Hey folks, I need some advise on the use of a rotary switch...
I have an amp that uses a rotary switch to change the output transformers different taps (ohms). What brand(s) are you all recommending for this type of switch. Being that the signal goes through the switch, I'm thinking it should of decent quality.
Thanks in advance...
Stacey
I have an amp that uses a rotary switch to change the output transformers different taps (ohms). What brand(s) are you all recommending for this type of switch. Being that the signal goes through the switch, I'm thinking it should of decent quality.
Thanks in advance...
Stacey
Lorlin make some quality switches at a more affordable price;
Available from Mouser, RS, Farnell etc.
For added reliability, purchase the 4pole, 3 way and link the poles in parallel.
Available from Mouser, RS, Farnell etc.
For added reliability, purchase the 4pole, 3 way and link the poles in parallel.
The switch will need to handle the amperage of the load: square root of (watt : load impedance). Add 30% for reliability. E
You suggest to have an amp that uses a rotary switch, so why are you asking for a rotary switch??
How often will you change taps?
Rotary switches for changing output taps are not well suited for this job, or very expensive.
Why not mounting some quality 4 mm (banana) connectors? Cheaper and better.
I'm with daanve about this. Banana connectors would be the most reliable. The only problem might be if you have the room to put them there or not. Also, before you could even consider using a switch, there is more that we would need to know in order to properly advise. It would just be easier to know the make and model of the product rather than 'I have this amp'.
The amp I have is from a boutique builder. His amp came in with QC issues and, according to him, the switch he used was a last minute, rush decision. More importantly, he wired the switch incorrectly (more QC issues). So, I bought another switch (Grayhill), and it was just too small for my old eyes, to solder up.
After all the going back and fourth, I asked for my money back; however, as I said, he is boutique builder, and really shouldn't be in business, as he is cash strapped. So, no money coming back to me. I can live with that...
The output transformers have taps for 8 ohm, 32 ohm, and 68 ohm. Each set of wires, comes off the transformer(s), to the switch, then, to a headphone jack. The 8 ohm tap does run directly to speaker binding post, as well.
What other information, is needed?
After all the going back and fourth, I asked for my money back; however, as I said, he is boutique builder, and really shouldn't be in business, as he is cash strapped. So, no money coming back to me. I can live with that...
The output transformers have taps for 8 ohm, 32 ohm, and 68 ohm. Each set of wires, comes off the transformer(s), to the switch, then, to a headphone jack. The 8 ohm tap does run directly to speaker binding post, as well.
What other information, is needed?
A schematic, which you are not likely to get. Tell him to stick building boutiques. E
For this application, a shorting switch (MBB) is not advised.
Yikes, I think that we all have stories like this one. For the building that I do, I only work with proven designs to stay away exactly from this kind of trouble. And if I do vary, I wouldn't trust to sell my possible mistakes to someone else. I guess that I am surprised by someone who can wind their own transformers for such a project. Entirely out of my league. I must ask though, that in the end, did it provide good sound? You may be able to make this work out for you.
Please post the schematic. What Grayhill switch you got?
I have the same problem, usually I soldered wires on the switch, then install it via Wago nuts.
Are there 3 separate windings or a single winding with multi taps?
At this point, I can't say whether I like it or not... First, I'm not a headphone person and I don't have a 2-channel system... This weekend, I'm getting together with a number of headphone guys and I will be having other listen to it. The others use amp like: Holo Audio, Eddie Current, Donald North, etc...
These guys will be able to give a good assessment. BTW, the 32 ohm tap is wired directly to the headphone jack. My headphones are Audeze LCD-2's. Based on what I'm hearing, I think the amp has a very good spatial soundstage. Resolution and detail is nice; however, the lower midrange sounds a little sunken... Hopefully, these other guys, can give an opinion, I can use and/or hear other headphones through the amp.
If I don't like what I hear, I'm probably going to make modifications to my likings. I really want to provide more of the tube glow, to the sound.
The amp uses EL84's, with 12ax7 driver tubes and a 5AR4 rectifier. It is a single ended amp.
These guys will be able to give a good assessment. BTW, the 32 ohm tap is wired directly to the headphone jack. My headphones are Audeze LCD-2's. Based on what I'm hearing, I think the amp has a very good spatial soundstage. Resolution and detail is nice; however, the lower midrange sounds a little sunken... Hopefully, these other guys, can give an opinion, I can use and/or hear other headphones through the amp.
If I don't like what I hear, I'm probably going to make modifications to my likings. I really want to provide more of the tube glow, to the sound.
The amp uses EL84's, with 12ax7 driver tubes and a 5AR4 rectifier. It is a single ended amp.
As you mention, I am not a headphone guy either, but there is something that I find headphones (with a good amp) invaluable for, and that is getting the best idea of what is actually recorded on an album. Some cases it is helpful for troubleshooting. No room acoustics to deal with and other possible interference. Of course it has to be 'right' to begin with, at least a little better than your hearing. No doubt that matching things like headphone impedance to the amp best as it can be, would be a factor as well. I built a headphone amp after so many let downs of other consumer amps out there, and actually won. Like you, I went tube. In my case 6GM8?? Dam, not totally sure now, but I can say it made nothing short of a big difference for my application.
What I am leading to is that it seems to make sense for you to search this out, and I don't think that you will be disappointed. Seems like there is often a correction to be made once the product comes out.
This is the switch, I have…. The problem with it, is the size. It’s just too small for me to solder. My skills aren’t good enough…
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Grayhill/50KS36-01-2-03S?qs=ls7QRyWmRk77q6KCuLZrOA==
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Grayhill/50KS36-01-2-03S?qs=ls7QRyWmRk77q6KCuLZrOA==
It is a slight possibility that there is an adapter board for this switch, making your job easier. You are right this would be a real challenge to wire up. Let me look around.
I like the concept. The problems with the switch I bought are:
The outputs are small and inside the inputs, not enough room
The inputs have a small hole and I can’t get the wire into the hole , so it would require me to solder next to the terminal. Not a good connection, I think.
The outputs are small and inside the inputs, not enough room
The inputs have a small hole and I can’t get the wire into the hole , so it would require me to solder next to the terminal. Not a good connection, I think.