Rockford vs JBL vs Soundstream

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zafira1981

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Joined 2004
#1
Hi,

I want to build a sub-woofer for my HT. My appartment room is small (3m x 3.5m). I think that a 10" sub will be good enough.

Looking what is available in my country I found these three speakers:


Rockford PS1410 (u$s152)

JBL CS10 (u$s54)

Soundstream Xstream XS10 (u$s146)

I know that car subwoofers are not the best, but I cant afford a REALLY good subwoofer.

I think that rockford will be the best, what do you think?
 
#2
I would try to get a home theatre subwoofer, as car subwoofers aren't as good for HT use.

And I have a room similar size - I recommend an 8" driver - there's also more choice.

What box size can you have?

The rockford models well at 101 litres, tuned to 23Hz.
 
#5
chris661 said:
I would try to get a home theatre subwoofer, as car subwoofers aren't as good for HT use.
Click to expand...


A driver is a driver. How you use it depends on your own applications. Many car drivers seem to be perfect for tapped horns according to the guys in the tapped horn thread and Tom Danley who used them in several of his own inventions.

Can't understand why you'd suggest an 8" sub over a 10" ? 😕

My advice to Zafira is to download winISD enter the various subs he has available into it and model each one against the other.

Also model one of the well recommended drivers such as a shiva or tempest and compare the curves to the drivers he has available.

For example the JBL GT4 'car' sub matches the response of the Adire Tempest 'home' sub right down to 18Hz, in a box half the size ! (I wonder how 2 of the 12's would compete against 1 of the 15's in similar sized boxes....)
 

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#6
Rob, I think the same than you, a driver is a driver.

I'm surprised about the results of the simulation with WinISD and the 8" sub. Are my calculations ok???

I put in the same graphic the screenshot with BOX tab and VENTS tab.
 

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#7
simulation with three diferent speakers that I can buy:

1: Rockford Fosgate 10", 152usd, 150W
2: JBL CS10 10", 53usd, 100W
3: JBL GTO 804 8", 130usd, 300W

It seems that the 8" GTO is performing much better than the rest!
 

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#8
Try tuning the JBL lower down, maybe around 18Hz. Will give a smoother curve. In the signal box type in the max wattage you think the driver will get and model the vent to have a low enough mach at that power.

I haven't got the jbl's specs in my winISD database so cannot put a screenshot up right now.

Cheers
Rob.
 
#9
In the signal box type in the max wattage you think the driver will get and model the vent to have a low enough mach at that power.
Click to expand...

I cant find the "signal box" that you're talking about. Maybe because I have WinISD Beta 0.44 and you have a newer version?

With 18hz, i have a smoother response but -5db@20hz 🙁

In the attach, I put the t/s parameters of the speaker.

I really apreciate your help 😀

thanks,

Jorge.
 

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#10
Hi again.

I'd still go for the biggest driver you can get that models well.

Here's a pic of the CS10 how I'd do it.

You can see the version of winISD I'm using at the top, and also the signal tab on the right hand box. You can enter the power applied to the driver and watch the mach change in the 'rear port velocity' window.

Have a search on 'room gain' to see why it's not bad to have a falling response, especially in a small room.

Rob.
 

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#13
RobWells said:
Hi again.

I'd still go for the biggest driver you can get that models well.

Here's a pic of the CS10 how I'd do it.

You can see the version of winISD I'm using at the top, and also the signal tab on the right hand box. You can enter the power applied to the driver and watch the mach change in the 'rear port velocity' window.

Have a search on 'room gain' to see why it's not bad to have a falling response, especially in a small room.

Rob.
Click to expand...

OK, I will look for "room gain". I cant see any pic, did you attached it?

If I have to go to the biggest model I can get, I have a 18" RCF L18P540 sub, it's really cool but it's giant for my new appartment, I used it in a 4m x 4m x 4m room with wooden floor some years ago, but now for this room I think it's useless, because of the bigger box that will result of making a bass-reflex for that speaker.
 
#15
zafira1981 said:


If I have to go to the biggest model I can get, I have a 18" RCF L18P540 sub, it's really cool but it's giant for my new appartment, I used it in a 4m x 4m x 4m room with wooden floor some years ago, but now for this room I think it's useless, because of the bigger box that will result of making a bass-reflex for that speaker.
Click to expand...


Look into the possibility of a 20" cube with the rcf driver and a 'linkwitz transform'

May work well for you, a search and some modelling will tell..

Good luck with your project,
Rob.
 
#16
I advise an 8" sub over a 10" because there is more choice.

Try changing port tunings to see how things change - you never know what you'll end up with.

Overall, I'd agree with Rob - look up how your room size will affect the response - you might find a different driver will do better than expected.

I'd (personally) make a sealed box, then try it, to see if the room gain will flatten the lower end response. If not, make a Linkwitz Transform circuit, as long as you don't mind the loss of a few decibels, to make deeper bass.
 
#18
RobWells said:
Look into the possibility of a 20" cube with the rcf driver and a 'linkwitz transform'

May work well for you, a search and some modelling will tell..

Good luck with your project,
Rob.
Click to expand...
OK!! I will do some research. thanks

chris661 said:
I advise an 8" sub over a 10" because there is more choice.

Try changing port tunings to see how things change - you never know what you'll end up with.

Overall, I'd agree with Rob - look up how your room size will affect the response - you might find a different driver will do better than expected.

I'd (personally) make a sealed box, then try it, to see if the room gain will flatten the lower end response. If not, make a Linkwitz Transform circuit, as long as you don't mind the loss of a few decibels, to make deeper bass.
Click to expand...
It's a good idea, specially with a small driver (not so much money on wood, not too much work)

I think that I will try more than just one enclosure.


Falkon212 said:
Check this driver out: http://www.creativesound.ca/details.php?model=SDX10

It's a very nice HT driver for only $139 US. I can almost guarantee that it will outperform the drivers you originally listed. It models well in a relatively small enclosure (45-60L), and is capable of great extension down to ~22Hz.
Click to expand...
I will love to have one of that drivers but in Argentina its difficult to get one... that's why I'm looking for a car driver.

thanks!
 
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