I have aquired a stereo 20 in pretty much mint condition.One resistorchanged. I would like this to be my "daily driver", but i am also sensible to the prospect of its value increasing as we both get older. I figure that some filter caps under the chassis would be aceptable, but really, ALL of the componets could use upgrading. The coupling caps and all those carbon comp resistors.....
Would this affect its "collectability"? I also thought about keeping all the old components for the option of puttting them all back in if needed.
I also have the point one pre but was going to sell that.
Any input would be very greatly appreciated
Would this affect its "collectability"? I also thought about keeping all the old components for the option of puttting them all back in if needed.
I also have the point one pre but was going to sell that.
Any input would be very greatly appreciated
It is named LEAK not without a reason ;0) -all of it's coupling caps leak terribly and they need to be changed. The truth is if you want to preserve it's collector value you will have to compromise a little on sound. This is what I did with mine.
I replaced all PIO coupling caps with NOS Sprague Vitamin Q's . You can use Russian PIO's as well or Jensen/ Audio NOte (expensive and you unlikely to recover the cost when you will need to sell) replace drifted resistors with AB or carbon foil only when really needed. Replace EL 84 bypass electrolitycs. I kept original filter caps just switched them in place as the one closer to rectifier gets beat up more. Keep original components. If you're planning on keeping the amp for a long time and get old with it well changing components in that chassis is a breeze so you can do whatever you want ,i.e put Rikken resistors and Jensen /audio note oils along with good electrolitycs. I didn't think it sounded that good to age with it but I didn't wait long enough to break in those PIO caps (and they do need a couple hundred hrs to sound good)
I replaced all PIO coupling caps with NOS Sprague Vitamin Q's . You can use Russian PIO's as well or Jensen/ Audio NOte (expensive and you unlikely to recover the cost when you will need to sell) replace drifted resistors with AB or carbon foil only when really needed. Replace EL 84 bypass electrolitycs. I kept original filter caps just switched them in place as the one closer to rectifier gets beat up more. Keep original components. If you're planning on keeping the amp for a long time and get old with it well changing components in that chassis is a breeze so you can do whatever you want ,i.e put Rikken resistors and Jensen /audio note oils along with good electrolitycs. I didn't think it sounded that good to age with it but I didn't wait long enough to break in those PIO caps (and they do need a couple hundred hrs to sound good)
Just like a car, "daily driver" and "original collectable" are mutually exclusive terms.
Make your mind up - is it an enjoyable anachronism, or an investment piece? Once you've done that, your path becomes clearer - you are going to either rebuild for reliable and enjoyable use, or search out a controlled environment storage solution and listen to your I-pod 😉
A Stereo 20, while collectible, shouldn't suffer any loss of value if it has been sympathetically restored to new condition electrically. You could keep the old components if you were really serious.
The big gold power supply caps are the worst- they are likely to already be leaking goo - look at the bases of them and at worst will short out, taking your rectifier and power transformer with them.
What a lot of people using vintage gear go for is vintage looking but with modern passive components for reliability. For example change all caps & resistors but leave nothing that is visible on the outside- disconnect all the existing power supply caps and fit small ones underneath, but keep the cans on the chassis. Replace valve sockets that are rickety/corroded but use vintage ones where possible.
I have totally butchered my Stereo 20 but it was tatty anyway. Sounds cool though 🙂
The big gold power supply caps are the worst- they are likely to already be leaking goo - look at the bases of them and at worst will short out, taking your rectifier and power transformer with them.
What a lot of people using vintage gear go for is vintage looking but with modern passive components for reliability. For example change all caps & resistors but leave nothing that is visible on the outside- disconnect all the existing power supply caps and fit small ones underneath, but keep the cans on the chassis. Replace valve sockets that are rickety/corroded but use vintage ones where possible.
I have totally butchered my Stereo 20 but it was tatty anyway. Sounds cool though 🙂
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