Hi,
I have one tweeter (left) that consistently fails at loud volume. The right never does. The tweeter is this one (Peerless by Tymphany D19TD-05 3/4" Poly Dome Tweeter), and the speakers are PSB300s, running from a DENON AVR-900 (100 W per channel). Source for the failure is usually the turntable (THORENS TD 150 MKII A/B - rebuilt by me). But it does happen with the DENON CD deck. Speaker wire is vanilla WalMart Phillips 18 G braieded copper speaker wire. One thing that I did do (before I knew not to do it) was that I cut the right speaker wire shorter than the left to prevent excessive coiling of the right spk wire; amp is on the right hand side of the room.
Question: Is the differential in the speaker wire to blame, or is it that I've got the amp cranked up too high (max) for the speakers?
The rating on the speakers is "Rated for 10-80 Watts at 6 Ohms Impedance."
Thanks.
I have one tweeter (left) that consistently fails at loud volume. The right never does. The tweeter is this one (Peerless by Tymphany D19TD-05 3/4" Poly Dome Tweeter), and the speakers are PSB300s, running from a DENON AVR-900 (100 W per channel). Source for the failure is usually the turntable (THORENS TD 150 MKII A/B - rebuilt by me). But it does happen with the DENON CD deck. Speaker wire is vanilla WalMart Phillips 18 G braieded copper speaker wire. One thing that I did do (before I knew not to do it) was that I cut the right speaker wire shorter than the left to prevent excessive coiling of the right spk wire; amp is on the right hand side of the room.
Question: Is the differential in the speaker wire to blame, or is it that I've got the amp cranked up too high (max) for the speakers?
The rating on the speakers is "Rated for 10-80 Watts at 6 Ohms Impedance."
Thanks.
You might be unlucky and have the volume to high and its just chance the same side has failed.
The amp could be oscillating at HF on that channel and that is frying the tweeter. A scope check would be needed for that one.
The crossover may have an issue in that speaker (fault or wrong value part) and that is passing to much LF energy to the tweeter.
Only you know how loud you actually play it... you could try this to get an idea.
A Test. How much Voltage (power) do your speakers need?
Perhaps swap your speakers around and see if the problem follows the speaker or not.
Different wire lengths are no problem.
The amp could be oscillating at HF on that channel and that is frying the tweeter. A scope check would be needed for that one.
The crossover may have an issue in that speaker (fault or wrong value part) and that is passing to much LF energy to the tweeter.
Only you know how loud you actually play it... you could try this to get an idea.
A Test. How much Voltage (power) do your speakers need?
Perhaps swap your speakers around and see if the problem follows the speaker or not.
Different wire lengths are no problem.
Not uncommon also, that one of the wires from the voice coil has a small break, disrupting the connection, when the voice coil heats up. After a few minutes when allowed to cool down, the connection is back.
This is just a cheap Peerless dome tweeter, and they are definitely not very robus when
overloaded. So if you´re in the habbit of playing loud, just replace it 🙂
This is just a cheap Peerless dome tweeter, and they are definitely not very robus when
overloaded. So if you´re in the habbit of playing loud, just replace it 🙂
You don't suppose the speaker has a polyfuse on the tweeter? Designed to cut out at high volume. Looks like a little disk ceramic capacitor...
May be out of spec. Or maybe doing its job! 😀
May be out of spec. Or maybe doing its job! 😀
