Hello,
Would anyone like to share their opinions on a general upgrade path for any std CD player?
I'm thinking......
1. Replace DC blocking electrolytics with MKS,MKT or MKP's.
2. Opamps (if applicable).
3. Clock & PSU.
4. DAC decoupling with Oscons.
5. Regulator decoupling with Panasonic FC's.
6. ZA's for coupling.
7. Damping.
Anyone agree?
Anyone have their own path?
Would anyone like to share their opinions on a general upgrade path for any std CD player?
I'm thinking......
1. Replace DC blocking electrolytics with MKS,MKT or MKP's.
2. Opamps (if applicable).
3. Clock & PSU.
4. DAC decoupling with Oscons.
5. Regulator decoupling with Panasonic FC's.
6. ZA's for coupling.
7. Damping.
Anyone agree?
Anyone have their own path?
I would only bother at all if the DAC is of new generation and top of the line. Then caps and op-amps may be in order. Not knowing your exact unit, can't tell, but separation of analog and digital power is considered wise. Ground path and power star distribution. Some have transistor mute circuits that are considered bad.
Just replacing op-amps is not all there is to it. You must test in board if the compensation is correct. Wander over to the diyAudio forum under chip-amps for advice. Newer chips properly used are very good. Kind of killed the discrete vs chip argument in my book. It also depends if the board in your CD has DIP or surface mount chips. Being an old foggy, I am not skilled in surface mount rework. It was invented after I got my certification.
So, if your CD does not have the most current top of the line BB, Wolf, Crystal DAC, just buy an outboard DAC off e-bay that does. I bought the one labeled "Muse headphone USB DAC" and am very happy with it. Sounds as good as my Rotel 1070.
You are on the right track, analog first. Just evaluate if the unit in question is worth the cost and effort. You can buy a lot of room treatment for what a handful of good caps costs 😀 Give the forum a hint and mention the CD in question. Someone may know it and have more precise answers.
Just replacing op-amps is not all there is to it. You must test in board if the compensation is correct. Wander over to the diyAudio forum under chip-amps for advice. Newer chips properly used are very good. Kind of killed the discrete vs chip argument in my book. It also depends if the board in your CD has DIP or surface mount chips. Being an old foggy, I am not skilled in surface mount rework. It was invented after I got my certification.
So, if your CD does not have the most current top of the line BB, Wolf, Crystal DAC, just buy an outboard DAC off e-bay that does. I bought the one labeled "Muse headphone USB DAC" and am very happy with it. Sounds as good as my Rotel 1070.
You are on the right track, analog first. Just evaluate if the unit in question is worth the cost and effort. You can buy a lot of room treatment for what a handful of good caps costs 😀 Give the forum a hint and mention the CD in question. Someone may know it and have more precise answers.
Done in old ones, with outstanding results and minimal fuzz and cost:
1. if offset at buffer out is low (0 - 10mv) and equal for both channels, Bypass ALL With a direct link with only a good metal film resistor in series (200 - 500ohms) to the output jack. * no more cap and muting transistos in one move
2. PSU and general cap swapping (bigger values and voltages)
3. Decoupling OPs
This brings you near 85% of what's possible, easy and cheap.
4. Common sense
If the machine is worth it.... All you want....
Cheers,
Marcelo
1. if offset at buffer out is low (0 - 10mv) and equal for both channels, Bypass ALL With a direct link with only a good metal film resistor in series (200 - 500ohms) to the output jack. * no more cap and muting transistos in one move
2. PSU and general cap swapping (bigger values and voltages)
3. Decoupling OPs
This brings you near 85% of what's possible, easy and cheap.
4. Common sense
If the machine is worth it.... All you want....
Cheers,
Marcelo
Outboard DAC
Yes, I agree here. Going inside a modern player is going to be much harder work than getting a cheaper, non-SMT DAC and upgrading that. Jitter is going to be the main problem in choosing an outboard DAC, so go for one which uses a decent, low-jitter SPDIF receiver. That probably means not CS... I'm getting good results from a heavily modded cheap DAC with a DIR9001, it beats the pants off my old Sony DVD player which has quite a decent AKM DAC.
Yes, I agree here. Going inside a modern player is going to be much harder work than getting a cheaper, non-SMT DAC and upgrading that. Jitter is going to be the main problem in choosing an outboard DAC, so go for one which uses a decent, low-jitter SPDIF receiver. That probably means not CS... I'm getting good results from a heavily modded cheap DAC with a DIR9001, it beats the pants off my old Sony DVD player which has quite a decent AKM DAC.
A bit harsh maybe. You are staring with a very good unit. Not much you can do that will be audible. ( plenty of hocus-pocus but fortunately you have been spared that). It is not like the old Phillips days where every part needed help. Clean up the analog out is about it. I do not know the Crystal DAC, but from what I have been able to hear with my own ears, the top line of the last two or so generations between Crystal, Burr-Brown and Wolfson are similar in quality. Some hear differences in character, but not with my speakers or ears.
I have an outboard DAC with the DR9001 and Burr Brown DAC and op amps. As good as I think it sounds, I would not venture a claim it is an improvement over what you have. It stomps my NAD C520 which is why it is going back into my office system now I finally got my "new" NAD C740 receiver. unless I break down and buy a actual new CD.
I have an outboard DAC with the DR9001 and Burr Brown DAC and op amps. As good as I think it sounds, I would not venture a claim it is an improvement over what you have. It stomps my NAD C520 which is why it is going back into my office system now I finally got my "new" NAD C740 receiver. unless I break down and buy a actual new CD.
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