As usual anyone with some experience will laugh at this audiophile stuff as all too often it is easy-to-apply convenience stuff just giving one the idea of having done something useful in just a few minutes. Maybe it gives a slight improvement but why not pay serious attention to the issue when a device is not designed "the right way"? I have owned devices and SMPS that radiated so much that other devices stopped operating, tuners not receiving etc. This asks for more than a sheet of absorbing material.
It makes indeed sense to use ferrite beads and adequate decoupling with special attention to current loops. It also can make sense to shield IC's but then preferably with heatsinks glued to the chips not by covering them with some sheet only resulting in higher internal temperature (often heatsinks are already omitted because of cost).
In todays environment the air is chockfull of HF/RF and the device itself is also often generating HF/RF radiating through the device. It is therefor a must to use metal casings and pay attention to RF creep-in and creep-out. Sometimes it is also wise to create separate sections like one used to do in old times with tuners. The very same materials used in analog tuners are now the best for shielding and creating separate sections. So effectively a return of RF techniques in digital audio. This is not the most easy part in DIY audio, as a DIYer it is trial and error as not many have the equipment to test what improvements have been realized but keeping to basic techniques will be better than building digital gear in wooden or plastic casings for instance. Multiple separate power supply sections, mains filters, beads are among the better measures.
It makes indeed sense to use ferrite beads and adequate decoupling with special attention to current loops. It also can make sense to shield IC's but then preferably with heatsinks glued to the chips not by covering them with some sheet only resulting in higher internal temperature (often heatsinks are already omitted because of cost).
In todays environment the air is chockfull of HF/RF and the device itself is also often generating HF/RF radiating through the device. It is therefor a must to use metal casings and pay attention to RF creep-in and creep-out. Sometimes it is also wise to create separate sections like one used to do in old times with tuners. The very same materials used in analog tuners are now the best for shielding and creating separate sections. So effectively a return of RF techniques in digital audio. This is not the most easy part in DIY audio, as a DIYer it is trial and error as not many have the equipment to test what improvements have been realized but keeping to basic techniques will be better than building digital gear in wooden or plastic casings for instance. Multiple separate power supply sections, mains filters, beads are among the better measures.
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500-5000 MHz absorption will block communications RF, but wont do much for a smps
A ground plane is the best protection
A ground plane is the best protection