some URLs or tips for ignorant me-how to make digital part (read- DAC) of old ReVox B225 little better ?
nonos?
how to ?
btw-it's SAA 7000 + SAA 7030 + TDA1540
yes,I searched but-honestly-I am just tired wandering through all related threads....
nonos?
how to ?
btw-it's SAA 7000 + SAA 7030 + TDA1540
yes,I searched but-honestly-I am just tired wandering through all related threads....
Hi Zen Mod,
Dead end chip set, very similar to my Nak OMS-7. Surgery time. I am attempting the same thing you are.
-Chris
Dead end chip set, very similar to my Nak OMS-7. Surgery time. I am attempting the same thing you are.
-Chris
anatech said:Hi Zen Mod,
Dead end chip set, very similar to my Nak OMS-7. Surgery time. I am attempting the same thing you are.
-Chris
hehe
even venerable,just too nice toy to abandon .....😉
I'm looking for non-os surgery and certainly some butchery after TDA1541.....those 8 legged fuses are like bugs.....I'll replace them with something simpler fer sure 😉....who knows,mebbe even some repeater coils on output ,just to add some spice


I'm still thinking of taking the RF signal and feeding it into another pcb in parallel (with buffers of course). Using a more standard chip set I could get there. All you need is a dremel with a cut off wheel and a car CD. Route the RF in and take your digital signals out. Taaa Daaa!
-Chris
rfbrw said:
exactly what I need....I also have another TDA1541 spare........😉
TNX!
Hi rfbrw,
Thank you. I read that thread, but I want to go into BB land. PCM1702 would be my flavour. I plan to leave the servos functioning as they are for now (7020 stays).
-Chris
Thank you. I read that thread, but I want to go into BB land. PCM1702 would be my flavour. I plan to leave the servos functioning as they are for now (7020 stays).
-Chris
anatech said:Hi rfbrw,
Thank you. I read that thread, but I want to go into BB land. PCM1702 would be my flavour. I plan to leave the servos functioning as they are for now (7020 stays).
-Chris
Do you mean the SAA7030 digital filter ?
Hi rfbrw,
No, I did make an error though. I meant the SAA7000, SAA7011 and 7020. Not unless I create another clock source. The SAA7000 is the master clock for the system.
-Chris
No, I did make an error though. I meant the SAA7000, SAA7011 and 7020. Not unless I create another clock source. The SAA7000 is the master clock for the system.
-Chris
anatech said:Hi rfbrw,
No, I did make an error though. I meant the SAA7000, SAA7011 and 7020. Not unless I create another clock source. The SAA7000 is the master clock for the system.
-Chris
So SAA7000 to 2x PCM1702 or SAA7000 to SAA7030 to 2x PCM1702 ?
reference CD part No. 46241?????
boyz and girlz,does someone know any data about "reference CD part No. 46241" mentioned in ReVox service manual ?
today I checked "power" in laser diode and I almost fell from my chair-just to conclude after that that measured voltage across one resistor is strictly related on sort of cd playing in that moment......
what exactly I need is -what is track No.1 on this CD....if I know that,mebbe I can make one easy burnie 🙂
boyz and girlz,does someone know any data about "reference CD part No. 46241" mentioned in ReVox service manual ?
today I checked "power" in laser diode and I almost fell from my chair-just to conclude after that that measured voltage across one resistor is strictly related on sort of cd playing in that moment......
what exactly I need is -what is track No.1 on this CD....if I know that,mebbe I can make one easy burnie 🙂
anatech said:Philips 5 is the reference disc. The green $200 CDN one.
-Chris
ya kidding me?!
all my ReVox and Philips players are not worth 200CDN !
(lemme see B225,CD303,CD630,Grundig CD3000 and another one for which I can't remember numbers...)
no way to find out what's track one?
Hi Zen Mod,
It has nothing to do with the information on track 1. It's pretty cheesy stuff. I am so sick of it on mine. I have 5A as well ($250). It has printed defects on it.
The important thing is the reflectivity and pit shape. That determines the strength of the reflected signal. I have no clue what would be close. I just use the Philips disc. Denon did a similar thing with CA-1094, but it only cost me $20. Better music too.
-Chris
It has nothing to do with the information on track 1. It's pretty cheesy stuff. I am so sick of it on mine. I have 5A as well ($250). It has printed defects on it.
The important thing is the reflectivity and pit shape. That determines the strength of the reflected signal. I have no clue what would be close. I just use the Philips disc. Denon did a similar thing with CA-1094, but it only cost me $20. Better music too.
-Chris
anatech said:Hi Zen Mod,
It has nothing to do with the information on track 1. It's pretty cheesy stuff. I am so sick of it on mine. I have 5A as well ($250). It has printed defects on it.
The important thing is the reflectivity and pit shape. That determines the strength of the reflected signal. I have no clue what would be close. I just use the Philips disc. Denon did a similar thing with CA-1094, but it only cost me $20. Better music too.
-Chris
Tnx Cris 😉
Hi Zen Mod,
Sorry for the bad news.
My Disc 5 is low in HF. So I have to remember it reads high.
-Chris
Sorry for the bad news.
My Disc 5 is low in HF. So I have to remember it reads high.
-Chris
Great advice. Who have work with it and can post first experience reports?
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