I searched first!
1. Do crossover parts ever deteriorate? I have a pair of JBL S312 speakers. I replaced the woofers with a pair of Mavin 12" 8ohm woofers. I've had the speakers for around 20 years. Do the electronic components in the crossovers deteriorate with time and use?
2. I have new crossovers meant for JBL LXE990/ARC90 speakers. Those speakers are rated at 200 watts. Does that also apply to the crossovers? Can they handle 250 watts? I wanted to use these because the mid starts at 850 instead of 800, hoping to get more db from the 75-watt mids by not having to produce the fequencies between 800-850hz. I thought this based on the principle that lower frequencies require more watts for the same sound pressure.
3. I plan on bi-amping at a future date. Will passive crossovers work with the woofer not hooked up? Do I need to put an 8ohm resistor in the place of the woofer to make it work?
If it won't work like that, I'll have to buy a rack-mount crossover. No problem, just trying to save a little bit.
1. Do crossover parts ever deteriorate? I have a pair of JBL S312 speakers. I replaced the woofers with a pair of Mavin 12" 8ohm woofers. I've had the speakers for around 20 years. Do the electronic components in the crossovers deteriorate with time and use?
2. I have new crossovers meant for JBL LXE990/ARC90 speakers. Those speakers are rated at 200 watts. Does that also apply to the crossovers? Can they handle 250 watts? I wanted to use these because the mid starts at 850 instead of 800, hoping to get more db from the 75-watt mids by not having to produce the fequencies between 800-850hz. I thought this based on the principle that lower frequencies require more watts for the same sound pressure.
3. I plan on bi-amping at a future date. Will passive crossovers work with the woofer not hooked up? Do I need to put an 8ohm resistor in the place of the woofer to make it work?
If it won't work like that, I'll have to buy a rack-mount crossover. No problem, just trying to save a little bit.
1. If it has electrolytic capacitors you should replace them.
2. Don't worry about power handling, it should be fine.
3. Probably you don't need resistor, because it is probably parallel crossover.
2. Don't worry about power handling, it should be fine.
3. Probably you don't need resistor, because it is probably parallel crossover.
Why waste time fussing with a passive crossover?
Bi-amping with the passive crossover elements in place (like lurking inside the box) counter-acts some of the advantages of bi-amping. So you definitely don't want to do that.
Might as well start by having terminals on the box wired directly to the drivers. If you have an interim passive crossover, just duct-tape it to the back of the box until you get your DSP and bi-amp pieces together.
B.
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I have spare terminal blocks, another Yamaha amp, and a spare set of crossovers. I'm just brainstorming, as I can do all of this with parts I already have.
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