Hi, just want to know, I need to respray a Arcam FMJ P7 power amp, huge amount of scratches everywhere, chipped paint etc etc
I know how to spray it, but, what can i put over the letters? I need to do the preamp that goes with it also, so covering up the "CD" - "AUX" etc etc but a tape so when I peel it off it's not going to take the lettering off with it...
I know how to spray it, but, what can i put over the letters? I need to do the preamp that goes with it also, so covering up the "CD" - "AUX" etc etc but a tape so when I peel it off it's not going to take the lettering off with it...
Isn't that what they make the blue painters tape for? It's designed to not be super sticky unlike most tapes.
BillWojo
BillWojo
Scale modellers use Tamiya masking tape which is a very low tack tape.
It comes in a selection of widths e.g. Tamiya 300087030 Masking Tape with Dispenser, 6 mm x 18 m: Amazon.co.uk: Toys & Games
It comes in a selection of widths e.g. Tamiya 300087030 Masking Tape with Dispenser, 6 mm x 18 m: Amazon.co.uk: Toys & Games
Try using a very fine painters brush with some washable paint and fill in the lettering, let it dry then spray over it. You will be able to wipe away both layers of paint on the lettering after.
Do a test on something else first to make sure though.
You may have to make a slice with an exacto knife through the real paints skin to let the dampness through to the washable paint.
Then it will release.
Do a test on something else first to make sure though.
You may have to make a slice with an exacto knife through the real paints skin to let the dampness through to the washable paint.
Then it will release.
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This most probably will not yield the expected results, because the surface tension and the „stickyness“ of the paint will just override those tiny structures. Which means that the color wont just peel off from those tiny letters, it‘ll either just cover it, or the color will splinter/tear off, etc.
either use something like scotch 244 (the tamya masking tape is probably better suited) and overspray the faceplate in very very thin layers, or just touch it up. Make sure you have the faceplate cleaned very thoroughly. apply the tape as close to the labels as possible.
If you know a good car-painter, ask him for the best possible hue/color shade.
Both methods aren‘t perfect.
If you want/need a really perfect result, remake it completely:
- scan the faceplate in the highest resolution you have
- touch it up to have a perfect template (with nothing but the graphics).
- or rebuild it with a grafic-editor (illustrator etc)
- get a perfect paint-job done
- apply the digital template as screen-print or something.
either use something like scotch 244 (the tamya masking tape is probably better suited) and overspray the faceplate in very very thin layers, or just touch it up. Make sure you have the faceplate cleaned very thoroughly. apply the tape as close to the labels as possible.
If you know a good car-painter, ask him for the best possible hue/color shade.
Both methods aren‘t perfect.
If you want/need a really perfect result, remake it completely:
- scan the faceplate in the highest resolution you have
- touch it up to have a perfect template (with nothing but the graphics).
- or rebuild it with a grafic-editor (illustrator etc)
- get a perfect paint-job done
- apply the digital template as screen-print or something.
Painting something like rubber cement over the lettering could work well (if you are careful). A low-tack cement (like Milliners solution) will lift off well. Whatever you decide, do tests on a piece of scrap painted metal to get your technique right before working on the final piece.
If you are wanting a very high standard of finish, you will need to sand-out the scratches and chips, or use a filler. Otherwise, they will be visible in your new paint finish.
If you are wanting a very high standard of finish, you will need to sand-out the scratches and chips, or use a filler. Otherwise, they will be visible in your new paint finish.