Ladies(if there is any🙂 & Gentlemen:
I've got a pair of HIVI M4N and wanna build a pair of sealed box, but when i input the parameters into winISD then I've got a 121l of box volume, it seemed something wrong, I input the params into a web calculator, I got negative box volume, is there anybody can tell me why?
BTW: I think those results were caused by the Qts which as 1.08, is it wright? what can I do for calculate the correct box volume?
Any feedback will be great appreciated, thanks for reading.
FYI:
HIVI M4N: http://www.hiviresearch.com/driver/htm/buglelist.php?type=11
Web cauculator which gave me negative box volume(not the calculator's fault): Speaker Box Calculations
I've got a pair of HIVI M4N and wanna build a pair of sealed box, but when i input the parameters into winISD then I've got a 121l of box volume, it seemed something wrong, I input the params into a web calculator, I got negative box volume, is there anybody can tell me why?
BTW: I think those results were caused by the Qts which as 1.08, is it wright? what can I do for calculate the correct box volume?
Any feedback will be great appreciated, thanks for reading.
FYI:
HIVI M4N: http://www.hiviresearch.com/driver/htm/buglelist.php?type=11
Web cauculator which gave me negative box volume(not the calculator's fault): Speaker Box Calculations
Hi,
You will get a negative box volume if driver Qts is higher that the box Q target.
with a Vas of ~ 4.5L your looking at a sealed box around 6L or some pretty
wacky vented alignments up to 9L.
Typical calculators go for Qbox of 0.7, your looking at =1.4 6L, =1.3 9L.
TBH there not a lot of real difference between the two, both bass peak.
6L sealed gives you a 3 dB hump around 100Hz. 9L vented at 50Hz gives
loads more bass and will probably works best as a power handling alignment
combined with the 80Hz setting of an AV amplifier (small).
Without AV a bass bump can compensate for no bass lower down.
rgds, sreten.
You will get a negative box volume if driver Qts is higher that the box Q target.
with a Vas of ~ 4.5L your looking at a sealed box around 6L or some pretty
wacky vented alignments up to 9L.
Typical calculators go for Qbox of 0.7, your looking at =1.4 6L, =1.3 9L.
TBH there not a lot of real difference between the two, both bass peak.
6L sealed gives you a 3 dB hump around 100Hz. 9L vented at 50Hz gives
loads more bass and will probably works best as a power handling alignment
combined with the 80Hz setting of an AV amplifier (small).
Without AV a bass bump can compensate for no bass lower down.
rgds, sreten.
HI Sreten:
for here understood, so can i ask you what sounds different for a speaker system at a 0.7 and 1.x in Qtc?
And here can i do anything to reduce the Qtc down to 0.7 for the enclosure?
Wht the manufacturer design those drivers on such a high Qts? What's the advantage of such a high Q drivers?
Unfortunately i don't have any AV amp, i drive my bookshelves on a DIY LM1875 amp.
Thank you very much for your reply🙂
for here understood, so can i ask you what sounds different for a speaker system at a 0.7 and 1.x in Qtc?
And here can i do anything to reduce the Qtc down to 0.7 for the enclosure?
Wht the manufacturer design those drivers on such a high Qts? What's the advantage of such a high Q drivers?
Unfortunately i don't have any AV amp, i drive my bookshelves on a DIY LM1875 amp.
Thank you very much for your reply🙂
Hi,
The easiest way of making a high Q driver is taking a decent driver
and fitting it with an undersized magnet, its cheap and cheerful.
I suspect the driver is developed for HT systems.
Used as a mid only the bass peak would be less troublesome.
The B4N seems a decent driver, but needs a clever crossover :
https://sites.google.com/site/undefinition/diy-overnightsensations
One approach would be undersize your amplifiers input capacitor,
set it for 100Hz, i.e. -3dB at 100Hz. This would combine with
the driver to be flat to 100Hz, and then a 3rd order roll-off
below that, but you ideally need a sub for real bass.
rgds, sreten,
The easiest way of making a high Q driver is taking a decent driver
and fitting it with an undersized magnet, its cheap and cheerful.
I suspect the driver is developed for HT systems.
Used as a mid only the bass peak would be less troublesome.
The B4N seems a decent driver, but needs a clever crossover :
https://sites.google.com/site/undefinition/diy-overnightsensations
One approach would be undersize your amplifiers input capacitor,
set it for 100Hz, i.e. -3dB at 100Hz. This would combine with
the driver to be flat to 100Hz, and then a 3rd order roll-off
below that, but you ideally need a sub for real bass.
rgds, sreten,
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Hi Sreten:
please tell me undersize to what criteria? undersize to the suggested 5l box? or what?
and the like you quoted was unreachable here, was it hivi b4n?
thanks.
please tell me undersize to what criteria? undersize to the suggested 5l box? or what?
and the like you quoted was unreachable here, was it hivi b4n?
thanks.
Hi,
At Parte Express the B4N is the same price as the M4N and seems in all respects
a better choice than the M4N, especially regarding published designs for it.
Compare the weights of the 2 drivers, the M4N must have smaller fitted magnets.
The tricky c/o used on the B4N implies something similar is needed for the M4N.
M4N : http://www.parts-express.com/pdf/297-434.pdf
TBH if building something I'd bite the bullet and go for the B4N, lower Fs,
lower Qts, higher sensitivity (+ 3dB) all add up to a much better driver.
Both drivers need clever work in the crossover to work properly.
rgds, sreten.
At Parte Express the B4N is the same price as the M4N and seems in all respects
a better choice than the M4N, especially regarding published designs for it.
Compare the weights of the 2 drivers, the M4N must have smaller fitted magnets.
The tricky c/o used on the B4N implies something similar is needed for the M4N.
M4N : http://www.parts-express.com/pdf/297-434.pdf
TBH if building something I'd bite the bullet and go for the B4N, lower Fs,
lower Qts, higher sensitivity (+ 3dB) all add up to a much better driver.
Both drivers need clever work in the crossover to work properly.
rgds, sreten.
Hi,
I have to repost : https://sites.google.com/site/undefinition/diy-overnightsensations
Lots of information ; Lots of options ; Great $24 cabinet options ; You can't go wrong.
Even on PE there are loads more actually useful files on the B4N for rolling your own.
The c/o is so tricky for both IMO you might as well give up on the M4N, go for the B4N.
In terms of time, effort, confusion and being happy I highly recommend this action.
rgds, sreten.
I have to repost : https://sites.google.com/site/undefinition/diy-overnightsensations
Lots of information ; Lots of options ; Great $24 cabinet options ; You can't go wrong.
Even on PE there are loads more actually useful files on the B4N for rolling your own.
The c/o is so tricky for both IMO you might as well give up on the M4N, go for the B4N.
In terms of time, effort, confusion and being happy I highly recommend this action.
rgds, sreten.
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