Hello everyone,
my BMW 7 series has a Logic7 DSP installed ex works. Now the amplifier ICs (similar to TDA1562 (2 pieces) for subwoofer and TDA8563 (also 2 pieces) for loudspeakers in the rear doors and central loudspeakers in the dashboard) in the DSP are broken.
The DSP consists of two boards, one with the bus connection (MOST ring) and the second with the whole amplifiers. I completely reverse engineered the second board.
So my idea now is to run the loudspeakers (connected to the two TDA8563) over a TDA7560 (4 channel) and to install an external amplifier for the subwoofers.
What do you think?
my BMW 7 series has a Logic7 DSP installed ex works. Now the amplifier ICs (similar to TDA1562 (2 pieces) for subwoofer and TDA8563 (also 2 pieces) for loudspeakers in the rear doors and central loudspeakers in the dashboard) in the DSP are broken.
The DSP consists of two boards, one with the bus connection (MOST ring) and the second with the whole amplifiers. I completely reverse engineered the second board.
So my idea now is to run the loudspeakers (connected to the two TDA8563) over a TDA7560 (4 channel) and to install an external amplifier for the subwoofers.
What do you think?
I think if you are going to that much effort you may as well go the whole hog and get component speakers, external amplifiers and a proper subwoofer in the boot.
I started off with the idea of amping up the under seat subwoofers and ended up with a fully triamped system using an decent head unit with an adapter box for my non-idrive BMW.
All the steering wheel controls work and there are no error codes on the computer.
It does depend on what sort of volume you prefer and what sort of bass balance but the stick speakers and amps run out steam just be losing a level I would call satisfactory.
At the very least replace the under seat subwoofers with Jehnerts and power them with a decent amplifier. I run a subwoofer in the boot so I bandpass mine from 80-200 but you could experiment with the crossover frequency to see what suits your front speakers.
The boot is well sealed from the cabin so if you do go for a boot subwoofer, get a high powered, high out put one or you’ll blow it pushing it too hard trying to keep up with the front stage and mid basses...😉😀
I started off with the idea of amping up the under seat subwoofers and ended up with a fully triamped system using an decent head unit with an adapter box for my non-idrive BMW.
All the steering wheel controls work and there are no error codes on the computer.
It does depend on what sort of volume you prefer and what sort of bass balance but the stick speakers and amps run out steam just be losing a level I would call satisfactory.
At the very least replace the under seat subwoofers with Jehnerts and power them with a decent amplifier. I run a subwoofer in the boot so I bandpass mine from 80-200 but you could experiment with the crossover frequency to see what suits your front speakers.
The boot is well sealed from the cabin so if you do go for a boot subwoofer, get a high powered, high out put one or you’ll blow it pushing it too hard trying to keep up with the front stage and mid basses...😉😀
Unfortunately, it's not that simple. It is an iDrive vehicle...
In total of 11 loudspeakers are installed:
There are two sound sources: radio and DSP.
These speakers are connected to the radio:
And at the DSP these:
The DSP receives the signal via a MOST ring, i.e. optically. DSP is not just an amplifier, it is also an equalizer, an active crossover and so on. It is a Freescale 24-bit audio signal processor installed in it.
The system sounds very good! It's just the problem that very cheap amplifier ICs (ICs without cabinet) have been used and will break after a few years. Simply throwing everything out is not an option, because it doesn't work and isn't necessary.
In total of 11 loudspeakers are installed:
- two tweeters in the front doors
- two midrange drivers in the front doors
- two midrange drivers in the rear doors
- two midrange drivers in the rear shelf
- central loudspeaker in dashboard
- two subwoofers under the front seats
There are two sound sources: radio and DSP.
These speakers are connected to the radio:
- two tweeters in the front doors
- two midrange drivers in the front doors
- two midrange drivers in the rear shelf
And at the DSP these:
- two midrange drivers in the rear doors
- central loudspeaker in dashboard
- two subwoofers under the front seats
The DSP receives the signal via a MOST ring, i.e. optically. DSP is not just an amplifier, it is also an equalizer, an active crossover and so on. It is a Freescale 24-bit audio signal processor installed in it.
The system sounds very good! It's just the problem that very cheap amplifier ICs (ICs without cabinet) have been used and will break after a few years. Simply throwing everything out is not an option, because it doesn't work and isn't necessary.
The ICs are designed to do precisely what they're doing. There is no reason for them to fail unless they get physically damaged. If you want to take the load off of them, use line output converters and use them to drive after-market amplifiers. If each speaker is driven by its own dedicated amplifier, this may take a lot of channels of amplification.
In theory, maybe, possibly.
Becker (developer and manufactor) took amplifier ICs without housing and bonded them directly to PCB, this looks like this:
The brown/black squares on the top and bottom edges are the amlifiers...
Yes, brilliant idea, thank you! And now tell me what it's gonna do if the output is dead?
It doesn't matter if one of the exits is dead or not, that's not the point! These ICs are the weak point of EVERY Logic7 DSP in E65, they break with EVERY DSP, sooner or later... And that's what this is all about.
Is it clear now?
Is it clear now?
Do you think so?
There's a very clear question. And when an answer comes that is completely over the top, it's a waste of time. The question wasn't whether it was possible to add an amplifier or something. Also not after a "high low converter".
You say "There is no reason for them to fail unless they get physically damaged", yes that's right. But rather say it to the 7er driver, who already has this power amplifier broken.
If you think that I have no respect for others, okay, then don't participate in this thread. 🙁 If you'd like to contribute something constructive, I'd love to.
There's a very clear question. And when an answer comes that is completely over the top, it's a waste of time. The question wasn't whether it was possible to add an amplifier or something. Also not after a "high low converter".
You say "There is no reason for them to fail unless they get physically damaged", yes that's right. But rather say it to the 7er driver, who already has this power amplifier broken.
If you think that I have no respect for others, okay, then don't participate in this thread. 🙁 If you'd like to contribute something constructive, I'd love to.
I have no desire to help disrespectful people. Even though I'm unfamiliar with this system, a few questions, answered may have led to some sort of solution.
All your questions were past the topic and absolutely not goal.... but okay, I am disrespectful...
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Well, isn’t this going well...😱😀
There being no mention of iDrive in your original post I thought to mention my setup whilst making it clear that my car was a non I drive model.
I avoided iDrive for this very reason in fact.
If you find the factory sound system acceptable sonically but just want more reliability then I’m afraid I can’t be of much help, I found even the top BMW system to be a bit low Fi for my tastes.
That coupled with the issues you raise about finding a decent clean signal meant I planned the audio before I bought the car rather than the other way around.
I did a google search for you and found this post on a bmw forum:
Audio Table of Contents: Upgrading? Start HERE!
It covers pretty much all of the options open to you in bypassing the factory amplifiers, if not modifying them.
There being no mention of iDrive in your original post I thought to mention my setup whilst making it clear that my car was a non I drive model.
I avoided iDrive for this very reason in fact.
If you find the factory sound system acceptable sonically but just want more reliability then I’m afraid I can’t be of much help, I found even the top BMW system to be a bit low Fi for my tastes.
That coupled with the issues you raise about finding a decent clean signal meant I planned the audio before I bought the car rather than the other way around.
I did a google search for you and found this post on a bmw forum:
Audio Table of Contents: Upgrading? Start HERE!
It covers pretty much all of the options open to you in bypassing the factory amplifiers, if not modifying them.
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