Hi,
-beginner writing here-
I have a set of speakers (see picture), with four KENFORD Typ PA300 8Ohm / 350 W / 96dB
(SPL 96 dB 1 W/m Diameter Voice Coils 63.5 mm, resonant frequency 38.5, Band Width: 48 Hz – 3 K Hz (-3 dB), re, 6.8 ohm, QMS 3.06, Qes 0,5654, Qts 0,4772, VAS 48 L, SD 0,0531 sqm, EBP.)
I'm also connecting two of these COMPRESSION DRIVER TITANIUM 60W
Skytec
Output power 60W
Magnet weight 13 oz
Voice coil 1.3"
Frequency Response 1.600 - 20.000 Hz
SPL @ 1W/1m 105dB
Impedance 8ohm
Could you recommend an amplifier that I could purchase?
My budget is quite on the low side...
Any suggestions welcome!
Many thanks!!
Alex
-beginner writing here-
I have a set of speakers (see picture), with four KENFORD Typ PA300 8Ohm / 350 W / 96dB
(SPL 96 dB 1 W/m Diameter Voice Coils 63.5 mm, resonant frequency 38.5, Band Width: 48 Hz – 3 K Hz (-3 dB), re, 6.8 ohm, QMS 3.06, Qes 0,5654, Qts 0,4772, VAS 48 L, SD 0,0531 sqm, EBP.)
I'm also connecting two of these COMPRESSION DRIVER TITANIUM 60W
Skytec
Output power 60W
Magnet weight 13 oz
Voice coil 1.3"
Frequency Response 1.600 - 20.000 Hz
SPL @ 1W/1m 105dB
Impedance 8ohm
Could you recommend an amplifier that I could purchase?
My budget is quite on the low side...
Any suggestions welcome!
Many thanks!!
Alex
Attachments
This project still needs some work.
Where are the horns / waveguides for the compression drivers, I don't see any in the picture? Strictly speaking, the compression drivers' sensitivity spec is only valid if you know what type of horn was used to obtain it. To match the woofer cabinets, I'd suggest something with relatively wide horizontal but narrow vertical directivity, maybe a 90x40° job or so.
Where is the crossover supposed to be located, i.e. active or passive?
How are the Kenford drivers wired up, in series or in parallel?
What are listening distance and level demands like? Do you want these just for parties or for personal listening? Noise level requirements on the tweeter section are going to vary accordingly - a bit of hiss is not likely to be noticed at a party but may well drive you batty doing serious listening at close proximity, and >100 dB / W / m is like taking a magnifying glass to your amplifier noise floor.
Please specify your budget in a bit more detail.
Where are the horns / waveguides for the compression drivers, I don't see any in the picture? Strictly speaking, the compression drivers' sensitivity spec is only valid if you know what type of horn was used to obtain it. To match the woofer cabinets, I'd suggest something with relatively wide horizontal but narrow vertical directivity, maybe a 90x40° job or so.
Where is the crossover supposed to be located, i.e. active or passive?
How are the Kenford drivers wired up, in series or in parallel?
What are listening distance and level demands like? Do you want these just for parties or for personal listening? Noise level requirements on the tweeter section are going to vary accordingly - a bit of hiss is not likely to be noticed at a party but may well drive you batty doing serious listening at close proximity, and >100 dB / W / m is like taking a magnifying glass to your amplifier noise floor.
Please specify your budget in a bit more detail.
This is diyaudio. Do you have time to trade for money?
I buy used & blown up amps from the 80's & 90's and repair them. You don't have to worry much about too much power, as long as the repairman is in charge of the volume knob. I'm running 13 W rated 6 1/2" coaxial drivers in my TV room on 140 w/ch PV-4c I paid $20 for. $60 in parts, I don't expect to be in it again for 15 years with new electrolytic caps and additional fins on the heat sink.
I'm running my $500 each SP2 speakers with a CS800s I paid $100 for plus $40 in parts. It is better on the higher cost speakers, CS800s has a serious DC protection circuit. 260 w/ch 8 ohms, speakers are rated at 300 RMS. I don't need that much volume but the fan doesn't run much at 1/8 w average 70 w peak in my living room.
Peavey is generous with schematics, but people also have nice things to say about Crown, QSC, Alesis R100.
Later than 1996? watt ratings got stupid, you can't even get 3000 w/ch out of a wall outlet. Also surface mount parts take a $700 workstation to remove & replace instead of a $60 soldering iron. Switching power supplies are not for the newbie, I recommend transformer models like the CS800x or previous to start with. A & B revisions of that amp from early 80's are used as doorstops by repair shops, they hiss a bit at volumes lower than 100 W/ch.
Get on your local electronic marketplace, or visit musician's exchanges. Look for "amp for parts or repair". If you get a totally blown one like the PV-1.3k I bought for $55, 124 new parts is still only $90. That was blown all the way back through the DDT op amp. Check reputation on here, my local musician exchange had a couple of tigersaurus from SWTC with shiny new output transistors, which were real dogs prone to blowing up frequently. Carver is too complicated, was one of those too.
You'll need $100 in tools and to ask many questions on this forum or the PA forum which might be more appropriate to amps of several hundred watts capability.
Keep your fans maintained and don't use 1/4 phone plugs for speaker connections, they short if anybody trips over the cable.
If you're really starting, mixers for parts or repair often come with stereo 100 w outputs, and last winter were much more common & cheap than blown PA amps. These usually have both blown output transistors and bad master volume pot.
If the customers can get to the volume knob while you are in the toilet, install a limiter between mixer & amp.
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