One of my hobbies is the restoration of vintage electronics - professional audio and lab test gear.
It was once common for well respected American manufacturers (eg Tektronix) to paint nuts and bolts and one terminal of each tag strip or group of tag strips. This had three purposes: (a) to prevent vibration from transport or from transformers from causing the nuts to work loose, without requiring special techniques to get the nuts undone for maintenance, as would be required if thread lockers such as used in the automotive industry was used; b) to show that the quality control inspector had actually inspected it - it was typically the inspector that applied the paint; and, (c) to lock the alignment slugs in RF transformers and the shafts of calibration pots.
I would like to duplicate what the factories did.
The paint was described in service manuals and factory process documents as "Red Glyptal" and given a part number. Tektronix is still around but they have no knowledge of what they did in the vacuum tube era and no longer recognize their own part numbers.
I wrote to Glyptal, who are a speciality paint manufacturer still around, but I got no reply.
Does anyone know just what Glyptal product (type number) it was, and where I can buy small quantities of an equivalent? Glyptal products that are sold now that are red appear to be something quite different, eg motor winding insulation. And a commercial quantity would last me about a thousand years.
I have been using red nail varnish, which looks almost the same, comes in tiny jars for a couple of dollars, but is far from ideal.
It was once common for well respected American manufacturers (eg Tektronix) to paint nuts and bolts and one terminal of each tag strip or group of tag strips. This had three purposes: (a) to prevent vibration from transport or from transformers from causing the nuts to work loose, without requiring special techniques to get the nuts undone for maintenance, as would be required if thread lockers such as used in the automotive industry was used; b) to show that the quality control inspector had actually inspected it - it was typically the inspector that applied the paint; and, (c) to lock the alignment slugs in RF transformers and the shafts of calibration pots.
I would like to duplicate what the factories did.
The paint was described in service manuals and factory process documents as "Red Glyptal" and given a part number. Tektronix is still around but they have no knowledge of what they did in the vacuum tube era and no longer recognize their own part numbers.
I wrote to Glyptal, who are a speciality paint manufacturer still around, but I got no reply.
Does anyone know just what Glyptal product (type number) it was, and where I can buy small quantities of an equivalent? Glyptal products that are sold now that are red appear to be something quite different, eg motor winding insulation. And a commercial quantity would last me about a thousand years.
I have been using red nail varnish, which looks almost the same, comes in tiny jars for a couple of dollars, but is far from ideal.
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Hi Keit -- Your post brought back some memories. We used "Glyp" to repair small leaks in glass-to-metal feedthroughs for vacuum systems when I was in grad school (about 40 yrs ago). I think you want Glyptal 1201 Red. Quarts seem to be the smallest quantity for sale. Check out Amazon.com: Glyptal Brush On Red Enamel 1 Quart: Automotive
Good luck!
Phil
edit -- this stuff looks similar in a small quantity:
MG Chemicals 4228-55ML Red Insulating Varnish, 55 mL Bottle: Construction Marking Tools: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
Good luck!
Phil
edit -- this stuff looks similar in a small quantity:
MG Chemicals 4228-55ML Red Insulating Varnish, 55 mL Bottle: Construction Marking Tools: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
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Nail vanish works OK if you put it on screw threads BEFORE assembling the nut or screwing it into a tapped hole. Just my 2 cents.
My wish is to be able to buy MIL Spec lacing tape without have to buy a box of a dozen or so. Anybody seen these in 1 spool quantities?
Steve
My wish is to be able to buy MIL Spec lacing tape without have to buy a box of a dozen or so. Anybody seen these in 1 spool quantities?
Steve
Thanks, Phil,
It may well have been Glyptal 1201. I just checked their datasheet and it lists "thread sealing" as one application.
I had never heard of MG Chemicals, but I just googled it, and its readily available here in Australia via Digikey. I'll order a 55ml bottle and see how it goes.
Thanks. But applying it to nuts AFTER assembly, so it's visible, is pretty much the whole point here. In locking RF transformer coils, you don't have the option of putting it inside, and you don't want to make it hard to unstick either - the slugs are somewhat delicate.
Racers also use Glyptal to paint the valley of engines to aid oil drainback. Since maybe the '60s
Quart Red Glyptal:
Glyptal 1201 Paint - The Eastwood Company
(I see bobgroger already mentioned this connection.)
Yes, it will be a 10,000-lifetime supply for you.
I think some motor (starter/generator) re-winders still use it and might give you a small dab.
In Australia, try Associated Gaskets:
AG - Associated Gaskets
http://agaus.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/Glyptal-1201-Red-Enamel-TDS.pdf
> buy MIL Spec lacing tape without have to buy a box
$10/roll ($20 shipping): Lost art of cable lacing (whole thread)
Glyptal 1201 Paint - The Eastwood Company
(I see bobgroger already mentioned this connection.)
Yes, it will be a 10,000-lifetime supply for you.
I think some motor (starter/generator) re-winders still use it and might give you a small dab.
In Australia, try Associated Gaskets:
AG - Associated Gaskets
http://agaus.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/Glyptal-1201-Red-Enamel-TDS.pdf
> buy MIL Spec lacing tape without have to buy a box
$10/roll ($20 shipping): Lost art of cable lacing (whole thread)
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Loctite makes various grades of nut lock compound. Some will lock the nut but not make it hard to remove. Not sure about the electrical properties.
Any colour nail polish/enamel (including red) will do the job fine.
The point is that it´s a weak adhesive, so it locks stuff against vibration but cracks under tool pressure releasing it for adjustment if so needed.
It´s also rigid so when it cracks, it cracks out clean and is easy to remove; while an "elastic" adhesive such as contact cement is a PITA.
I had expected (still do) that old style Glyptal is (was) similar,but reading the MSDS for the modern one https://www.eastwood.com/images/pdf/46001zp_msds.pdf I found an incredibly heavy solids content: 8% red iron oxide (which looks fine , the "Red" bit must come from somewhere) 🙂 , but also 17% talcum ... WTF?
That very high 25% solids content makes it not a paint or enamel per se but rather a high solids content sealer/filler, not surprising since *this* modern product is offered for the specific task of pore sealing in castings (including engine blocks), such fillers will also make it sandable smooth .
Fine for that use, but I can not find its usefulness (at all) for the nut locking duty we need.
I think it´s another product, for a different use, by the same company.
The point is that it´s a weak adhesive, so it locks stuff against vibration but cracks under tool pressure releasing it for adjustment if so needed.
It´s also rigid so when it cracks, it cracks out clean and is easy to remove; while an "elastic" adhesive such as contact cement is a PITA.
I had expected (still do) that old style Glyptal is (was) similar,but reading the MSDS for the modern one https://www.eastwood.com/images/pdf/46001zp_msds.pdf I found an incredibly heavy solids content: 8% red iron oxide (which looks fine , the "Red" bit must come from somewhere) 🙂 , but also 17% talcum ... WTF?
That very high 25% solids content makes it not a paint or enamel per se but rather a high solids content sealer/filler, not surprising since *this* modern product is offered for the specific task of pore sealing in castings (including engine blocks), such fillers will also make it sandable smooth .
Straight from the mouth of the horse.
Fine for that use, but I can not find its usefulness (at all) for the nut locking duty we need.
I think it´s another product, for a different use, by the same company.
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JMFahey: Yes, that makes sense to me.
If Glyptal still made whatever it was they made for GE, Tektronix, etc back in the '50's, they likely would have tried to sell it to me. But I got no reply to my enquiry at all.
Still, whatever it was, it does have a little more strength than nail varnish, and from its neat appearance, probably had more viscosity when applied too.
If Glyptal still made whatever it was they made for GE, Tektronix, etc back in the '50's, they likely would have tried to sell it to me. But I got no reply to my enquiry at all.
Still, whatever it was, it does have a little more strength than nail varnish, and from its neat appearance, probably had more viscosity when applied too.
I've now studied the technical data sheet and the MSDS. The solvent vehicle is xylene + ethylbenzene, which is nasty stuff. Contact with hands requires immediate washing. It does look just the right stuff in terms of properties (although its' drying time is a bit long), but may be too hazardous for "home/hobby" use.
Maybe I should stick to nail varnish. The traditional solvent vehicle for nail varnish is acetone which sometimes occurs in the body and so can't be hazardous, and these days is often ethyl acetate, which is present in some foods and drinks, plus isopropyl alcohol, which is not particularly hazardous and commonly used to clean electronic equipment.
But thanks for your help - it's appreciated.
> solvent vehicle for nail varnish is acetone which sometimes occurs in the body and so can't be hazardous
Depends on the dose. Excess natural acetone is a sign your body is not happy. A splash of acetone on the skin is drying, not noxious. A closed room of acetone fumes will make you sick.
Painting nails or joints is a very low-dose exposure indeed, and the trace you inhale will not stress your kidneys.
Depends on the dose. Excess natural acetone is a sign your body is not happy. A splash of acetone on the skin is drying, not noxious. A closed room of acetone fumes will make you sick.
Painting nails or joints is a very low-dose exposure indeed, and the trace you inhale will not stress your kidneys.
I have used the "new" Glyptal.... It work good fine for nuts and threads.... It's just strong enough... I also use it in areas to reduce arcing with small distances....
I would suggest wax for RF tuning slugs...You need something that light use of a heat gun will loosen up just long enough to calibrate and re-harden...
I would suggest wax for RF tuning slugs...You need something that light use of a heat gun will loosen up just long enough to calibrate and re-harden...
I assume you are male. Ever walked into a manicure shop? They all smell of acetone, and some of them really stink. Fumes at that level must do something. I've wondered if the workers go home completely sober. Perhaps they acquire tolerance, like old-time surgeons developed a tolerance to ether, when operating theaters were not flow-through air-conditioned.
When using nail-varnish as a substitute be careful not to use it to lock ferrite cores in RF or IF coils in vintage gear. These are often made from polystyrene and aceton will dissolve this stuff destroying the part
True - acetone will indeed dissolve polystyrene. Probably Glyptal will too. But you wouldn't (I wouldn't anyway) use nail varnish or Glyptal on this type of RF or IF coil as it would have to be inside and not visible. A totally different method is used to lock the slugs in that sort - a special thread-like substance.
The RF transformers/coils I was talking about have the slug (powdered iron) molded on the end of a brass threaded rod This screw projects out the top of the transformer, so it is ok to use nail varnish where the rod emerges from the nut. All good.
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