Hi everyone, I have recently purchased 2 Pioneer PRS-D2000SPL amplifiers, and I'm having issues with both of them. I need to replace the driver IC on them both, but the TND505MD ICs are discontinued and I've found an old thread here saying that the guy replaced a TND505MD with an IR2110S, however a modification was done, and he worded it as connecting " the Ground and Common together on the IR2110" but I can only see a COM pin on the IR2110S, while the TND505MD has a GND pin, so I assume they are similar. However the IR2110S also has an additional pin that is in use, pin 15, and it's labeled Vss, while pin 15 on the TND505MD is simply not connected. Could someone with a little bit more knowledge be able to help me after comparing the TND505MD and the IR2110S datasheets and suggest how to modify it to work like a TND505MD. Thank you for reading.
Pin 2 and 15 are generally both connected to the negative rail. Pin 15 is the logic reference. Pin 2 is the low-side power supply reference.
Thank you for the reply. So I assume I should short pin 2 and 15 on the IR2110S, as pin 2 would be GND on the TND505MD? Would that cause any issue for pin 15, because in the service manual for the PRS-D2000SPL I can see pin 2 connects to -VH rail, which is about -110V?
Nothing goes to the 0v ground. 2 and 15 go to the negative rail. These (and most driver ICs) use the negative rail as their 'ground' (not to be confused with 0v grounds).
Thank you Perry, I've placed the IR2110S in now, with pin 2 and 15 shorted, and the amplifier turns on but it makes my subwoofer emit the loudest mid-to-high-pitch sound, with the amplifier itself buzzing as that happens and LED D402 on the power supply board flashing red repidly with each buzzing sound the board emits. I of course turn it off quickly, and when reducing the gain pot to about midway point, the LED doesn't flash anymore but stays on instead, with the speaker still emitting the same sound. When reducing the gain pot to below half, the LED doesn't switch on anymore at all, but the subwoofer still emits that loud noise. Any idea where I could start with the troubleshoot?
I have one purchased and it's on its way, but it might take a while. If you can think of anything that can be tested with a multimeter instead in the meantime, please let me know, if not I'll post again in this thread when my oscilloscope arrives. Thank you for everything Perry.
Transistor 2SC4081 @Q932 removed.
I'll now purchase a Hantek 6022BE oscilloscope from a source that will deliver it to me quicker than the one I've already purchased (as that one is from China... so yeah...) and I'll begin checking waveforms once it arrives in about a week hopefully.
I'll now purchase a Hantek 6022BE oscilloscope from a source that will deliver it to me quicker than the one I've already purchased (as that one is from China... so yeah...) and I'll begin checking waveforms once it arrives in about a week hopefully.
If you're going to go with a USB scope, the OWON VDS1022I (<<< I is very important) may be a better choice. The OWON has isolation so you can connect the scope ground to a point with voltage and not risk damaging the scope or the computer.
If the scope you listed is also isolated, it would be as good, in this regard.
If the scope you listed is also isolated, it would be as good, in this regard.
The Hantek unit is not isolated but I found it for €50 from Amazon over here while the Owon unit is around €95-100 so I'd prefer to stick with the Hantek and read up on how to correctly isolate it, I'll only be using it with a laptop that's disconnected from its charger so its running purely on battery. Would that work ok do you think?
You can use any 2-channel scope in differential mode and not need isolation but because you have to learn how to use it (easy but more than pushing a button).
Doing it by disconnecting the computer from the mains is still risky. If the computer has any exposed metal part, if that part contacts anything that's grounded, the computer may be badly damaged.
All I can do is make a suggestion.
Doing it by disconnecting the computer from the mains is still risky. If the computer has any exposed metal part, if that part contacts anything that's grounded, the computer may be badly damaged.
All I can do is make a suggestion.
I understand, I do have general knowledge of oscilloscopes, I've had a Hitachi V-252 but sold it about a year ago, as I was using it throughout my 4 years of university to get my B.Sc. in Electronics, so I won't be learning to use one from scratch, however I am no expert at all.
I'll read up on proper isolation tutorials, and will use a laptop with fully plastic outer shell, won't have anything else plugged into its USB, AUX, VGA or HDMI ports that might be grounded, proper precautions will be taken in other words.
I appreciate the advice Perry, without you I highly doubt I'll be able to get the amplifier running.
I'll read up on proper isolation tutorials, and will use a laptop with fully plastic outer shell, won't have anything else plugged into its USB, AUX, VGA or HDMI ports that might be grounded, proper precautions will be taken in other words.
I appreciate the advice Perry, without you I highly doubt I'll be able to get the amplifier running.
Your website is truly a vault of knowledge, I was going to head there to learn a bit more about scopes, the link is much appreciated! 🙂
I got myself a Tektronix 7633 with a 7A13, 7T11, 7S11 and 5B53A modules, the digital USB scope never arrived due to the whole COVID-19 so I picked the Tek scope locally, mint condition, very happy with the work of art that it is.
To get back on topic, I've removed the 2SC4081 @Q932 and now with a scope sitting beside me, could you guide me as to what the next step would be in troubleshooting the issue?
To get back on topic, I've removed the 2SC4081 @Q932 and now with a scope sitting beside me, could you guide me as to what the next step would be in troubleshooting the issue?
They did you a favor. If the scope you have is in good working order, it's a wonderful piece.
I couldn't find anything on the last plugin.
Did you get probes?
Is the amp staying on?
Do you see signal on the two inputs of the IC?
I couldn't find anything on the last plugin.
Did you get probes?
Is the amp staying on?
Do you see signal on the two inputs of the IC?
My bad, the last plugin is 7B53A, it's a Dual Time Base module. So far, I'm extremely happy with it as it's in immaculate condition as far as I can see, and I've cleaned out all the dust from the internals to help prolong its life. It seems like it was used in a test engineering company, being calibrated every year, and its last calibration is in 2012 so hopefully it's still within spec.
I do have a 1x and 100x probes, soon will get a couple of 1x/10x switchable probes as well.
I see a square wave on the HIN and LIN pins of the IR2110S, when measured with multimetre they are both at -114.7V.
I do have a 1x and 100x probes, soon will get a couple of 1x/10x switchable probes as well.
I see a square wave on the HIN and LIN pins of the IR2110S, when measured with multimetre they are both at -114.7V.
What is the frequency of the signal?
Does it modulate when you drive audio into it?
Those $5 switchable probes are perfectly fine for this work.
Does it modulate when you drive audio into it?
Those $5 switchable probes are perfectly fine for this work.
The frequency of the signals at HIN and LIN are both at 91kHz.
Once I plug in the RCAs and apply audio into them, the signal starts modulating.
Once I plug in the RCAs and apply audio into them, the signal starts modulating.