Hi,
I am new to 'real' soldering (like beyond doing random wire solders over the years) and just finished a Bottlehead kit, and the ACA (and did some practice kits before those so I was not learning on things I cared about!). The Bottlehead did not have any PCBs, but the ACA of course does...and a PCB that is actually passing a lot of current compared to most PCBs (for example what might be in a preamp or a $15 practice kit with LEDs).
Based on various things I read online, and the YouTube videos suggested by the makers of the kits, I was deliberate and purposeful in making sure I didn't just have a nice solder joint on the 'top' (where I was touching the iron), but that I also flowed enough solder into the joint that it fully penetrated the PCB and reached the other side...as the image shows. This was stressed as important (especially for higher-current) because the trace is very thin and this provides a much better connection.
Can you verify this is 'correct' and a best practice? Is there every any reason you would not want to get a good flow like this (assuming you are not planning to disassemble!)?
Thanks!
I am new to 'real' soldering (like beyond doing random wire solders over the years) and just finished a Bottlehead kit, and the ACA (and did some practice kits before those so I was not learning on things I cared about!). The Bottlehead did not have any PCBs, but the ACA of course does...and a PCB that is actually passing a lot of current compared to most PCBs (for example what might be in a preamp or a $15 practice kit with LEDs).
Based on various things I read online, and the YouTube videos suggested by the makers of the kits, I was deliberate and purposeful in making sure I didn't just have a nice solder joint on the 'top' (where I was touching the iron), but that I also flowed enough solder into the joint that it fully penetrated the PCB and reached the other side...as the image shows. This was stressed as important (especially for higher-current) because the trace is very thin and this provides a much better connection.
Can you verify this is 'correct' and a best practice? Is there every any reason you would not want to get a good flow like this (assuming you are not planning to disassemble!)?
Thanks!
Looks fine, but sometimes the solder just won't flow through to the opposite side,
due to the lead filling the hole up, etc. Using eutectic solder will help, as will being sure
to heat both the lead and the pad together, adding a touch of solder to help if necessary.
In difficult cases when high current is expected, you can directly solder the other side afterward.
If, on the other side, there is no trace going to the pad, a connection on the first side is enough.
due to the lead filling the hole up, etc. Using eutectic solder will help, as will being sure
to heat both the lead and the pad together, adding a touch of solder to help if necessary.
In difficult cases when high current is expected, you can directly solder the other side afterward.
If, on the other side, there is no trace going to the pad, a connection on the first side is enough.
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Yes, when possible. This may require first bending the leads enough to cinch the part in place.
Cutting the leads after soldering can damage the joint, and never cut into the solder when
trimming the leads.
Cutting the leads after soldering can damage the joint, and never cut into the solder when
trimming the leads.
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If you need to have solder flow through the via then the holes need to be large too.
Some designers just make hole big enough to pass lead through.
Used to work with PCB man who liked big holes.
Big holes also mean you use more solder.
One problem with solder flowing through to other side of pcb is chance of getting a short on the other side from a solder blob.
I had this once with a transistor with thin leads and it shorted base collector on other side of pcb.
Some designers just make hole big enough to pass lead through.
Used to work with PCB man who liked big holes.
Big holes also mean you use more solder.
One problem with solder flowing through to other side of pcb is chance of getting a short on the other side from a solder blob.
I had this once with a transistor with thin leads and it shorted base collector on other side of pcb.
Yes, from experience with boards I've designed, a hole 20% wider than the lead works out well
in both respects.
in both respects.
A professional soldering iron and tip should maintain the temperature when wiping on the wet sponge. I normally preheat the PCB pad momentarily and then push the tip to the axial lead. Solder enough to flow down and finish nicely. Check other side and vary your method till both sides looks good. A row of pins is easier to solder because the next hole is already heated up a bit. Never used flux on PCB's.
A lot of people now no longer use a wet sponge but use brass cuttings.
It doesnt cool the iron down as much.
I find it much more convenient not having to wet the sponge now and then.
I have never understood the need to have a fancy temperature controlled soldering station costing a fortune.
I am still using a £10 Maplin Antex soldering iron I bought many years ago.
It rarely goes through tips and solders large as well as small components.
It doesnt cool the iron down as much.
I find it much more convenient not having to wet the sponge now and then.
I have never understood the need to have a fancy temperature controlled soldering station costing a fortune.
I am still using a £10 Maplin Antex soldering iron I bought many years ago.
It rarely goes through tips and solders large as well as small components.
Yes, you have done a great job there as shown in the picture. But do not stress out if every joint is not as perfect as the one you have shown. You will most likely be fine if you pay attention and it is plain that you are doing this carefully.
I have both brass cuttings and a sponge, the manufacturer recommends the cuttings over the sponge as stressing the soldering tip less, making it last longer. Go figure.
I have both brass cuttings and a sponge, the manufacturer recommends the cuttings over the sponge as stressing the soldering tip less, making it last longer. Go figure.
I solder much the same way than ray ma (post #2).
Heat both the part and the pad with a little solder on the iron (which helps transmitting heat), then I keep on heating until I can add the solder to the part/pad, the iron just heating. The solder will literally get sucked into the pad.
Keep on heating a second or so and observe the joint: You will see the molten solder flow into the pad. Done.
If it doesn't work, don't keep on heating forever...
Heat both the part and the pad with a little solder on the iron (which helps transmitting heat), then I keep on heating until I can add the solder to the part/pad, the iron just heating. The solder will literally get sucked into the pad.
Keep on heating a second or so and observe the joint: You will see the molten solder flow into the pad. Done.
If it doesn't work, don't keep on heating forever...