Problem matching 2Ω amp board.

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Hi, I have a 15" subwoofer driver which can be wired either 2Ω or 8Ω. I regularly use it for domestic use, and I am powering it with a car amplifier and a 12v power supply, but now I am thinking in buying an amplifier board and a psu and power it with it.

I have taken a look at some boards in the market, and initially the first option was to use a TPA3116 on a mono version. The subwoofer is the boss phantom, supposedly rated on 1250W, but I observed how good it performs around 100W, so maybe that thing is around 300W max or even less, 250W, which is a lot more than enough for general purposes.

I initially concluded that TPA3116 may be good, specially because it can handle 2Ω, thing that many others can not do, the problem is that I feel like it may be a little small in order to push the sub at max levels, so after all I don't think I should look at it as option, but a problem comes when I look at others, because they usually are for 4-8Ω, is some cases wiring the sub on 8Ω may be the same or even less performance than having the TPA3116 on 2Ω.

So now I don't know what to do, if still looking for medium power amps (around 250w) suitable for 2Ω, or wire the sub on 8Ω and match it with an amp able to deliver around 250W on 8Ω.

I prefer the board to be class D, mono and single power supply since I already have some single power supplies I can use, but no problem if necessary buy a dual psu. Please can anybody throw me some amp names?

I already looked at TDA7498, it does not support 2ohm, I dont know how power can it deliver on a 8ohm load, maybe less than TPA3116 on 2ohm, and it is dual psu. Edited, on 8 ohm, it delivers around 85W at max voltage.

Then I looked at IRS2092, can not find info about the power it delivers depending on the impedance load, although I found this chip to be very powerful and versatile.
 
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The IRS2092 is only part of an amplifier, it doesn't contain the output stage. Its the output stage that determines what load impedances can be driven. Certainly with the appropriate FETs as output drivers there's no problem driving a 2ohm load.
 
Thanks everybody, now I have more suitable options for my app after looking at those names. Thanks also to @Buehgemeiste, that gave me the idea of using a stereo board able to handle 4-8ohm, and connect each coil separately to each amplifier output, so the amp will see two 4ohm drivers (which solves the 2ohm problem). Only thing is to take care preparing a mono signal for both channels, easy to do and bring up more nice options.


two more ot the list:
TAS5630
TAS5611
 
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You should give a little more info about your power supply.
If it is a 12V 2.5A brick or something similar, you will gain nothing compared to a TPA3116 even if you are using a step up converter.

24V and 36V supplies are cheap and allow you to chose from a variety of amps.
TDA7498E of course is a nice option, too.
I recently ordered one here:
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/TDA7...0.0.pqaNHh&detailNewVersion=&categoryId=63701
 
Yes, I am aware of that, I researched in the past about power supplies, nowadays you can get lots of amps at an affordable price, good thing that they usually come with a preset so you can increase/decrease output voltage around kinda 10%. I have one that's 24V 8.3A, and can be set around 18 to 28v. Need to buy a new one 36V at around 15A, which will be more than enough for the needs. thanks.

You should give a little more info about your power supply.
If it is a 12V 2.5A brick or something similar, you will gain nothing compared to a TPA3116 even if you are using a step up converter.

24V and 36V supplies are cheap and allow you to chose from a variety of amps.
TDA7498E of course is a nice option, too.
I recently ordered one here:
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/TDA7...0.0.pqaNHh&detailNewVersion=&categoryId=63701
 
Yes, I am aware of that, I researched in the past about power supplies, nowadays you can get lots of amps at an affordable price, good thing that they usually come with a preset so you can increase/decrease output voltage around kinda 10%. I have one that's 24V 8.3A, and can be set around 18 to 28v. Need to buy a new one 36V at around 15A, which will be more than enough for the needs. thanks.

if your woofer has at least mediocore sensitivity your 24v supply will be enough with a class d amp.
especially for home use.
150w should shake your living room pretty good.
 
A 1200Watt Auna 2 channel car amplifier is really 2x15W into 4 ohm. Be carefull you don't burn your 2500watt caraudio speaker with 2x50watt tpa3116.

Once ago I checked with multi-meter the RMS watts the speaker was taking, it was something around 100w, and felt like it was able to take at least twice more to reach the max excursion and push it to the limit (I had a lot more power to give with the amplifier, but the sub still was in the breaking process, so I did not want going to far). You may be confused, I am taking about the Boss P156DVC driver. It has a 2.5" coil and everything pretty hard and solid construction, its very hard to move the cone pushing with the hand. I have been told that 2.5" coils are rated at least around 300-400w.
 
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With 100 watt your woofer should give around 123dB SPL ?? Some health people might say you needed protection to measure the 100 watt, or you need more than 100 watt next.

Cheap caraudio brands sell inflated numbers, so much inflated that they sell
2000 Watt RMS single channel mosfet class AB amplifier weaker than tpa3116. There is little shame in caraudio numbers.
 
Sometimes 'Bass-Face' amplifiers are mentioned in similar contexts.
I never heard these amps.
But they have class d amps with internal step up for car use.
Maybe should look that up.

AR1500M - Boss Audio Systems

Thats the mono block I have used to power the subwoofer, I don't know if that thing really gives "1125 W X 1 RMS @ 2 ohm", but I kept the knob level all at the very low level, and found the sub to kick enough hard, I measured the rms to be around 100w, I have read that you don't need to much power when the subwoofer is mounted on a large enclosure, which was my case, Two cubic feet., I am planning adding a bass reflex port, so the performance can be dramatically increased, I did not like too much the sealed, I felt like ported enclosures are more interesting, although have not much experience with big loads, in the past all my enclosures were ported, but always around 50w with small drivers.
 
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Fuse is 30A, so does this say something? I am ignorant to this.

30A * 13.8V = 414W

(this assumes the alternator is keeping the battery at max. If only on battery it is 30A * 12.6V = 378W)

But assuming 414W input power and 85% efficiency on the dc-dc converters and 70% on the class ab amplifier then you would end up with a max (non-clipped) audio power of 246W. (225W @ 12.6V input)

1125WRMS I can't really see.

Well, maybe for a very short period of time before the fuse blows.

🙂
 
30A * 13.8V = 414W

(this assumes the alternator is keeping the battery at max. If only on battery it is 30A * 12.6V = 378W)

But assuming 414W input power and 85% efficiency on the dc-dc converters and 70% on the class ab amplifier then you would end up with a max (non-clipped) audio power of 246W. (225W @ 12.6V input)

1125WRMS I can't really see.

Well, maybe for a very short period of time before the fuse blows.

🙂

Thanks for the info, so it is around 400w in best scenario 😛.
 
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