Hey, it sounds like the tweeter in one of my dad's Infinity 2000.6 floorstanding speakers has gone bad. What would you recommend replacing it with?
Something similar I would think...😀
You'd better have that waveguided broken tweeter out and have a look at it. Check it's not just a loose wire of course. It should read about 6 ohms DC if it's intact. Best to replace as a pair, of course.
Gonna be tricky to fit another one unless the mounting screws are particularly easy. Level matching will need thought too, but it's a standard 3rd order filter by the look of it.
This is a 94mm Morel CAT 298 soft dome. It will run without the aluminium mounting plate:
Screw holes are fairly standard I think. Diameter of dome will be an issue too.
You'd better have that waveguided broken tweeter out and have a look at it. Check it's not just a loose wire of course. It should read about 6 ohms DC if it's intact. Best to replace as a pair, of course.
Gonna be tricky to fit another one unless the mounting screws are particularly easy. Level matching will need thought too, but it's a standard 3rd order filter by the look of it.
This is a 94mm Morel CAT 298 soft dome. It will run without the aluminium mounting plate:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Screw holes are fairly standard I think. Diameter of dome will be an issue too.
Ok, we pulled the speaker apart, and the current tweeter has the following numbers on it:
331063-001
10
Maybe 10 is the impedance? Unfortunately, his voltmeter isn't accurate, and is pretty much all or nothing, so I can't tell how much (if any) resistance is in the tweeter.
Screw holes are about 2 inches/5mm apart (2 screws).
331063-001
10
Maybe 10 is the impedance? Unfortunately, his voltmeter isn't accurate, and is pretty much all or nothing, so I can't tell how much (if any) resistance is in the tweeter.
Screw holes are about 2 inches/5mm apart (2 screws).
I can only help you as much as you help me. 🙂
I need to know what the mounting on the back of the plastic baffle looks like to guess what will fit.
I need to know the diameter of the dome, and roughly how we are going to fit another tweeter. Efficiency will be a bit of a guess. This is an MTM so it's gonna be loud.
Photos please:
ImageShack® - Online Photo and Video Hosting
Or upload them as JPEGs to diyaudio with the paperclip thingie in the reply box.
You can see that I am getting to the main issues faster than you are, so you gotta work harder. I could charge for my time. 😀
I need to know what the mounting on the back of the plastic baffle looks like to guess what will fit.
I need to know the diameter of the dome, and roughly how we are going to fit another tweeter. Efficiency will be a bit of a guess. This is an MTM so it's gonna be loud.
Photos please:
ImageShack® - Online Photo and Video Hosting
Or upload them as JPEGs to diyaudio with the paperclip thingie in the reply box.
You can see that I am getting to the main issues faster than you are, so you gotta work harder. I could charge for my time. 😀
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Hey, thanks for your help so far.
It seems the problem is not with the tweeter itself. I swapped tweeters, and the working tweater on the problematic speaker was still having issues (sounded muffled/garbled, fading in and out). Must be something with the electronics in the speaker itself. Bad capacitor, maybe?
I swapped the left and right lines, so it's not something in the receiver.
Just need to figure out how to get the rest of the speaker disassembled...
It seems the problem is not with the tweeter itself. I swapped tweeters, and the working tweater on the problematic speaker was still having issues (sounded muffled/garbled, fading in and out). Must be something with the electronics in the speaker itself. Bad capacitor, maybe?
I swapped the left and right lines, so it's not something in the receiver.
Just need to figure out how to get the rest of the speaker disassembled...
You would have great difficulty replacing this tweeter, as the way it was designed was to mate specifically from the rear into the back of the baffle molding. It was also quite high sensitivity, again making it difficult to find a match. I should know...I designed it...
Anyway, from your investigations it would seem that it is not the tweeter that is at fault. It could well be one of the capacitors in the xover. You should try getting spare capacitors and put them in parallel with each existing capacitor in turn to see if the signal returns.
Andrew
Anyway, from your investigations it would seem that it is not the tweeter that is at fault. It could well be one of the capacitors in the xover. You should try getting spare capacitors and put them in parallel with each existing capacitor in turn to see if the signal returns.
Andrew
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