My first post here. Even if I have read the forums extensively before. I am recapping a Pioneer A400.
Originals power supply caps are ELNAs made for Pioneer 10000uF/50V so called Audio grade (ELNA ACH1152 CEW 85deg).
403 Forbidden
Decided to up the storage capacitance while confirming to footprint and diameter.
I wonder between this so called Nichicon Audio series (KG) and a general purpose Cornell Dubilier (CDE) which one would be a better performer. Considering CDE is 22000uF with higher ripple current at half the price
https://www.mouser.sg/ProductDetail/Cornell-Dubilier-CDE/380LX223M050A052/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvwFf0viD3Y3WPyvz8CmpD%2FW7xQi70ABWA%3D
vs Nichicon
https://www.mouser.sg/ProductDetail/Nichicon/LKG1H153MESCAK/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvwFf0viD3Y3RXRUVU1xXQDkzt%252ByEd7670%3D
Or even this
https://www.mouser.sg/ProductDetail/Nichicon/LKG1H153MKN/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvwFf0viD3Y3TGBqvvFdz90LkJq7wjot8pJSpSLoAvoMw%3D%3D
Which among them would be best for in your opinion? Going 22000uF per rail with CDE better that those Nichicon "For Audio" types?
Originals power supply caps are ELNAs made for Pioneer 10000uF/50V so called Audio grade (ELNA ACH1152 CEW 85deg).
403 Forbidden
Decided to up the storage capacitance while confirming to footprint and diameter.
I wonder between this so called Nichicon Audio series (KG) and a general purpose Cornell Dubilier (CDE) which one would be a better performer. Considering CDE is 22000uF with higher ripple current at half the price
https://www.mouser.sg/ProductDetail/Cornell-Dubilier-CDE/380LX223M050A052/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvwFf0viD3Y3WPyvz8CmpD%2FW7xQi70ABWA%3D
vs Nichicon
https://www.mouser.sg/ProductDetail/Nichicon/LKG1H153MESCAK/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvwFf0viD3Y3RXRUVU1xXQDkzt%252ByEd7670%3D
Or even this
https://www.mouser.sg/ProductDetail/Nichicon/LKG1H153MKN/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvwFf0viD3Y3TGBqvvFdz90LkJq7wjot8pJSpSLoAvoMw%3D%3D
Which among them would be best for in your opinion? Going 22000uF per rail with CDE better that those Nichicon "For Audio" types?
Original cap tolerances probably +50/-20%, some maybe +80/-20%, so going to 22kuf is a big jump, I'd be comfortable with 12-15kuf. Not a big fan of KG's, used them a few times but changed them out, tan delta/esr is a little high, have not used CDE. Happy with United Chemicon SMH or KMH series for the larger uf values.
Thanks for the reply. You think if I change the rectifier module out for discrete fast rectifiers (may be on a daughter board) don't you think I can safely go 22kUF?
This has a 7.1A ripple value compared to KG's 4.7A both specified at 120Hz.
This has a 7.1A ripple value compared to KG's 4.7A both specified at 120Hz.
How powerful is the trafo?
I've beefed up a few Pioneers lowish end AVR's with the original 6Ah/200v bridge https://www.mouser.se/ProductDetail/Taiwan-Semiconductor/TS6P03G/?qs=tHU/lV7kTyTPXEfl0cUjAA== and they could easily take an additional 22,000uF above the 6,800-8,200 that was already there.
Did not use Nichicon for this but have for other amps and they are perfectly good for this imho but I also think the that CDE ones will be good as well.
I've beefed up a few Pioneers lowish end AVR's with the original 6Ah/200v bridge https://www.mouser.se/ProductDetail/Taiwan-Semiconductor/TS6P03G/?qs=tHU/lV7kTyTPXEfl0cUjAA== and they could easily take an additional 22,000uF above the 6,800-8,200 that was already there.
Did not use Nichicon for this but have for other amps and they are perfectly good for this imho but I also think the that CDE ones will be good as well.
I am not sure the specs but I know it is quite an overkill for the amp.It's been widely written that this is a beefy transformer.
Very generalistic, I've probably changed the PS adding many uF on 20 amps from 100w to 1kw toriods and up to some serious 2.7kw smps supplies and never had an issue with startup current or break downs even after 10 years of everyday on and off service on some of them so very likely you will be fine with the 22,000uF (or even 200,000uF) however info on the trafo and diode bridge for your A400 is on the interweb so not a big thing to check it out before you try.
That said I found your 80w amp is sporting a beefy 500w trafo so you might not benefit that much from adding a lot of uf to the supply, some will say different but in my experience it won't hurt either. There might not be a change in sonic signature but you will get a new level of calm or quiet between the tones so to speak.
That said I found your 80w amp is sporting a beefy 500w trafo so you might not benefit that much from adding a lot of uf to the supply, some will say different but in my experience it won't hurt either. There might not be a change in sonic signature but you will get a new level of calm or quiet between the tones so to speak.
These are my 'go to' caps where space and voltage requirements allow.
Here's a Pioneer A-300 (and a Marantz PM-66SE KI)with the above caps installed;
https://files.diyaudio.com/forums/images/attach/jpg.gif
https://files.diyaudio.com/forums/images/attach/jpg.gif
MARANTZ PM-66SE KI Signature PSU Modifications
The transformers haven't melted, the bridge rectifiers haven't exploded (although I used a beefier bridge in the Marantz) and the amps sound better than they did with the original/dead audiophool caps.
To my surprise, the modified A-300 sounded considerably better than an unmodified PM66-SE KI - astonishingly so!!!
Good luck with the A-400!
