Hello,
I am trying to replace the main capacitors from this receiver.
In order to do that I need to disconnect several jumpers.
Maybe really stupid, I cannot get the jumpers loose.
See pictures.
Is there anyone who can help me out?
Thanks in advance,
best regards
I am trying to replace the main capacitors from this receiver.
In order to do that I need to disconnect several jumpers.
Maybe really stupid, I cannot get the jumpers loose.
See pictures.
Is there anyone who can help me out?
Thanks in advance,
best regards
Attachments
I have always found away to carefully position all the parts/amp so that I don’t have to remove the pin headers. It isn’t always easy however.
omg 🙄
It's hard to 100% tell whether you've already released a locking type (by lifting up the rear part or it's a spring loaded type but.....
You just push down on the spring loaded back part and the flat cable will release
It's hard to 100% tell whether you've already released a locking type (by lifting up the rear part or it's a spring loaded type but.....
You just push down on the spring loaded back part and the flat cable will release
Dear Phase,
There seems no other way then to disconnect the flatcable in order to replace the caps.
best regards
There seems no other way then to disconnect the flatcable in order to replace the caps.
best regards
Normally just lift the liftable part to the unclamped position (you do NOT remove it), then the wire ends of the cable are not clamped, so it can simply be pulled out of the receptacle ....
The wire ends often get 'stuck' in the metal 'jaws', once you have moved the plastic clamp to the unclamped position, just pul the wire upwards and out.
The two parts of the connector stay on the board at all times.
(There is another molex connector that is spring loaded , and all you do with that type is push down on the highest part , then remove the cable by lifting out,even on this type the two plastic parts stay firmly on the board)
Just show me another (same) connector before you touched it with cable still in place (there will be others in the product), so I can confirm which type it is, it's not 100% clear from the poor pics.
The wire ends often get 'stuck' in the metal 'jaws', once you have moved the plastic clamp to the unclamped position, just pul the wire upwards and out.
The two parts of the connector stay on the board at all times.
(There is another molex connector that is spring loaded , and all you do with that type is push down on the highest part , then remove the cable by lifting out,even on this type the two plastic parts stay firmly on the board)
Just show me another (same) connector before you touched it with cable still in place (there will be others in the product), so I can confirm which type it is, it's not 100% clear from the poor pics.
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Dear MikePP,
Thank you for your reply.
I placed back the clamp. See picture...
It makes sense to move the clamp up and just pull out the flatcable. I used full force but it didn't work. I am afraid I will break the pcb if I use excessive force....
What to do?
Best regards
Thank you for your reply.
I placed back the clamp. See picture...
It makes sense to move the clamp up and just pull out the flatcable. I used full force but it didn't work. I am afraid I will break the pcb if I use excessive force....
What to do?
Best regards
Attachments
I'm still not sure which type it is from the photo.
OK, do this:
Try pushing down on the part of the plastic I've arrowed, if it feel spring loaded , then push fully down and pull the cable out.
If it's the non spring loaded version, lift the arrowed part to the unlocked position, then pull the cable out.
I repeat they do sometimes get locked into the jaws after being clamped in there for the majority of its life, the clamps cut into the tinned bare wire and act as barbs.. If its the non spring loaded version, just pull and prepare for the cable to suddenly release Use your other fingers to push away from the board rather than just pulling, so you're using controlled force.
OK, do this:
Try pushing down on the part of the plastic I've arrowed, if it feel spring loaded , then push fully down and pull the cable out.
If it's the non spring loaded version, lift the arrowed part to the unlocked position, then pull the cable out.
I repeat they do sometimes get locked into the jaws after being clamped in there for the majority of its life, the clamps cut into the tinned bare wire and act as barbs.. If its the non spring loaded version, just pull and prepare for the cable to suddenly release Use your other fingers to push away from the board rather than just pulling, so you're using controlled force.
Attachments
Last edited:
Yes, the first option did the trick! 
I had to push the clamp down and pull out.
Thank you ever so much! Cheers
I had to push the clamp down and pull out.
Thank you ever so much! Cheers
Onkyo TX-84 repair ... need help again
Hello MikePP, can you help me out again...?
I replaced the power caps succesfully, soldered the power transistors, cleaned the volume pot and adjusted the quiescent current...
When I turn on the receiver on low volume, the right channel has no sound, the left channel is allright.
If I turn up the volume, music on the right channel comes through. And after a while the balance is fine, or so it seems.
Any idea where to look? Could it be a thermall issue?
Hello MikePP, can you help me out again...?
I replaced the power caps succesfully, soldered the power transistors, cleaned the volume pot and adjusted the quiescent current...
When I turn on the receiver on low volume, the right channel has no sound, the left channel is allright.
If I turn up the volume, music on the right channel comes through. And after a while the balance is fine, or so it seems.
Any idea where to look? Could it be a thermall issue?
Onkyo TX-84 repair .. need help
Thank you junior33!
I'll try to clean the relays, I'll let you know...
Thank you junior33!
I'll try to clean the relays, I'll let you know...