The M44 is popping fuses. I have not popped the cover off as it's a friends amp, but trying to proactive here and have some stuff to look over before checking it out.
Is there a place that all the diagrams are posted? if so can someone provide me with a link?
If not... I'm looking for schematics/diagrams for the following amplifiers. I've been searching google, but haven't found anything except the virus filled sites.
Rockford fosgate bd.1000
Phoenix Gold M44
Is there a place that all the diagrams are posted? if so can someone provide me with a link?
If not... I'm looking for schematics/diagrams for the following amplifiers. I've been searching google, but haven't found anything except the virus filled sites.
Rockford fosgate bd.1000
Phoenix Gold M44
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PG M44 I might be able to help you with the repair,whats the problem with the amp? I am sure I have seen most of them before.
We can only post uncopyrighted or publicly released things on the DIY, since we and the DIY don't own them we do not have the rights involved in most cases. PG I know never released anything publicly, ever, and even to this day. But I have been inside them M44 since they were brand new on the block, way back in the early 90's now...
You can find the BD 1000 on the Rockford repair site link below I believe its public and no virus's.
Rockford Corporation Technical Library CD
We can only post uncopyrighted or publicly released things on the DIY, since we and the DIY don't own them we do not have the rights involved in most cases. PG I know never released anything publicly, ever, and even to this day. But I have been inside them M44 since they were brand new on the block, way back in the early 90's now...
You can find the BD 1000 on the Rockford repair site link below I believe its public and no virus's.
Rockford Corporation Technical Library CD
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Yes that makes sense. Thank you for the site for the Rockford amp. Might have to find a mod to change the title of this thread... PG M44 help! or something haha!
The M44 is blowing fuses currently. It's one of my friends amplifiers that I'm going to look at. Was trying to be proactive if there was any schematics/diagrams available before picking it up. I'm guessing some FETS are blown. Anything in particular to look into besides the obvious blown fets with these M44's?
The M44 is blowing fuses currently. It's one of my friends amplifiers that I'm going to look at. Was trying to be proactive if there was any schematics/diagrams available before picking it up. I'm guessing some FETS are blown. Anything in particular to look into besides the obvious blown fets with these M44's?
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I did some further searching via google, and discovered quite a few people claim the "caps" were just replaced. Obviously did not specify which capacitors were replaced. I'm guessing they were plagued with the usual mid to late 80's through early to mid 90's leaky caps. Just like the ECU/ECM's in cars. haha
All the early PG amps used Panasonic FC type caps on the 12 volts side of the power supply. They do tend to leak and they do tend to burn up the PC board if they are not serviced regularly and replaced.
I replace them with 25 volt caps < PG used 16 volt caps< Most amp makers used higher voltage caps, and they all seemed to have less problems so I am using pak thinking and going with 25 or 35 volt caps when possible.
If your blowing fuses then either the supply fets are burnt or the caps are burnt and I have seen both go together on occasion. Also when a amps supply fails your also possibly looking at a bad channels outputs also or some other culprit to cause this chain of events.
but plan on replacing the 2200ufd 16 volt caps with something newer and if possible slightly higher voltage rated. The purpose of the possible bad caps is to filter RF noise off the 12 volt rails that any car amp can make. They are not large enough to perform any other function. So they tend to heat up inside doing their job, so only use 105C or better rated caps and I use higher voltage FC's and some special installation to prevent the boards from becoming damaged if they do leak.
You get the amp and post some pics I will help you if you like. It wont be my first rodeo lol lol lol...
I would just like to add that all caps can leak when they see too much internal heating. The Panasonic Fc brand has some the best specification of any cap made out there so its probably a stressful usage that is causing this issue and I have rarely seen it in amps under 5 years of age, but your M-44 is likely going on 20+ years old now, so that's a lot of dog years to a wet capacitor...😉
I replace them with 25 volt caps < PG used 16 volt caps< Most amp makers used higher voltage caps, and they all seemed to have less problems so I am using pak thinking and going with 25 or 35 volt caps when possible.
If your blowing fuses then either the supply fets are burnt or the caps are burnt and I have seen both go together on occasion. Also when a amps supply fails your also possibly looking at a bad channels outputs also or some other culprit to cause this chain of events.
but plan on replacing the 2200ufd 16 volt caps with something newer and if possible slightly higher voltage rated. The purpose of the possible bad caps is to filter RF noise off the 12 volt rails that any car amp can make. They are not large enough to perform any other function. So they tend to heat up inside doing their job, so only use 105C or better rated caps and I use higher voltage FC's and some special installation to prevent the boards from becoming damaged if they do leak.
You get the amp and post some pics I will help you if you like. It wont be my first rodeo lol lol lol...
I would just like to add that all caps can leak when they see too much internal heating. The Panasonic Fc brand has some the best specification of any cap made out there so its probably a stressful usage that is causing this issue and I have rarely seen it in amps under 5 years of age, but your M-44 is likely going on 20+ years old now, so that's a lot of dog years to a wet capacitor...😉
Thank you for the information. Once I get a hold of this bad boy (which is hopefully this week) I'll see what's all blown/broken/disintegrated inside lol
I guess the story goes the guy let someone borrow the amplifier, and hooked the power/ground up backwards.
I guess the story goes the guy let someone borrow the amplifier, and hooked the power/ground up backwards.
You will likely see blown fets, exploded caps < the leaky ones, and they will be vented at the top now if RP has happened. Then there are the gate resistors < 100 ohm 1/4 w > they are fuse type and special they will open up and not show any sign of failure you must meter them out, and or replaced them, along with any green or grey bodied fuse resistors you may see in the supply area. And you might look for blown open traces on both sides of the board, its rare but if the wet caps were leaking the traces might have been weakened and the surge might have flashed something open. CR1 will likely be toast its a simple RP diode 1n5401...
Not my first rodeo lol lol lol...Looking forward to helping you out😉
Not my first rodeo lol lol lol...Looking forward to helping you out😉
Well as much as I appreciate the offer with the help. I'm going to guess he no longer wants to try and fix it. I asked him numerous times, but it appears as a no go 🙁 I really wanted to try this one too. Figured I'd at least end this thread before it goes off into "never completed" status
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