Hello All,
My son is moving out and funds are tight for him, but he loves music and has a decent ear. So I am Donating a Kenwood DDX5901HD
Kenwood Excelon DDX5901HD DVD receiver at Crutchfield.com
that I've had sitting on the shelf for a while along with a pair of small two-way Axiom speakers. His plan is that as funds allow he'll squeeze every thing possible from this system.
Now to the point, I want to build a 12 volt, 20 amp or so power supply to drive the Kenwood, yes I know I could by a PC supply but I want to give him a non-switching linear sup ply in keeping with his aspirations of an SQ system.
Does anyone know of a schema, plan, kit or assembled PSU that would work for this project?
Thanks, K.S.
My son is moving out and funds are tight for him, but he loves music and has a decent ear. So I am Donating a Kenwood DDX5901HD
Kenwood Excelon DDX5901HD DVD receiver at Crutchfield.com
that I've had sitting on the shelf for a while along with a pair of small two-way Axiom speakers. His plan is that as funds allow he'll squeeze every thing possible from this system.
Now to the point, I want to build a 12 volt, 20 amp or so power supply to drive the Kenwood, yes I know I could by a PC supply but I want to give him a non-switching linear sup ply in keeping with his aspirations of an SQ system.
Does anyone know of a schema, plan, kit or assembled PSU that would work for this project?
Thanks, K.S.
Last edited:
Just use a battery charger, around 10 amps should be plenty, with a moderately large cap to filter the ripple.
Mike
Mike
BTW concur more like 12A or so with good caps on the output for peak loads.
you CAN NOT just use a battery charger and a cap. voltage will be around 19-20V
http://www.repeater-builder.com/astron/pdf/rs12a-bb-2000-01.pdf
you CAN NOT just use a battery charger and a cap. voltage will be around 19-20V
http://www.repeater-builder.com/astron/pdf/rs12a-bb-2000-01.pdf
Last edited:
That's non-sense, maximum charging voltage is 14.4 volts, more than that will destroy a 12 volt car battery. When I had a car deck running off a battery charger in my garage the only problem was excessive ripple which was minimized by adding more capacitance. I used that setup for a couple of years with no issues.
Mike
You might try looking for a used 12v Astron power supply on Craigslist, they are popular with the ham radio folks.
Less likely to hum like my battery charger does I would imagine.
Less likely to hum like my battery charger does I would imagine.
that's completely against my experience and extensive knowledge of wet lead acid tech and cheap manual battery chargers! If left unattended even at 14.4 V for long periods will destroy a battery, so that logic fails.
1) what i've seen most go above 15.2 on a fully charged battery. This is done on purpose, for what's called the 'equalization phase' this is very important for long term health on lightly used batteries. That's exactly why I prefer a manual over a smart charger, of all the smart chargers only the larger professional versions have a timed equalization or 4th stage.
2) BTW ALL manual chargers are NOT designed to be left on a battery for any extended times. . Ever read the charger instructions? I reckon some modern brands have lowered the voltage to help make it more dummy proof ie accidently left on for a 1-2 days. instead of 2-8 hours,
~13.7V is the ideal voltage to leave permanently on a lead acid battery at room temps.
Notice that some lead sulfate (sulfation) still remains on the plates. This build-up will continue after each recharging cycle and gradually the battery will begin to loose capacity to store a full charge and eventually must be replaced. Lead sulfate build up is reduced if battery is given an Equalizing Charge once every 10 discharge cycles or at least once a month. An Equalizing Charge increases charging voltage to 2.5V/cell for a short period. This higher voltage causes gassing that equalizes (re-mixes) the electrolyte solution.
1) what i've seen most go above 15.2 on a fully charged battery. This is done on purpose, for what's called the 'equalization phase' this is very important for long term health on lightly used batteries. That's exactly why I prefer a manual over a smart charger, of all the smart chargers only the larger professional versions have a timed equalization or 4th stage.
2) BTW ALL manual chargers are NOT designed to be left on a battery for any extended times. . Ever read the charger instructions? I reckon some modern brands have lowered the voltage to help make it more dummy proof ie accidently left on for a 1-2 days. instead of 2-8 hours,
~13.7V is the ideal voltage to leave permanently on a lead acid battery at room temps.
Notice that some lead sulfate (sulfation) still remains on the plates. This build-up will continue after each recharging cycle and gradually the battery will begin to loose capacity to store a full charge and eventually must be replaced. Lead sulfate build up is reduced if battery is given an Equalizing Charge once every 10 discharge cycles or at least once a month. An Equalizing Charge increases charging voltage to 2.5V/cell for a short period. This higher voltage causes gassing that equalizes (re-mixes) the electrolyte solution.
Last edited:
Speaking of batteries and sulfating on the plates, have you seen a product that's called "battery tune up"?
It was sold years ago and I havent seen it since, was effective at releasing the build up from the plates.
I just looked and there were four available Astronaut 12V units on the local CL, average price around $50.
It was sold years ago and I havent seen it since, was effective at releasing the build up from the plates.
I just looked and there were four available Astronaut 12V units on the local CL, average price around $50.
No I haven't what's the details on that?
I doubt anyone who claims to bring back an abused or ignored battery.
I just buy 1st tier batteries and then take care of them.
a "battery tender" is useful along with a monthly equalization charge
I doubt anyone who claims to bring back an abused or ignored battery.
I just buy 1st tier batteries and then take care of them.
a "battery tender" is useful along with a monthly equalization charge
Last edited:
Great info/options/discussion guys, thanks. I don't really like the idea of a battery charger as a long term solution so I'II buy the kid an Astron linear supply...model to be decided.
Thanks again and cheers.
K.S.
Thanks again and cheers.
K.S.
Slight change of plan, I picked up a 50 watt/channel vintage Rotel power amp at
the local swap meet...used for sure but sounds fine. So the Kenwood H/U will only be used as a Media Centre/pre-amp out to the Rotel.
In this case it makes sense to me that since the Kenwood's power amplifier is no longer in use the total PSU current requirements are reduced and we can concentrate to a higher degree on a high quality, low/medium current supply to power the Media Centre/pre-amp functions being used.
Make sense?
K.S.
the local swap meet...used for sure but sounds fine. So the Kenwood H/U will only be used as a Media Centre/pre-amp out to the Rotel.
In this case it makes sense to me that since the Kenwood's power amplifier is no longer in use the total PSU current requirements are reduced and we can concentrate to a higher degree on a high quality, low/medium current supply to power the Media Centre/pre-amp functions being used.
Make sense?
K.S.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.