Ohm Walsh 2 - can i cut these pool strainers off?

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Hi. I have this pair of OHM walsh 2 speakers, picked up from a thrift shop, pretty neat but im dyong to cut these thick metal pool strainer style screen off the tops of them.

Can I?

won't i get a little more detial?

also i was thinking about bypassing the crossovers and running them full range with a first order cap on the tweeter.. but from the literature think there might be something special going on in the crossover thats there now?

any ideas?

PS.. im building a better set of speakers that will be ready next month. so if F*&$ these up.. i won't care too much.
 

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do the cans contribute something?

do the cans contribute something? positive? aid dispersion?
or are they just protective?

if the latter im gonna cut um off and paint the drivers to look like little volcanos.. bounce army men off of em etc..

lol...
 
Hmmm.

I've got a really fast racehorse. I know, if I cut off it's head it'll go faster 'cos of less air resistance. Oh, and while I have my chainsaw out, I can practice my open heart surgery and put a greyhound's heart in it. They go fast, don't they! 😉
 
supter -t etc

Well,
My setup had been the super-t, eastsound e-5 and saba greencones mounted in the golden ratio open baffle.
Then I found the Ohms at a garage sale, and we familiar with their uniqeness and curious about how they would work.
8 months later im wanting to chop their heads off...
na. really
sren, you can get a pair like mine on ebay for about 150 dollars i believe, the olders ones like these turn up like Acoustic Research AR2's
total bargains ( I had some AR2 ax's from another garage sale and liked a lot about them..)

All in all though the saba 8" greencones in the golden ration ob was the best sound.. for me.. might have been perfect if i had added some matching tweeters. what the lacked was in the upper high freq's.

the walshes with the t-amp: loud enough for my apartment, i don't think ive ever had the volume more than half way up..
they have a neat sense of imaging
but the bass, even the midbass dynamics are not there.
great speakers for walking around the house, but i find that i never sit down to listen anymore. if that makes sense. and im missing something more intmate with all that sound bouncing around my place in every direction..
wish i had a very large room to try and air the out in, i think theyd be better. .but still no bass.

the t-amp and the eastsound are terrific. The eastsound e5 i got is phoenominal. In any setup, its been like night and day . The t-amp to a lesser extent, but very satisifying combo..

ok.. altec horns coming sortly.,
 
Better yet, since it's obvious you're not serious about these speakers and want to literally destroy them, why not put them back on the market UNTOUCHED, get some money for them, then go buy some junk speakers and destroy them instead.

Ohm speakers are NOT to be screwed around with and/or destroyed. And if you put a serious amplifier to them, I'm sure you would hear plenty of bass. You're not going to get anything decent out of them with that little T-amp.

Do the right thing and sell those Ohm speakers before they become junk.
 
An even later comment....

For 25$, even I would remove the baskets if poss. without totally trashing the innards. *L*

As for mid to low bass with the Ohms (and omnis in general, IMHO), they usually mate well with a sub. I'd scale the size and power of the sub to the 'mains' just to keep things on the same relative level however. An 12" sub with the 2's would be overkill, and likely to begin knocking objects off shelves. *L*

2's in a smaller space with a 6~8" sub would be fairly dynamic. But placement would become the critical issue....again, MHO.

(25$ was a steal....I snagged a Garrard mint Z100 TT for 20 with a Shure M55E that wanted a new stylus....a Polk 6" self-powered sub for 20 that needed some new paint, also purrfect....a pair of SMGa Maggies for 200 that a 4 of 5... There's nice oldies out there needing a new home. *G* We've also gotten our best pets from the shelters as well, the only love money can buy. 😉 Go save a life, and get a friend.)
 
For 25$, even I would remove the baskets if poss. without totally trashing the innards. *L*

As for mid to low bass with the Ohms (and omnis in general, IMHO), they usually mate well with a sub. I'd scale the size and power of the sub to the 'mains' just to keep things on the same relative level however. An 12" sub with the 2's would be overkill, and likely to begin knocking objects off shelves. *L*

2's in a smaller space with a 6~8" sub would be fairly dynamic. But placement would become the critical issue....again, MHO.

(25$ was a steal....I snagged a Garrard mint Z100 TT for 20 with a Shure M55E that wanted a new stylus....a Polk 6" self-powered sub for 20 that needed some new paint, also purrfect....a pair of SMGa Maggies for 200 that a 4 of 5... There's nice oldies out there needing a new home. *G* We've also gotten our best pets from the shelters as well, the only love money can buy. 😉 Go save a life, and get a friend.)

Don't you go calling a 6" a sub around here!
 
I'm not replying to the original post. I know that was years ago.

But for those who wonder about the Ohm Walsh cans- you can take the cover off and access the crossover and drivers. The top "can" will come off with some gentle prying with a putty knife. It's held on with the black goop they use to seal drivers to a speaker enclosure.

Underneath, it's pretty basic with a crossover using lamps as fuses and a lot of hot glue gun work. The driver fires down and the tweeter projects into the room at 90 degree angle from the driver.

The crossover is rather unimpressive and a bit hand made looking. I think that's why they seem to want to keep it hidden, along with hiding the light produced by the lamp(fuses).

I figured all this out after I blew one of the lamps on my speakers. I saw a flash of light before the speaker quit and wondered what was going on. Rather than spend the cash to send the "can" back East to fix a lamp, I did the repair myself.
 
That's not the crossover in the can.
The crossover is at the bottom of the box. In with the drivers is mostly protection and impedance correction.


Components changed even within a model designation so this allowed the cans to be more plug&play with the crossover over several years.
 
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