Hello! First time poster here and limited knowledge of amp circuitry so go easy 🙂
Just pulled my RF Punch 150HD because one of the channels has tons of static and not much music. Opening it up, I found two issues.
It looks like the HB - PIM has seen better days, and for some reason there is a missing (don't know what) in position CR9.
1) Was going to call Freemans' Stereo since I've seen people post that for replacement $40 PIMs. Any tips on replacement or where else to get cheaper??
2) Why would someone have taken out CR9? Does it's next door neighbor CR10 look like it's in bad shape? What are these and where do I buy them?
3) Anything else to look at prior to ordering and attempting repair?
Thanks for any help!
Just pulled my RF Punch 150HD because one of the channels has tons of static and not much music. Opening it up, I found two issues.
It looks like the HB - PIM has seen better days, and for some reason there is a missing (don't know what) in position CR9.
1) Was going to call Freemans' Stereo since I've seen people post that for replacement $40 PIMs. Any tips on replacement or where else to get cheaper??
2) Why would someone have taken out CR9? Does it's next door neighbor CR10 look like it's in bad shape? What are these and where do I buy them?
3) Anything else to look at prior to ordering and attempting repair?
Thanks for any help!
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1N5366B, Zener diode, Digi-key or mouser if you want to buy them. I never replace them. I take them out and leave them out.
Look for broken legs on all of the heatsink mounted components.
Look for broken legs on all of the heatsink mounted components.
Thanks!
I'll remove the Zener at CR10 then since it looks like a bad solder job, no?
Any tips on removing the HB-PIM board? So many solder joints--what is best way to desolder it.
I'll remove the Zener at CR10 then since it looks like a bad solder job, no?
Any tips on removing the HB-PIM board? So many solder joints--what is best way to desolder it.
I saw R6 was burned. IT may have or at one time had blown power supply FETs.
The solder on R10 isn't ideal but wouldn't cause any problems.
ChipQuik is generally recommended for desoldering boards with lots of pins but probably won't be needed here if you have a good desoldering pump (DS017 edsyn). Be careful not to damage the pads on the board when desoldering. Apply heat more to the terminal sticking through the board. Try to avoid putting pressure on the board with the tip of the iron.
The solder on R10 isn't ideal but wouldn't cause any problems.
ChipQuik is generally recommended for desoldering boards with lots of pins but probably won't be needed here if you have a good desoldering pump (DS017 edsyn). Be careful not to damage the pads on the board when desoldering. Apply heat more to the terminal sticking through the board. Try to avoid putting pressure on the board with the tip of the iron.
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