Hi,
I recently decided I want to upgrde my trusty Pioneer DV-414 player, but my preferred modifier (ModWright) is no longer willing to operate on that model -- decided it's too old.
I've got some info on resistors and capacitors to change, as well as a preferred opamp replacement for the output buffer; however, the original opamp is smt (surface mount) and I've zero experience with removing and replacing that.
Can someone give me some advise on how best to remove the existing 8 pin smt chip and then install a replacement? I can get the replacement in either an smt or DIP package, and I'm guessing the DIP will be less fragile to work with, but I could really do with some input from persons with experience doing this kind of thing. FYI -- my intended replacement is a Burr-Brown OPA 2134.
I'm open to general inputs on DV-414 upgrades as well. Primary goal is audio, secondary is video and digital. Is there an especially good pulse transformer to go with over the stock (presuming it would really make a difference)?
Thanks in advance -- Trevor 🙂
I recently decided I want to upgrde my trusty Pioneer DV-414 player, but my preferred modifier (ModWright) is no longer willing to operate on that model -- decided it's too old.
I've got some info on resistors and capacitors to change, as well as a preferred opamp replacement for the output buffer; however, the original opamp is smt (surface mount) and I've zero experience with removing and replacing that.
Can someone give me some advise on how best to remove the existing 8 pin smt chip and then install a replacement? I can get the replacement in either an smt or DIP package, and I'm guessing the DIP will be less fragile to work with, but I could really do with some input from persons with experience doing this kind of thing. FYI -- my intended replacement is a Burr-Brown OPA 2134.
I'm open to general inputs on DV-414 upgrades as well. Primary goal is audio, secondary is video and digital. Is there an especially good pulse transformer to go with over the stock (presuming it would really make a difference)?
Thanks in advance -- Trevor 🙂
Hello -
You want to get some stuff from Digi-Key called "QuikChip". It is a low-melting solder that contains bismuth. You blob it across all the pins and then run a normal soldering iron back and forth both sides. After a few passes the chip will just come loose. Then use some solder-wick to clean the pads. If you have very fine solder and a fine tip iron you can just solder the new part in directly. Otherwise add some (regular) solder to the solder-wick and "wipe" the pins from the inside to the outside with the iron on top. The solder will transfer to the pins.
Good luck,
Charles Hansen
You want to get some stuff from Digi-Key called "QuikChip". It is a low-melting solder that contains bismuth. You blob it across all the pins and then run a normal soldering iron back and forth both sides. After a few passes the chip will just come loose. Then use some solder-wick to clean the pads. If you have very fine solder and a fine tip iron you can just solder the new part in directly. Otherwise add some (regular) solder to the solder-wick and "wipe" the pins from the inside to the outside with the iron on top. The solder will transfer to the pins.
Good luck,
Charles Hansen
Thanx, Charles
Great information -- I had tried searching the web for ideas, but that seems like the simplest. I have to order from Digi-Key anyway (opamps, etc) and this will be my first run-in with solder wick -- they probably sell that as well. I have a spool of Wonder solder I got from Percy a few years back. My soldering iron has a fairly small point for electronic work, but isn't the temperature controlled solder station type. Looking at the tip, it's probably a little wide for individual smt pins (fine for DIP style packages) -- guess I could try filing it down.
Trevor 🙂
Great information -- I had tried searching the web for ideas, but that seems like the simplest. I have to order from Digi-Key anyway (opamps, etc) and this will be my first run-in with solder wick -- they probably sell that as well. I have a spool of Wonder solder I got from Percy a few years back. My soldering iron has a fairly small point for electronic work, but isn't the temperature controlled solder station type. Looking at the tip, it's probably a little wide for individual smt pins (fine for DIP style packages) -- guess I could try filing it down.
Trevor 🙂
Hello -
No, *don't* file your iron tip. It has a plating that will be destroyed.
If you can afford it, you will want to get a Metcal soldering iron. They are over $600 new, but you can get used ones on e-Bay for $100 to $150. These irons use a different system so they can get a full 50 watts of power down into a teeny little tip. These are by far the best irons I've used.
Your Wonder solder will be far too fat for SMT work. Order some fine stuff, like 0.015" or so. But if you only have a fat tip, use fat (Wonder) solder with the technique using the solder wick from my previous post.
Good luck,
Charles Hansen
No, *don't* file your iron tip. It has a plating that will be destroyed.
If you can afford it, you will want to get a Metcal soldering iron. They are over $600 new, but you can get used ones on e-Bay for $100 to $150. These irons use a different system so they can get a full 50 watts of power down into a teeny little tip. These are by far the best irons I've used.
Your Wonder solder will be far too fat for SMT work. Order some fine stuff, like 0.015" or so. But if you only have a fat tip, use fat (Wonder) solder with the technique using the solder wick from my previous post.
Good luck,
Charles Hansen
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