Member
Joined 2003
Hi,
I am interested in replacing the drivers in my JBL N26II speakers. These speakers don't sound horrible, but they lack "detail". I was thinking of building entirely new cabinets, with new speakers, but after dismantling the JBL speakers, I don't think I could do any better job at it with my limited amount of tools.
The cabinets are 3/4" mdf (well, at least the front of them are), and have some insulation material, a lovely 3000 Hz crossover, and a port that is flared at both ends. Exterior dimentions are 433 mm high, 229 mm wide, and 253 mm deep. Somewhere around 16 litres volume I think. It is hard to measure the port, because of the flared ends, but it looks to be about 40 mm diameter, and about 95 mm long.
I want to spend around $200 Canadian dollars on the replacement speakers. Looking at parts express my fist choice of speakers is the Peerless 850122 CSX 6 1/2" Woofer, and the Peerless 811815 1" Dome Tweeter. I am wondering if anyone has had any experience with these drivers, and how they will sound in the cabinet above. Would it be worth it for me to spend the extra money on the Peerless 850439 HDS 6 1/2" Woofer. Would you have any other recommendations for speakers besides the Peerless one's? I would like to keep both the woofers and the tweeters the same brand name.
Also, if anyone knows of a Web-site simmilar to Parts Express, where I can buy OEM drivers that is based in Canada, that would be mighty helpful.
Thank-you in advance for your help.
I am interested in replacing the drivers in my JBL N26II speakers. These speakers don't sound horrible, but they lack "detail". I was thinking of building entirely new cabinets, with new speakers, but after dismantling the JBL speakers, I don't think I could do any better job at it with my limited amount of tools.
The cabinets are 3/4" mdf (well, at least the front of them are), and have some insulation material, a lovely 3000 Hz crossover, and a port that is flared at both ends. Exterior dimentions are 433 mm high, 229 mm wide, and 253 mm deep. Somewhere around 16 litres volume I think. It is hard to measure the port, because of the flared ends, but it looks to be about 40 mm diameter, and about 95 mm long.
I want to spend around $200 Canadian dollars on the replacement speakers. Looking at parts express my fist choice of speakers is the Peerless 850122 CSX 6 1/2" Woofer, and the Peerless 811815 1" Dome Tweeter. I am wondering if anyone has had any experience with these drivers, and how they will sound in the cabinet above. Would it be worth it for me to spend the extra money on the Peerless 850439 HDS 6 1/2" Woofer. Would you have any other recommendations for speakers besides the Peerless one's? I would like to keep both the woofers and the tweeters the same brand name.
Also, if anyone knows of a Web-site simmilar to Parts Express, where I can buy OEM drivers that is based in Canada, that would be mighty helpful.
Thank-you in advance for your help.
You might be better off reworking the crossover before you try replacing drivers. The drivers in these speakers are not that bad but the crossover components are dirt cheap.
I am just finishing up a project on my JBL S38's where I replaced all the electrolytic caps with Poly's, replaced the bypass caps with Audiocap Theta Film & foils, and replaced the cast sand resistors with Mills non-inductive resistors. I also installed a deflex pad behind the woofer & in the midrange enclosure.
I haven't listened to them a whole lot yet because I accidentally damaged one of the tweeters & am waiting for a replacement, but so far I am pleased with the results.
Mark
I am just finishing up a project on my JBL S38's where I replaced all the electrolytic caps with Poly's, replaced the bypass caps with Audiocap Theta Film & foils, and replaced the cast sand resistors with Mills non-inductive resistors. I also installed a deflex pad behind the woofer & in the midrange enclosure.
I haven't listened to them a whole lot yet because I accidentally damaged one of the tweeters & am waiting for a replacement, but so far I am pleased with the results.
Mark
Member
Joined 2003
I don't know if this is the same as the speakers you have, but the crossover network on these speakers is built onto the wire terminal plate on the rear of the speaker. Would it be wise of me to simply replace these parts with more fancy parts, or would I be better off to print a new circuit. I guess what I am worried about is that a different part will be a different size, and won't fit onto this compact circuit. I do have access to a circuit printing machine at school, but I will have to wait about a month to use it, as everyone is cramming to get their technical thesis projects done right now.
From what I can see, the caps are a 4uF and an 8uF + or - 5% made by Elytone. The long inductor is an iron core, and the other is air core. I don't know what size, but a few simple calculations could find that out, since I do know the crossover frequency is 3kHz. Here's some pictures to give you an idea of this contraption.
From what I can see, the caps are a 4uF and an 8uF + or - 5% made by Elytone. The long inductor is an iron core, and the other is air core. I don't know what size, but a few simple calculations could find that out, since I do know the crossover frequency is 3kHz. Here's some pictures to give you an idea of this contraption.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Member
Joined 2003
Some options
Hi, I have the all-weather version of the N26, and am very happy with the sound they provide out on the patio. You could also consider upgrading the x-over components as previously suggested.
If you can go a little higher, the Okara II($300+DIY cabinets)from NorthCreek music, seem to be a outstanding bookshelf. I'm looking forward to building them as my next project. You could sell the JBL's to help raise the needed funds.
A kit containing everything you need might suit you well, as a lack of tools can upset projects.
If this is your 1st project, I'd go with a proven design, as picking random drivers is a hit and mostly miss game. Although something like WinISD beta is free for download, and fun to play with. Throw the T/S parameters from your chosen drivers into it and voila
The BR-1's from PE are a great deal, but do need a fare amount of juice to power them.
Isn't there a partsconnexion or something, out of Canada?
Hi, I have the all-weather version of the N26, and am very happy with the sound they provide out on the patio. You could also consider upgrading the x-over components as previously suggested.
If you can go a little higher, the Okara II($300+DIY cabinets)from NorthCreek music, seem to be a outstanding bookshelf. I'm looking forward to building them as my next project. You could sell the JBL's to help raise the needed funds.
A kit containing everything you need might suit you well, as a lack of tools can upset projects.
If this is your 1st project, I'd go with a proven design, as picking random drivers is a hit and mostly miss game. Although something like WinISD beta is free for download, and fun to play with. Throw the T/S parameters from your chosen drivers into it and voila
The BR-1's from PE are a great deal, but do need a fare amount of juice to power them.
Isn't there a partsconnexion or something, out of Canada?
That looks similar to the crossover in my speaker although mine was a 3 way bypassed design so it had many more components.
It should be pretty easy to remove the old components and install new ones. I used Mills resistors and Solen capacitors.
A quick search @ parts express gives:
Mills 2 Ohm resistor $3.50
Solen 3.9 µF cap $2.42
Solen 8.2 µF cap $3.91
Total cost ~ $10 per speaker.
If you want to get fancy you could try a better cap on the tweeter, especially since it isn't a bypassed design. The trouble is film & foil caps get big and expensive in a hurry.
You should be able to fit these parts on the boards ok - the resistor will be no trouble but the caps may be a tight fit. Still, I think you will be able to get them on there.
I would not use a finished parts express crossover because 1) you will get better parts if you do it yourself and more importantly 2) the crossover in your speaker is designed for those exact drivers. Who knows what the parts express crossover is designed for?
Mark
It should be pretty easy to remove the old components and install new ones. I used Mills resistors and Solen capacitors.
A quick search @ parts express gives:
Mills 2 Ohm resistor $3.50
Solen 3.9 µF cap $2.42
Solen 8.2 µF cap $3.91
Total cost ~ $10 per speaker.
If you want to get fancy you could try a better cap on the tweeter, especially since it isn't a bypassed design. The trouble is film & foil caps get big and expensive in a hurry.
You should be able to fit these parts on the boards ok - the resistor will be no trouble but the caps may be a tight fit. Still, I think you will be able to get them on there.
I would not use a finished parts express crossover because 1) you will get better parts if you do it yourself and more importantly 2) the crossover in your speaker is designed for those exact drivers. Who knows what the parts express crossover is designed for?
Mark
Member
Joined 2003
Thanks for your comments. I think I will order some parts and replace this crossover network, as it is a cheap and easy thing to do. Mark, how much of an improvement did you notice when modifying your JBL speakers? If they don't make much of a noticeable improvement for me, I think I will wait until my school semester is over, and I am back at work so I can afford to build something from scratch.
Thanks also for telling me about partsconnexion, they don't seem to sell speakers, but they do sell a whole lot of fancy components for building crossovers, etc.
Thanks also for telling me about partsconnexion, they don't seem to sell speakers, but they do sell a whole lot of fancy components for building crossovers, etc.
Here is a link to JBL N36II Technical Service Manual . It has all the info you should need about the speakers you have right now. In it you will find the x-over schematics and various other info on your speakers. I hope this helps.
Cheers,
Zach
Cheers,
Zach
Member
Joined 2003
DcibeL said:
It is hard to say for sure yet because I dented in a tweeter on final reassembly and the replacement hasn't arrived yet (due on Monday).
For the small amount of listening I did do before I broke the tweeter I would say that it helped everything sound more real, particularly horns and wind instruments. I am using these speakers in my HT setup and I would say that movie sounds were more real as well.
I will give more detailed results after I have them working again and can listen to a broader range of material. Still, for $20 I don't see how you can go wrong.
Mark
So did you decide to try to mod your speakers?
I have had my modded S38's back together for a while now and I am quite pleased with the results. Vocals are clearer, imaging is tighter, and everything sounds more real. I feel that it was money ($200) well spend, although if I had it to do over again I probably would not do the deflex pads behind the woofer.
Mark
I have had my modded S38's back together for a while now and I am quite pleased with the results. Vocals are clearer, imaging is tighter, and everything sounds more real. I feel that it was money ($200) well spend, although if I had it to do over again I probably would not do the deflex pads behind the woofer.
Mark
Member
Joined 2003
I had a search for parts, and the parts you suggested seemed to be very widely used, and decently priced, so I went with the Solen caps and the Mills resistors. The parts are in the mail, should be here in about a week. I got nailed on shipping though, it cost nearly as much as the parts themselves!
When they do arrive, I will replace one of the crossover networks, and do a side by side comparison to see just how much improvement there is. Until then, my most recent mod that I am quite pleased with was to put an old cutting board under my subwoofer. I have the 10" JBL subwoofer to go with the speakers (PB10). It's a downfiring sub, and placing a block of wood under it made quite a difference over just aiming it at the carpet. Better sound for the low price of free! Can't complain with that.
When they do arrive, I will replace one of the crossover networks, and do a side by side comparison to see just how much improvement there is. Until then, my most recent mod that I am quite pleased with was to put an old cutting board under my subwoofer. I have the 10" JBL subwoofer to go with the speakers (PB10). It's a downfiring sub, and placing a block of wood under it made quite a difference over just aiming it at the carpet. Better sound for the low price of free! Can't complain with that.
I am very interested in what you feel the results of this mod are.
Do you have a hot glue gun? I used one to glue down the parts before soldering. This helps damp vibration and also holds everything down neatly while you are soldering.
Mark
Do you have a hot glue gun? I used one to glue down the parts before soldering. This helps damp vibration and also holds everything down neatly while you are soldering.
Mark
Member
Joined 2003
I actually find that sticky tac works just great for holding parts down while you solder. You can remove it afterwords (you have to wait for it to cool down, because sticky tac gets gooey when its hot), so if you ever need to replace a broken part, you dont have to work real hard to cut the glue off so it can be removed from the board.
The parts came today, but I wasn't at home to recieve them, so I will have to drive to the post office tomorrow and pick them up. So expect some results of what I think of the new crossovers tomorrow. It better be worth it, because it did cost a little more then what I had originally expected. Somehow $20 USD turned into $56 CAN with shipping and taxes! Hopefully it will be an equal, if not greater improvement to my free mod of placing the block of wood under my subwoofer 🙂
I will also replace the speaker cable inside the box with the same fancy monster cable I have connected to the speakers. This may not really improve anything, but I just think that my high quality cable is not being used to its full potential because of the 1 foot of crap cable inside the speaker box.
The parts came today, but I wasn't at home to recieve them, so I will have to drive to the post office tomorrow and pick them up. So expect some results of what I think of the new crossovers tomorrow. It better be worth it, because it did cost a little more then what I had originally expected. Somehow $20 USD turned into $56 CAN with shipping and taxes! Hopefully it will be an equal, if not greater improvement to my free mod of placing the block of wood under my subwoofer 🙂
I will also replace the speaker cable inside the box with the same fancy monster cable I have connected to the speakers. This may not really improve anything, but I just think that my high quality cable is not being used to its full potential because of the 1 foot of crap cable inside the speaker box.
Member
Joined 2003
Speakers are now modified! The first thing I said when I opened up the box of caps was "holy jeebus those are big!". I had to bend the leads into weird shapes, so that the caps were held off to the side of the board, because they definately wouldn't fit in the same spot the old caps were.
Now that I have had a little time to listen to the speakers, I do think they sound a fair bit better. Not quite as great an improvement as I was hoping for, but I'm happy with them. They've lost their muddy sound, and that's really all I wanted to accomplish. The tweeters sound a little stronger then before, maybe a little overpowering at high volume. I guess this is most likely due to the switch from a 1.8 ohm resistor to a 2.0 ohm.
Thank you again for your help with this. My next audio project won't happen for quite some time, because I don't really have much time on my hands until I am done with school. I am planning to strip my broken Logitech z560 amp, and make some nice little amps from the TDA7293 chips, and maybe do something a little more interesting with the Tangband speakers from them.
Now that I have had a little time to listen to the speakers, I do think they sound a fair bit better. Not quite as great an improvement as I was hoping for, but I'm happy with them. They've lost their muddy sound, and that's really all I wanted to accomplish. The tweeters sound a little stronger then before, maybe a little overpowering at high volume. I guess this is most likely due to the switch from a 1.8 ohm resistor to a 2.0 ohm.
Thank you again for your help with this. My next audio project won't happen for quite some time, because I don't really have much time on my hands until I am done with school. I am planning to strip my broken Logitech z560 amp, and make some nice little amps from the TDA7293 chips, and maybe do something a little more interesting with the Tangband speakers from them.
I am glad you got good results. The solen's sure are a lot bigger than electrlytic caps! I will put some pictures up of my S38's crossover, with it's 4, 15 and 60 µF caps. It looks pretty cool!
You may want to give the speakers a little more time to break in. I have heard people say that new caps can sound a bit harsh at first. I am not sure myself if any break-in actually occures or if it is just your ear getting used to the new sound but that is the subject of another thread.
You may want to give the speakers a little more time to break in. I have heard people say that new caps can sound a bit harsh at first. I am not sure myself if any break-in actually occures or if it is just your ear getting used to the new sound but that is the subject of another thread.
Member
Joined 2003
update
Back in december I replaced everything in these speakers, so the only thing still JBL about them is the boxes. The boxes got a little butchored, but nobody will notice with the cloth on them.
Woofer is Peerless CSX 850122
Tweeter is Peerless 811815
Crossover caps and Indtors are Solen, resistors are Mills.
Sounds absolutely wonderful. I never thought a 6.5" driver could reproduce bass so well.
Back in december I replaced everything in these speakers, so the only thing still JBL about them is the boxes. The boxes got a little butchored, but nobody will notice with the cloth on them.
Woofer is Peerless CSX 850122
Tweeter is Peerless 811815
Crossover caps and Indtors are Solen, resistors are Mills.
Sounds absolutely wonderful. I never thought a 6.5" driver could reproduce bass so well.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.