Hi all,
Anyone has used the Peerless XLS 10” CAR (830514) as home sub? I got such a beast (real nice, bone hard suspension) and I could use some input for using it in a vented box as a home sub. In a 25 l box, I could get an f3 of around 35 Hz.
Thanks,
Dirk
Anyone has used the Peerless XLS 10” CAR (830514) as home sub? I got such a beast (real nice, bone hard suspension) and I could use some input for using it in a vented box as a home sub. In a 25 l box, I could get an f3 of around 35 Hz.
Thanks,
Dirk
I think that you sub would be a bit boomy in a vented enclosure that small. With a box of 49 liters tuned to 22.5 Hz the frequency response will be flat in room to about 20 Hz, and down at -3 dB at 19 Hz.
I forgot to tell you that you'll need to use a steep rumble filter to prevent overexcursion.
A butterworth second order high-pass filter set at 20 Hz will be enough for 250W RMS amplifier. You still achieve very good performance in room, with a -3 dB point in-room at about 19 Hz.
If you want to use more power, a fourth order Linkwitz-Riley high-pass filter set at 20 Hz will protect the cone from overexcursion up to 500W RMS. You still achieve very good performance in room, with a -3 dB point in-room at about 20 Hz.
A butterworth second order high-pass filter set at 20 Hz will be enough for 250W RMS amplifier. You still achieve very good performance in room, with a -3 dB point in-room at about 19 Hz.
If you want to use more power, a fourth order Linkwitz-Riley high-pass filter set at 20 Hz will protect the cone from overexcursion up to 500W RMS. You still achieve very good performance in room, with a -3 dB point in-room at about 20 Hz.
There's not a lot of difference between the car and home audio version, the main thing is the impedance. Whenever I've modelled the two side by side, the difference is tiny.
Be careful as apparently it drops down to half of its nominal impedance. Hence you need a 2 ohm stable amp, or so I'm told.
The XLS works in a small box but rolls off quite early. With a bit of fiddling you can get extra depth for HT if you want, but with the XLS it MAY require a bit of eq due to the early rolloff.
Whether or not it is boomy will depend as well on room modes, room gain etc, probably more so in fact.
I suggest do some modelling in WinISD pro and if you are unsure, post some results (printed screenshot) so we can comment or give more feedback. If you have a suitable amp this should work fine.
Be careful as apparently it drops down to half of its nominal impedance. Hence you need a 2 ohm stable amp, or so I'm told.
The XLS works in a small box but rolls off quite early. With a bit of fiddling you can get extra depth for HT if you want, but with the XLS it MAY require a bit of eq due to the early rolloff.
Whether or not it is boomy will depend as well on room modes, room gain etc, probably more so in fact.
I suggest do some modelling in WinISD pro and if you are unsure, post some results (printed screenshot) so we can comment or give more feedback. If you have a suitable amp this should work fine.
Thanks Simon and Paul,
I can indeed get some more LF extension in a larger box (around 45l) but the FR looks far better when it's tuned higher than 22.5Hz.
Are you both sure we are talking about the same driver? At least on paper, there is a HUGE difference in TS parameters between the home and car version of the XLS10.
Regards,
Dirk
I can indeed get some more LF extension in a larger box (around 45l) but the FR looks far better when it's tuned higher than 22.5Hz.
Are you both sure we are talking about the same driver? At least on paper, there is a HUGE difference in TS parameters between the home and car version of the XLS10.
Regards,
Dirk
If you model them both in WinISD pro, there's not much difference as I recall ...
better in what way exactly?
It's not always quite so straightforward what is actually better ...
better in what way exactly?
It's not always quite so straightforward what is actually better ...
I modeled the TS parameters on the XLS10 car subwoofer specsheet using the model number you gave.
Your 25 L box give good FR but not much extension. I have to retract my statement, it will not sound boomy, the FR looks great. At what exact frequency you want to tune it?
At 49 L it's almost the same FR except with alot of extension down low. The rolloff is a little bit faster and I think it would match better with room gain. You lose about 0.6 dB at the peak around 125 Hz.
Your 25 L box give good FR but not much extension. I have to retract my statement, it will not sound boomy, the FR looks great. At what exact frequency you want to tune it?
At 49 L it's almost the same FR except with alot of extension down low. The rolloff is a little bit faster and I think it would match better with room gain. You lose about 0.6 dB at the peak around 125 Hz.
Paul,
You're right! I just quickly tried both in WinISD pro, and - even with these different TS parameters - they behave remakably similar.
Better? The frequency response is a lot flatter when it is tuned to 30Hz or so, but sound-wise?? Unfortunately, I can't try them all! Therefore, I was asking for some experiences here...
Simon,
I was going to tune the 25l-box at around 35Hz.
Regards,
Dirk
You're right! I just quickly tried both in WinISD pro, and - even with these different TS parameters - they behave remakably similar.
Better? The frequency response is a lot flatter when it is tuned to 30Hz or so, but sound-wise?? Unfortunately, I can't try them all! Therefore, I was asking for some experiences here...
Simon,
I was going to tune the 25l-box at around 35Hz.
Regards,
Dirk
Remember that flat anechoic will give you more output in dB at the tuning frequency than at your crossover with the mains in a normal room. But then, 49 liters is big for some people.
Good luck!
Good luck!
I'm not sure if it's been pointed out but watch the impedance. According to Wes components who supply the XLS in Australia, the 8 ohm XLS drops down to 4 and I think this also happens with the car version ... so you need stable down to 2 ohms. This is a real pest. I like the use an amp stable down to 2 ohms for a 4 ohm driver anyway as a safety margin.
Paul,
I only realised this was really a 2 Ohm driver after I bought it, together with a small plate amp (Thommessen Proteus 0.8, essentially a TDA7294).
I tried the driver in a 25 l particle board box, tuned to about 35 Hz and it works fine, the amp turns hot very quickly, though (as expected). I have a nice handmade 1 mH coil (2mm wire) lying around, I want to put it in series: little influence around the resonance frequency, but about 1 Ohm extra at the impedance minimum (according to specs: 2,4 Ohm at 133Hz, but I want to measure this myself).
Regards and happy New Year to all,
Dirk
I only realised this was really a 2 Ohm driver after I bought it, together with a small plate amp (Thommessen Proteus 0.8, essentially a TDA7294).
I tried the driver in a 25 l particle board box, tuned to about 35 Hz and it works fine, the amp turns hot very quickly, though (as expected). I have a nice handmade 1 mH coil (2mm wire) lying around, I want to put it in series: little influence around the resonance frequency, but about 1 Ohm extra at the impedance minimum (according to specs: 2,4 Ohm at 133Hz, but I want to measure this myself).
Regards and happy New Year to all,
Dirk
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