So over the past few months I have acquired around 26 pounds of vintage audio components/hardware 😀. These parts were pulled from anything to Hammond Organ tone boards to 1960's professional broadcasting equipment (those huge Mallory FP caps for example). I believe at this point I have around 2000 Allen Bradley (or Siemens Military Spec) vintage resistors, lol. I wonder how an R2R DAC would do if you had all AB or similiar vintage resistors?
Some of the capacitors & transistors are especially nasty with dirt/grime and oxidation on a few. Are there certain capacitors (or other components) that you do clean and others that you never want to attempt to clean?
I have a few options already on hand such as multiple contact cleaners (DeoxIT Gold G5 & CRC QD Contact Cleaner) and solvents like mineral spirits & denatured alcohol. If I wanted to dilute the denatured alcohol for instance, can I just combine distilled water with it (2 parts distilled H2O 1 part denatured alcohol)? I have experience cleaning modern computer components from being a former IT Hardware Lead, but I have never needed to clean components by themselves (removed from boards), I've never tried to clean vintage parts (ever).
Can someone give me the guidelines of what you can/should do in regard to which components you can clean and the sort of cleaner/method of cleaning. Or is this something that nobody does? I see plenty of articles on the web about cleaning vintage amplifiers, but this is usually more worried about the PCB. I have no PCB in my way, I could soak them if it was safe.
Thanks for any input!
Keith
(ZoSoNCSU.com)
Some of the capacitors & transistors are especially nasty with dirt/grime and oxidation on a few. Are there certain capacitors (or other components) that you do clean and others that you never want to attempt to clean?
I have a few options already on hand such as multiple contact cleaners (DeoxIT Gold G5 & CRC QD Contact Cleaner) and solvents like mineral spirits & denatured alcohol. If I wanted to dilute the denatured alcohol for instance, can I just combine distilled water with it (2 parts distilled H2O 1 part denatured alcohol)? I have experience cleaning modern computer components from being a former IT Hardware Lead, but I have never needed to clean components by themselves (removed from boards), I've never tried to clean vintage parts (ever).
Can someone give me the guidelines of what you can/should do in regard to which components you can clean and the sort of cleaner/method of cleaning. Or is this something that nobody does? I see plenty of articles on the web about cleaning vintage amplifiers, but this is usually more worried about the PCB. I have no PCB in my way, I could soak them if it was safe.
Thanks for any input!
Keith
(ZoSoNCSU.com)
There are several thing you have to keep an eye on. You can usually clean most of them with alcohol but there are exceptions. On some capacitors the labels will come off with alcohol, microfaser tissues are excellent for cases you cannot use alcohol but it often gets off the labels/lettering too.
You may not use alcohol on non-capsuled oil paper capacitors or styrofoam capacitors (they may soak up any liquid) and screw-lid electrolyte capacitors (may not be tight, do not confuse it with screw-contact) or open, 'vented' capacitors or ones that have a cracked enclosure.
Generally, alcohol is suitable for cleaning most capacitors. I suggest you write down or take a photo of the capacitor before cleaning in case the labels come off. I would also suggest you use a capacitor tester to sort out the bad ones if it's not already obvious (bulging or seeping electrolyte ones i.e.).
You may not use alcohol on non-capsuled oil paper capacitors or styrofoam capacitors (they may soak up any liquid) and screw-lid electrolyte capacitors (may not be tight, do not confuse it with screw-contact) or open, 'vented' capacitors or ones that have a cracked enclosure.
Generally, alcohol is suitable for cleaning most capacitors. I suggest you write down or take a photo of the capacitor before cleaning in case the labels come off. I would also suggest you use a capacitor tester to sort out the bad ones if it's not already obvious (bulging or seeping electrolyte ones i.e.).
Yeah, lots of TV's & radios had cellophane wrapped or paper wrapped paper foil capacitors, prior to about 1965. Hammond was noteable for using better ones, but I don't know that the classic beigh wrap paper cap in hammonds 64 & earlier was wax (good) or paper (bad). I use 70% alcohol on mil-spec clone resistors (AB or Sprague) post 1961 but I replace paper/foil caps at the 50 year boundary.
European origin resistors looked good, but the paint didn't keep out moisture, a channel islands resident told me.
I clean High Voltage vacuum tube circuit boards, once the popping starts. Dirt causes popping. Also happens in 3D point to point wiring sometimes. Brought an H182 back from annoying boat anchor to instrument by general cleaning and replacing one carbon film replacement resistor missing the case. You could see the spiral wrap element of that resistor; the tech that installed that and drove away was a sleaze.
European origin resistors looked good, but the paint didn't keep out moisture, a channel islands resident told me.
I clean High Voltage vacuum tube circuit boards, once the popping starts. Dirt causes popping. Also happens in 3D point to point wiring sometimes. Brought an H182 back from annoying boat anchor to instrument by general cleaning and replacing one carbon film replacement resistor missing the case. You could see the spiral wrap element of that resistor; the tech that installed that and drove away was a sleaze.
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