Hi guys,
This afternoon, I went to a garage sales and saw a pair of Scott S153 speakers in a bad shape. The cabinets are in good conditions but the speakers itself are well.. look at the pictures ;-)
Am a bit nostalgic as my parents had a similar pair and they sounded great. The problem is.. I can't find information about parts that could bring it back to life. I will test the tweeter and mid this week. Maybe I will have to change em. The subwoofer is to be changed for sure.. About the crossover, I would make a new one depending of the new speakers.
So guys, do you know where to get parts or which parts compose this speaker ? 🙂
- Album on Imgur
This afternoon, I went to a garage sales and saw a pair of Scott S153 speakers in a bad shape. The cabinets are in good conditions but the speakers itself are well.. look at the pictures ;-)
Am a bit nostalgic as my parents had a similar pair and they sounded great. The problem is.. I can't find information about parts that could bring it back to life. I will test the tweeter and mid this week. Maybe I will have to change em. The subwoofer is to be changed for sure.. About the crossover, I would make a new one depending of the new speakers.
So guys, do you know where to get parts or which parts compose this speaker ? 🙂
- Album on Imgur
I always enjoy fitting new drivers to old boxes!
I'd guess you want some reasonable 15" woofer with a Qts near or above 0.5 for closed box. Not too efficient because a 4" mid isn't going to be hugely loud. So maybe below 90dB with a smallish magnet.
I thought this cheapish Goldwood GW-215/40/8 15 might work:
https://www.parts-express.com/goldwood-gw-215-40-8-15-oem-woofer-40-oz--290-346
You should try and figure out the crossover. Possibly a bass coil, maybe a bass coil plus capacitor in the bass section. Measure the cutouts too. To see what will fit.
I'd guess you want some reasonable 15" woofer with a Qts near or above 0.5 for closed box. Not too efficient because a 4" mid isn't going to be hugely loud. So maybe below 90dB with a smallish magnet.
I thought this cheapish Goldwood GW-215/40/8 15 might work:
https://www.parts-express.com/goldwood-gw-215-40-8-15-oem-woofer-40-oz--290-346
You should try and figure out the crossover. Possibly a bass coil, maybe a bass coil plus capacitor in the bass section. Measure the cutouts too. To see what will fit.
Would it be excessive to go for something more high end ?
I am a total newby with speaker selection. What is qts ? If I change the 4inch mid with something more efficient, should I keep the woofer below 90db ?
Thanks for your help 🙂
I am a total newby with speaker selection. What is qts ? If I change the 4inch mid with something more efficient, should I keep the woofer below 90db ?
Thanks for your help 🙂
Qts describes how the driver interacts with the cabinet. Qts below 0.4 is a reflex driver with a tube or hole in the cabinet. Qts > 0.5 is a closed box driver or sealed cabinet. A really big Qts around 1.8 would give you a lumpy bass at the bottom end. 1.09 for the Goldwood looks OK.
I really don't think a high end driver is indicated here. Running up to 1kHz is hardly demanding for a bass, and that driver I fairly randomly picked looks well enough behaved. We might also end up spending some money on a crossover, which is the main event. But you might get lucky and find your Scott works OK just with the new bass.
Here's how a typical 3 way works:
SEAS-3-Way-Classic
You can do tricks like doubling up the mid drivers to improve power handling and making a separate box for them behind the baffle. But they always end up a bit like the Steen Duelund response. TBH, a 15" bass is a bit bigger (and usually louder) than I would pick with the other smallish drivers, but let's see how it goes. The rather handsome design on the right is a Wharfedale E70 which has a rather good midrange section. You could fit something like that to your cabinet IMO. 😎
I really don't think a high end driver is indicated here. Running up to 1kHz is hardly demanding for a bass, and that driver I fairly randomly picked looks well enough behaved. We might also end up spending some money on a crossover, which is the main event. But you might get lucky and find your Scott works OK just with the new bass.
Here's how a typical 3 way works:
SEAS-3-Way-Classic
You can do tricks like doubling up the mid drivers to improve power handling and making a separate box for them behind the baffle. But they always end up a bit like the Steen Duelund response. TBH, a 15" bass is a bit bigger (and usually louder) than I would pick with the other smallish drivers, but let's see how it goes. The rather handsome design on the right is a Wharfedale E70 which has a rather good midrange section. You could fit something like that to your cabinet IMO. 😎
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an actual rite of passage ...
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MCM Audio Select 15" Woofer with Poly Cone and Rubber Surround 200W RMS at 8ohm | 55-2974 (552974) | MCM Audio Select
MCM Electronics: Home and Pro Audio/Video, Security and Test Equipment
Parts Express: the #1 source for audio, video & speaker building components
15" are long gone from the apartments... a 8 " is already too big.
If you think you can manage to make a new baffle for a reduced size woofer,
you can take a look at the projects in the page pagina 2
and see if the closed box types such as the "Stilnovo" or the "Crucher" may fit with the volume. One is all Monacor, the other all Hi-Vi drivers.
One of the monacor suffix is "HQ" which is in the woofer's name and I guess it means "high quality" which might recall "high end"....🙄
If you think you can manage to make a new baffle for a reduced size woofer,
you can take a look at the projects in the page pagina 2
and see if the closed box types such as the "Stilnovo" or the "Crucher" may fit with the volume. One is all Monacor, the other all Hi-Vi drivers.
One of the monacor suffix is "HQ" which is in the woofer's name and I guess it means "high quality" which might recall "high end"....🙄
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