Anyone who saw my post yesterday will know i'm trying to get a rather worse for wear XU30 projector up and running again. Last night I fitted a UHP lamp i acquired and modded it to run without a ballast for when i move to HQI lamps later. If anyone wants details/photos of that mod please let me know.
Anyway having fired it up i noticed the image was totally lacking red apart from a strange 'halo' effect, some investigating later it turns out the red colour filter/polariser has been burnt badly and needs replacing. Anyone here know of anywhere i can buy such a thing, or has anyone got one from a dead projector?
Thanks
Anyway having fired it up i noticed the image was totally lacking red apart from a strange 'halo' effect, some investigating later it turns out the red colour filter/polariser has been burnt badly and needs replacing. Anyone here know of anywhere i can buy such a thing, or has anyone got one from a dead projector?
Thanks
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Continuing -
I found i could lift the burnt polariser away from the red filter itself unfortunately in trying to clean the large amount of residual glue i cracked the filter. One step forward 2 steps back yet again.
Anyone know where i can get a filter or any way to fabricate/botch/generally fit one such that the image will have an element of red?
Thanks
I found i could lift the burnt polariser away from the red filter itself unfortunately in trying to clean the large amount of residual glue i cracked the filter. One step forward 2 steps back yet again.
Anyone know where i can get a filter or any way to fabricate/botch/generally fit one such that the image will have an element of red?
Thanks
Hey I'm looking to replace the bulb in a projector I just bought on ebay, its an Plus U5 132 Projector. I'm interested in the mod you mentioned, I checked froogle and found £71 to be the cheapest UHP lamp I could find, its not as cheap as some Xenon bulbs but its an improvement on £400 😛. Any details on the mod would be appreciated. I'm wondering what you meant by getting it to run without a ballast? are you using the projectors ballast modified somehow to run it?
When you say red filter are you talking about the red part of a colour wheel in a DLP projector, I don't know if its possible to buy replacements but maybe you could try finding an old broken DLP and salvaging the filter from that.
thanks
When you say red filter are you talking about the red part of a colour wheel in a DLP projector, I don't know if its possible to buy replacements but maybe you could try finding an old broken DLP and salvaging the filter from that.
thanks
Hi, the mod in question. I did some research into this projector and managed to locate the signal wire which allows the ballast to signal the main controller if a lamp fails/isnt present. By forcing this line to the correct logic state, in this case ground, its possible to make the controller think the ballast is working correctly and so display an image on its LCDs, even if the ballast isnt actually connected. This allows the use of any suitably bright light source. Read through these forums for suggested alternatives. Depending on the light source you go for you will need the correct ballast/driver for the lamp if it needs one.
I have found it easier to use whatever power rated UHP lamp i could buy cheaply on ebay and fit the lamp and reflector to the lamp caddy i have for the projector and then simply adjust the existing ballasts power output to as not to blow it. I currently have a 180W lamp fitted to a previously 200W ballast. Obviously this adjustment isn't exact but staying to the side of slightly lower than you'd thing seems sensible
The XU30 is actually a 3LCD type projector with a colour filter for each lcd to generate the image, obviously without the red filter the image would have no red component. The filter was a very thin piece of glass and was a diachroic type, it is possible to have replacements made.
All projectors i have come across use a very simple interface to give the controller the status of the ballast,however identifying the specific wire is usually more of a challenge, i'd suggest you try to find a service manual for your projector or as i did any others from different manufacturers which are actually the same as they are often rebranded. These contain detailed technical info on the given projector. if you have trouble locating the connection you need in the manual please give me a link to the manual or email it and i'll have a look.
Hope this helps
Jon
Ps if you want to know any more please ask
I have found it easier to use whatever power rated UHP lamp i could buy cheaply on ebay and fit the lamp and reflector to the lamp caddy i have for the projector and then simply adjust the existing ballasts power output to as not to blow it. I currently have a 180W lamp fitted to a previously 200W ballast. Obviously this adjustment isn't exact but staying to the side of slightly lower than you'd thing seems sensible
The XU30 is actually a 3LCD type projector with a colour filter for each lcd to generate the image, obviously without the red filter the image would have no red component. The filter was a very thin piece of glass and was a diachroic type, it is possible to have replacements made.
All projectors i have come across use a very simple interface to give the controller the status of the ballast,however identifying the specific wire is usually more of a challenge, i'd suggest you try to find a service manual for your projector or as i did any others from different manufacturers which are actually the same as they are often rebranded. These contain detailed technical info on the given projector. if you have trouble locating the connection you need in the manual please give me a link to the manual or email it and i'll have a look.
Hope this helps
Jon
Ps if you want to know any more please ask
how exactly do you know by how much your adjusting the ballasts power output? are you adjusting the wattage or voltage? Would a multimeter be safe to use at these power levels?
What do I need to look for when buying a alternative lamp? other then the obvious wattage do I need to get a bulb with similar voltage and amperage?
How about the igniting voltage can I assume that all UHP bulbs/ballasts use the same ignition voltage
Also do you have any idea what voltage and amps the original lamp in the Plus U5 132 Projector, the lamp is called Plus U5 200
I have the manual if you require it please email me at modgod@hotmail.co.uk
thanks
What do I need to look for when buying a alternative lamp? other then the obvious wattage do I need to get a bulb with similar voltage and amperage?
How about the igniting voltage can I assume that all UHP bulbs/ballasts use the same ignition voltage
Also do you have any idea what voltage and amps the original lamp in the Plus U5 132 Projector, the lamp is called Plus U5 200
I have the manual if you require it please email me at modgod@hotmail.co.uk
thanks
hmm I cant seem to find a 200W UHP for less than £80 and thats still too much considering it might not work, I'm waiting to see if the forum member "YWH" can get me a cheap replacement otherwise looks like I'm going the xenon car headlight route or FXL Overhead Projector bulbs if I can get a cheap powersource
BTW does anyone know somewhere to buy ballasts that run the cheap OHP Bulbs?
edit -
found out that its not a ballast used to run ohp bulbs but a step down transformer, guessing to get 240/110V to around 82-86v which is the voltage used by most "FXL" bulbs which to the best of my knowledge are just halogen bulbs used a lot in OHP's.
If a stepdown transformer is used to get the correct voltage what supplies the 410W that most of these bulbs need to run?
BTW does anyone know somewhere to buy ballasts that run the cheap OHP Bulbs?
edit -
found out that its not a ballast used to run ohp bulbs but a step down transformer, guessing to get 240/110V to around 82-86v which is the voltage used by most "FXL" bulbs which to the best of my knowledge are just halogen bulbs used a lot in OHP's.
If a stepdown transformer is used to get the correct voltage what supplies the 410W that most of these bulbs need to run?
firstly dont even think about attaching a multimeter to the lamp connections, it will just go bang.
The ballast for a UHP fires the lamp by generating a surge of something around 5000V. Power (wattage) is a function of voltage and current. adjusting the ballast limits the maximum current through the lamp and as such its maximum power consumption.
Through research i found that the ballast in the xu30 is the same used in a range of similar projectors with lamp powers from 150-250W to taking this as the output range of the ballast started lower than the lamp should be and just increased it slightly until the image looked reasonable. However noting that a lower power lamp will not generate such a bright image even at its maximum power.
the starting voltage is actually set by the lamp, the maximum it reaches is the point the voltage difference between the lamp electrodes his high enough for an arc to establish at which point they will equalise, this arc is then sustained by the ballast i believe this is usually around 400V but once the arc is exstabmished the resistance drops and so the current to the lamp must be limited externally to prevent it burning out. I was looking at the headlight route but managed to get a UHP for £25 off ebay, i suggest one for a really obscure projector as theyre all made in the same place anyway.
as for the car lamp route i did some research on that too and it seems the way forward is the cheap HID kits, most are 35W but some are 55W, but i never needed to buy so cant say if it'd work well, someone else on here might now....
Jon
The ballast for a UHP fires the lamp by generating a surge of something around 5000V. Power (wattage) is a function of voltage and current. adjusting the ballast limits the maximum current through the lamp and as such its maximum power consumption.
Through research i found that the ballast in the xu30 is the same used in a range of similar projectors with lamp powers from 150-250W to taking this as the output range of the ballast started lower than the lamp should be and just increased it slightly until the image looked reasonable. However noting that a lower power lamp will not generate such a bright image even at its maximum power.
the starting voltage is actually set by the lamp, the maximum it reaches is the point the voltage difference between the lamp electrodes his high enough for an arc to establish at which point they will equalise, this arc is then sustained by the ballast i believe this is usually around 400V but once the arc is exstabmished the resistance drops and so the current to the lamp must be limited externally to prevent it burning out. I was looking at the headlight route but managed to get a UHP for £25 off ebay, i suggest one for a really obscure projector as theyre all made in the same place anyway.
as for the car lamp route i did some research on that too and it seems the way forward is the cheap HID kits, most are 35W but some are 55W, but i never needed to buy so cant say if it'd work well, someone else on here might now....
Jon
yeah I've also seen 70W and 100W Xenon kits but they are considerably more expensive and mostly American websites. I'm currently waiting for a reply from an ebay seller concerning the HID xenon headlight kits. Hes getting me info like arc length, lumen output etc
I'll post any info I get
do you have any idea what the size of the internals that power an OHP bulb are, I just wanna know if I'll have to externalize the electrical if I'm going this route
Do UHP lamps all have the same connectors?
I'll post any info I get
do you have any idea what the size of the internals that power an OHP bulb are, I just wanna know if I'll have to externalize the electrical if I'm going this route
Do UHP lamps all have the same connectors?
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