There doesn't seem to be any thread about this so here I go.
On many of the Pioneer amps from their blue line series (sa-7800, sa-8800 to just name 2) the paint around the fluorescent power meters is quite fragile and often has marks on them.
Are there any good methods of repainting/touching up, those parts ?
On many of the Pioneer amps from their blue line series (sa-7800, sa-8800 to just name 2) the paint around the fluorescent power meters is quite fragile and often has marks on them.
Are there any good methods of repainting/touching up, those parts ?
I guess no existing threads or replies because this isn't exactly a solid state issue - its an "other" really. Anyway....
The display bezel is usually a self-coloured plastic, either grey or black. However, if paint was used to get a better matching aluminium appearance, it probably didn't bond to the plastic and that's why it later peeled or rubbed off. The paint needs to be a solvent based automotive type, though this type is seldom used now on new vehicles for OHS reasons. The surface should be prepared by cleaning and scouring with a fine abrasive powder or a kitchen scouring pad to ensure the paint is also mechanically fixed to the plastic. I imagine small, suitable colour, metallic silver finish "touch-up" spray paint dispensers with a solvent base, are available in your car accessory shops.
It may be that the original paint was either unsuitable or the plastic not prepared properly for painting but in any case, you need to prepare the work carefully. From the many pics seen on the web though, examples of 7800, 8800 models seem to look the same with no obvious sign of paint loss but of course, pics can lie. Without inspecting it myself, I could not be certain of the best way to proceed but I would remove the front panel if necessary to gain access, then remove the plastic bezel moulding from the front panel if possible (it may be bonded with rubber cement or contact adhesive which could make that too difficult). Then clean and dull the plastic surface with scouring powder, dry off and spray with a couple of thin coats of automotive lacquer of the right colour match.
Otherwise, you will have to use carefully applied, thin masking tape to mask off the panel and the clear window covering the display. This may not give such a crisp edge or look so good but care with the exact positioning of the tape can improve results. Don't forget that you still need to clean and scour the plastic wherever the paint is required and that may require masking the whole front panel to protect it.
Yes, automotive paint is expensive and time consuming to prepare and apply but if you need a quality metallic finish that sticks, you probably also want it to look good, no?
The display bezel is usually a self-coloured plastic, either grey or black. However, if paint was used to get a better matching aluminium appearance, it probably didn't bond to the plastic and that's why it later peeled or rubbed off. The paint needs to be a solvent based automotive type, though this type is seldom used now on new vehicles for OHS reasons. The surface should be prepared by cleaning and scouring with a fine abrasive powder or a kitchen scouring pad to ensure the paint is also mechanically fixed to the plastic. I imagine small, suitable colour, metallic silver finish "touch-up" spray paint dispensers with a solvent base, are available in your car accessory shops.
It may be that the original paint was either unsuitable or the plastic not prepared properly for painting but in any case, you need to prepare the work carefully. From the many pics seen on the web though, examples of 7800, 8800 models seem to look the same with no obvious sign of paint loss but of course, pics can lie. Without inspecting it myself, I could not be certain of the best way to proceed but I would remove the front panel if necessary to gain access, then remove the plastic bezel moulding from the front panel if possible (it may be bonded with rubber cement or contact adhesive which could make that too difficult). Then clean and dull the plastic surface with scouring powder, dry off and spray with a couple of thin coats of automotive lacquer of the right colour match.
Otherwise, you will have to use carefully applied, thin masking tape to mask off the panel and the clear window covering the display. This may not give such a crisp edge or look so good but care with the exact positioning of the tape can improve results. Don't forget that you still need to clean and scour the plastic wherever the paint is required and that may require masking the whole front panel to protect it.
Yes, automotive paint is expensive and time consuming to prepare and apply but if you need a quality metallic finish that sticks, you probably also want it to look good, no?
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Hi Ian,
Sorry I didn't reply earlier, I've been away for a while. Thank you for that great advice.
It didn't really have a "pealed of appearance" rather more like it had been scratched of by accident when moving the amp or something. You can't always see it on the pictures online but I have seen a few of these amps and most of them had this although never as bad as mine.
I finally decides to get the part out of the faceplate, also removed the blue plastic, prepared the surface and applied to coats of aluminium effect spray paint with a final coating of shiny varnish and the result is not as good as the original but very decent non the less.
If I had the money I would have gone to a professional for this but that's not the case so this will have to do for now 🙂
Sorry I didn't reply earlier, I've been away for a while. Thank you for that great advice.
It didn't really have a "pealed of appearance" rather more like it had been scratched of by accident when moving the amp or something. You can't always see it on the pictures online but I have seen a few of these amps and most of them had this although never as bad as mine.
I finally decides to get the part out of the faceplate, also removed the blue plastic, prepared the surface and applied to coats of aluminium effect spray paint with a final coating of shiny varnish and the result is not as good as the original but very decent non the less.
If I had the money I would have gone to a professional for this but that's not the case so this will have to do for now 🙂
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