Hi all-
Just got my first t-amp recently, and am enjoying it and reading about all the mods I'll be looking to make to it in future... 🙂
I ran it on AAs for the first week or so, but the sound started cutting out today during loud moments or when I would turn up the volume so it was definately time to switch to a different power supply.
I got impulsive and ran to Radio Shack, instead of ordering directly from Sonic Impact, where I picked up their 12V 1500mA adaptor (273-1779). I had read enough online to know that this was indeed the values I needed for the amp, however once I got home I read here that this specific power supply actually outputs 15v instead of the listed 12v. I pulled out the old multimeter and indeed, this thing spits out ~14.8v.
Does this pose a serious problem to the life-span or sound quality of the t-amp? So far it's running fine and sounds normal, although I am noticing the top of the plastic case is a litte warm which is something I didn't notice before when running on batteries.
I'm not ready to jump this to a SLA battery, but would like to feel comfortable with my wall wart.
Any thoughts?
Thanks.
Just got my first t-amp recently, and am enjoying it and reading about all the mods I'll be looking to make to it in future... 🙂
I ran it on AAs for the first week or so, but the sound started cutting out today during loud moments or when I would turn up the volume so it was definately time to switch to a different power supply.
I got impulsive and ran to Radio Shack, instead of ordering directly from Sonic Impact, where I picked up their 12V 1500mA adaptor (273-1779). I had read enough online to know that this was indeed the values I needed for the amp, however once I got home I read here that this specific power supply actually outputs 15v instead of the listed 12v. I pulled out the old multimeter and indeed, this thing spits out ~14.8v.
Does this pose a serious problem to the life-span or sound quality of the t-amp? So far it's running fine and sounds normal, although I am noticing the top of the plastic case is a litte warm which is something I didn't notice before when running on batteries.
I'm not ready to jump this to a SLA battery, but would like to feel comfortable with my wall wart.
Any thoughts?
Thanks.
I have the same wall-wart powering my sonic impact, and it's been fine for over a month now. I called the RS tech line about the ~15v, they said it's completely normal - the voltage drops to ~12 with a load.
I assume the amp is enough of a load even when idling.
I assume the amp is enough of a load even when idling.
The T-amp will operate well with up to 14VDC, BUT if yours has been recently purchased, I would not suggest using that high a voltage. The T-amps went through a "de-rating" and the solder heatsinking was eliminated. So the heat you detect is the chip glowing and radiating the heat into the plastic case. If you dont put a heatsink on it, I wouldnt use more than 12V. Did you check the wallwart while powering the amp? With no load, the wart will read higher than when powering the amp(provided it is unregulated). Check it with the amp operating with no signal and then with. That will give you a realistic voltage.
I heatsink all my T-amps. I would suggest doing the same, and operating it moderately if you dont.
amt
I heatsink all my T-amps. I would suggest doing the same, and operating it moderately if you dont.
amt
Thanks for the input thus far.
I'm not sure how to test the voltage with the amp connected as a load... I imagine it would require some clips or plugs that I don't have right now. I guess I can rest easy knowing that it's not running at the full 15v.
As for heatsinking, because I have it in the original case still, I'm thinking that I don't have much headroom in their for a sink. I have some very small BGA ramsinks from my computer that may work I guess... anybody know exactly what I can fit in there? Height specifically.
I'm not sure how to test the voltage with the amp connected as a load... I imagine it would require some clips or plugs that I don't have right now. I guess I can rest easy knowing that it's not running at the full 15v.
As for heatsinking, because I have it in the original case still, I'm thinking that I don't have much headroom in their for a sink. I have some very small BGA ramsinks from my computer that may work I guess... anybody know exactly what I can fit in there? Height specifically.
geaugafletcher said:
I wouldn't count on that; the adaptor does seem to be unregulated so the high off-load voltage is normal for a small transformer. As the RS Tech said, it should be near 12V with a 1500mA load. But the T-Amp only draws about 75mA when idling IIRC, so to be safe see what the voltage is with a 150R or 180R resistor as load. It may scare you.
If your wallwart can be taken apart, you can check at the cord connection. If not, strip a tiny bit of cable sheilding away from the cord with an exacto and get a reading there.
As to a heatsink, flood on some solder, through the vent holes and onto the slug and then attach a small piece of copper or aluminum. Make sure to tin the heatsink piece first, and keep it hot or you dont have to re-heat the whole thing mess.Copper is far better since it retains the heat longer. Below is a t-amp I added a scrap of copper to. Ugly but works well.
amt
As to a heatsink, flood on some solder, through the vent holes and onto the slug and then attach a small piece of copper or aluminum. Make sure to tin the heatsink piece first, and keep it hot or you dont have to re-heat the whole thing mess.Copper is far better since it retains the heat longer. Below is a t-amp I added a scrap of copper to. Ugly but works well.
amt
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amt said:
A couple of sharp pins hooked to your meter will do the trick (almost) without leaving a trace... 😀
Ok, hey all. Because of the design of the Radio Shack adaptor and their interchangable plugs, I was able to just barely attach the plug to the cord giving me enough room to get my probes in there. With the amp running, the multimeter is still showing ~14.3v. I'm assuming that was a proper way to take the reading.
I may be making a mountain out of a molehill here, as it's clear other people have used the Radio Shack one without any problems thus far. But I think that I may feel more comfortable returning it, getting my money back, and purchasing the AC adaptor from Sonic Impact directly via the web.
http://www.si-technologies.com/frontEnd/cm_productDetail.jsp?productID=3
Does anybody own that particular adaptor? If so, any chance you could check the voltage on that? I'd hate to go through the return process and wait to get the new one if the results are just the same as the Radio Shack model.
I may be making a mountain out of a molehill here, as it's clear other people have used the Radio Shack one without any problems thus far. But I think that I may feel more comfortable returning it, getting my money back, and purchasing the AC adaptor from Sonic Impact directly via the web.
http://www.si-technologies.com/frontEnd/cm_productDetail.jsp?productID=3
Does anybody own that particular adaptor? If so, any chance you could check the voltage on that? I'd hate to go through the return process and wait to get the new one if the results are just the same as the Radio Shack model.
There are plenty of regulated 12V adaptors out there, both linear and SMPS, and I'll bet far cheaper than that RS model. Here's one in the US, another[/url[ in the UK.
Another way is to insert a couple of 3A diodes (1N5401) in the outlet cord, which will drop 1.4-1.8V depending on load. But a regulated supply is a much better option.
Another way is to insert a couple of 3A diodes (1N5401) in the outlet cord, which will drop 1.4-1.8V depending on load. But a regulated supply is a much better option.
The SI supply looks to be a SMPS and will be regulated. The Samsung supply that cpemma linked, is an excellent supply and after listening to several, this one was the quietest and the one I use (when not using a SLA)
But, it comes with a 2.1mm plug. The T-amps use a 2.5mm so you will have to replace the plug or find a plug adaptor. They put out 11.8VDC on average.
amt
But, it comes with a 2.1mm plug. The T-amps use a 2.5mm so you will have to replace the plug or find a plug adaptor. They put out 11.8VDC on average.
amt
Mine has a 2.1mm-pin socket so YMMV... 😕amt said:
I'm using the UK adaptor I linked, with "2.1 x 5.5 x 12mm female barrel".
Hello everybody, here with a follow up.
I returned the Radio Shack wall wart and got my money back. Then I ordered the AC adaptor straight from Sonic Impact. It arrived today and I'm happy to say that it puts out a constant 12.25v (as opposed to RS's 14.8v).
The SI ac adaptor is nice and small, seems well constructed, and it nice and quiet.
Thanks again for all your help and advice.
I returned the Radio Shack wall wart and got my money back. Then I ordered the AC adaptor straight from Sonic Impact. It arrived today and I'm happy to say that it puts out a constant 12.25v (as opposed to RS's 14.8v).
The SI ac adaptor is nice and small, seems well constructed, and it nice and quiet.
Thanks again for all your help and advice.
cpemma said:
When boxing up my t amp, I purchased both 2.1 and 2.5mm DC chassis sockets... The same connector I had previously used with the plastic-bodied amp delivered a comfy "correct" fit in the 2.5mm socket...
Keefe.
Forgot to mention that the T-amp gives off considerably less heat now as a result of the switch to lower voltage. I feel much more comfortable running it for long periods of time.
Next step is next case, terminals, pot, and if I'm brave the caps (I really want to get bass out of this thing)!
thanks again!
Next step is next case, terminals, pot, and if I'm brave the caps (I really want to get bass out of this thing)!
thanks again!
be carefull boys and girls i have just had my amp blown up with a wall wart this was loaned to a friend who decided to use a maplin unit
when i measured the output from this after the amps demise i found that open circuit its output was at 16.5 volts
sorry i wasnt there to supervise it before the blow up always check the open circuit voltage from the psu
when i measured the output from this after the amps demise i found that open circuit its output was at 16.5 volts
sorry i wasnt there to supervise it before the blow up always check the open circuit voltage from the psu
keefe said:
Very much YMMV then, I've a pack of the various fittings from another adaptor, and the 2.5mm was definitely a sloppy fit on my 5066, the two 2.1mms I've used (on different adaptors) fitted like a glove.
Maybe it's models intended for the UK/European market that have the 2.1 (presumably the "official" Sonic Impact adaptor comes with the appropriate mains plug, voltage, etc, for the destination); did you get yours from the US?
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