having tried both the poly has more punch and sounds smoother.
I would suggest a pairing of the Black Aluminum 6" and the 26 mm tweeter, form SB Acoustics, but I use the 5" Poly everyday and it is awesome. The 4 ohm versions are better.
There are links in my thread Jugs MK II on this forum.
I would suggest a pairing of the Black Aluminum 6" and the 26 mm tweeter, form SB Acoustics, but I use the 5" Poly everyday and it is awesome. The 4 ohm versions are better.
There are links in my thread Jugs MK II on this forum.
The MFC is a mineral filled polypropylene. The polymer cone is strengthened with mineral powders.
The NRX is a "paper" cone material. In the context of cone materials, the term "paper" means plant fibers, wool, silk, flax, papyrus, wood pulp, and other man-made fibers which are pressed into a pulp or felt. The fibers are randomly oriented, rather than woven. SBA uses the term "norex" which to me implies that some of the fibers are Norsorex.
I built a 2-way with the 6" MFC driver and I like it quite a bit. I also have used the 6" CAC driver (ceramic coated aluminum), and it is near state of the art.
The NRX is a "paper" cone material. In the context of cone materials, the term "paper" means plant fibers, wool, silk, flax, papyrus, wood pulp, and other man-made fibers which are pressed into a pulp or felt. The fibers are randomly oriented, rather than woven. SBA uses the term "norex" which to me implies that some of the fibers are Norsorex.
I built a 2-way with the 6" MFC driver and I like it quite a bit. I also have used the 6" CAC driver (ceramic coated aluminum), and it is near state of the art.
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I currently have a Fountek Neo 3 on hand and are looking to use it. The CAC is a little bit out of my budget. I'm looking to cross it over at around 3.3khz to the ribbon tweeter.
There are lots of poly cone formulations and some of them can sound alot like paper cones depending on their profiles.
I really like the SB papyrus drivers specifically for their lower midrange clarity. The larger NRX drivers are excellent. I specifically like the 34NRXL75-8 in a 80 liter sealed box.
The smaller Scan Speak poly drivers are an excellent compromise. They sound very accurate and specifically "correct" with vocals. I'm referring to the higher Qms poly cones ie, Scan Speak 18W5537-G01 as opposed to the mineral filled poly cones ie. Vifa Ph17WJ00. Both are good, but the mineral filled poly drivers tend to swallow more subtle details.
I really like the SB papyrus drivers specifically for their lower midrange clarity. The larger NRX drivers are excellent. I specifically like the 34NRXL75-8 in a 80 liter sealed box.
The smaller Scan Speak poly drivers are an excellent compromise. They sound very accurate and specifically "correct" with vocals. I'm referring to the higher Qms poly cones ie, Scan Speak 18W5537-G01 as opposed to the mineral filled poly cones ie. Vifa Ph17WJ00. Both are good, but the mineral filled poly drivers tend to swallow more subtle details.
You don't mention which ribbon you are looking to use but most tend to need a high crossover frequency around 5 kHz or so. In which case you may be better off looking at 5" midwoofers that don't have large resonances in the crossover region.
I am tempted to comment on the wisdom of using a ribbon in a 2 way but part of the fun of DIY is about having a go based on ones current knowledge and seeing what happens both good and bad.
The tweeter is a fountek neocd 3, i am looking at approx 3.3khz crossover point, 3rd order filter
After using graph tracer for the sb15nrx and tinkering in xsim for almost a day, I gave up. Crossing at 3khz creates a dip in 7khz region which i cannot resolve.
Can someone give a good build plan for the sb15nrx? Preferably similar to the Jeff Bagby's Piccolo. Buying from meniscus seems unreasonable to me since the sb acoustics factory is in my country.
Can someone give a good build plan for the sb15nrx? Preferably similar to the Jeff Bagby's Piccolo. Buying from meniscus seems unreasonable to me since the sb acoustics factory is in my country.
My First DIY Build - SB15NRX30-8 & SB26STCN-4 (pic heavy) -
Techtalk Speaker Building, Audio, Video Discussion Forum
This is my build from 6 years ago. Build received above average rankings at two DIY events.
I listen to them a few times a week to this day.
Yes I’m at work but will try and locate them at lunch.
PM me your email, otherwise I will try and post to the forum.
PM me your email, otherwise I will try and post to the forum.
Poly cones based drivers have not said their last world. Be it: Volt, Dynaudio, AudioTechnology, SB Acoustic, Seas, etc : people often testimonies for a good non fatiguing sound.😎
Stiffer cones : ceramic, metal... have often for them the precision but at the price of often seen third or fourth order filters. I wondered back in the days if the main sound difference between those Loudspeakers with these two families of drivers was not mostly due of the filter slopes ? 😕
Stiffer cones : ceramic, metal... have often for them the precision but at the price of often seen third or fourth order filters. I wondered back in the days if the main sound difference between those Loudspeakers with these two families of drivers was not mostly due of the filter slopes ? 😕
🙂 : cool Terra cota color and awesome cabinet work : looks like an injected mould one.
For placement near wall (back of the speaker +-5cm from rear wall), which one is better, passive radiator or rear port? I am hesitant to use front port, because it will be difficult for me to implement (crossover design and what not)