If these are answered here on DIY or elsewhere, please direct me to the post or website.
FOR A ROUGHLY 2 CUBIC FOOT ENCLOSURE -- STRAIGHT SIDES, NOMINAL 1 INCH THICK.
Nothin' fancy essentially, but veneered with decent fine grain wood -- 1/8" or 3/16" cherry / maple / ash (decision not yet ready).
BTW, the biscuit method is NOT in my tool budget -- an apology herewith offered for advocates of it !
1. Edges joined by butt / half-lap / full-lap --- what is your preference for a mini-monitor (not huge) enclosure ?
2. Strengthened by glue & screwed corner blocks -- or other method ? (Side to side bracing will be done, but I am asking strictly about edges.)
3. Type / brand of glue that's resistant to shrinkage & expansion as humidity changes ?
4. Outside side-junctions softened by round-overs routed to minimize dents and splinters -- what bit radius ?
5. Woofer is Audax HM 210 CO (woven carbon fiber), which has a compound (radius + straight) routing requirement. Am I in for a headache-producing jig procedure, or is there a simpler way ?
6. For finishes, opinion as to whether "one step" --- stain & sealer combined -- is just as durable and pretty as the older separate stain/sand/coat method ?
As the cliché goes, thanks in advance . . .
FOR A ROUGHLY 2 CUBIC FOOT ENCLOSURE -- STRAIGHT SIDES, NOMINAL 1 INCH THICK.
Nothin' fancy essentially, but veneered with decent fine grain wood -- 1/8" or 3/16" cherry / maple / ash (decision not yet ready).
BTW, the biscuit method is NOT in my tool budget -- an apology herewith offered for advocates of it !
1. Edges joined by butt / half-lap / full-lap --- what is your preference for a mini-monitor (not huge) enclosure ?
2. Strengthened by glue & screwed corner blocks -- or other method ? (Side to side bracing will be done, but I am asking strictly about edges.)
3. Type / brand of glue that's resistant to shrinkage & expansion as humidity changes ?
4. Outside side-junctions softened by round-overs routed to minimize dents and splinters -- what bit radius ?
5. Woofer is Audax HM 210 CO (woven carbon fiber), which has a compound (radius + straight) routing requirement. Am I in for a headache-producing jig procedure, or is there a simpler way ?
6. For finishes, opinion as to whether "one step" --- stain & sealer combined -- is just as durable and pretty as the older separate stain/sand/coat method ?
As the cliché goes, thanks in advance . . .
Well, aside from different philosophies on material type, thickness, and bracing schemes - because I'm a lazy bugger, tend to go with max 18mm BB / "Apple" ply, and between panel bracing to break panel resonances into multiples of higher frequencies, rather than brute force mass + damping + constrained layer, etc. - I'd offer the following.
It's more likely the movement of the wood material from swings in temp / humidity would be likely to cause joints to split than any decent modern cabinetmaker's glue. I use Franklin Titebond II (modified PVA) - today's glues are pretty strong.
Rabbets / dadoes should provide plenty of structural integrity / glue surface area at joints -on smaller enclosures, corner blocks would probably be redundnat . Since you'll be post veneering the cabinets, butt joints and screws / brand nails from the outside are fine for internal bracing between panels.
For veneering, I far prefer the ease of working with thin paper backed flexible veneers that can be applied with the very low tech iron-on wood glue method, and can provide excellent coverage and grain matching/wrapping on smaller enclosures with a single 4x8ft sheet. To prevent telegraphing of surface irregularities / joints, a bit more time is required in surface prep as compared to using thicker materials or rigid plastic laminates.
I've yet to find a "one-step" stain and top coat finish that I like - being lucky enough to work in a commercial production facility, there's access to a full spray booth and HVLP equipment. But I've also had good results on small projects at home with Mohawk brand true NitroCellulose lacquer in aerosol cans. It's a personal thing - neither am I fan of polyurethane or water based top coats.
As to making patterns for rebating of irregular shaped /truncatedframes like the Audax, others can advise there - I'd just get them routed on our CNC, or when that's not available, hand cut small curved filler blocks and bondo the buggers up before veneering.
It's more likely the movement of the wood material from swings in temp / humidity would be likely to cause joints to split than any decent modern cabinetmaker's glue. I use Franklin Titebond II (modified PVA) - today's glues are pretty strong.
Rabbets / dadoes should provide plenty of structural integrity / glue surface area at joints -on smaller enclosures, corner blocks would probably be redundnat . Since you'll be post veneering the cabinets, butt joints and screws / brand nails from the outside are fine for internal bracing between panels.
For veneering, I far prefer the ease of working with thin paper backed flexible veneers that can be applied with the very low tech iron-on wood glue method, and can provide excellent coverage and grain matching/wrapping on smaller enclosures with a single 4x8ft sheet. To prevent telegraphing of surface irregularities / joints, a bit more time is required in surface prep as compared to using thicker materials or rigid plastic laminates.
I've yet to find a "one-step" stain and top coat finish that I like - being lucky enough to work in a commercial production facility, there's access to a full spray booth and HVLP equipment. But I've also had good results on small projects at home with Mohawk brand true NitroCellulose lacquer in aerosol cans. It's a personal thing - neither am I fan of polyurethane or water based top coats.
As to making patterns for rebating of irregular shaped /truncatedframes like the Audax, others can advise there - I'd just get them routed on our CNC, or when that's not available, hand cut small curved filler blocks and bondo the buggers up before veneering.
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Hello Chrisb ---
I hugely am grateful for your long detailed advice ! ! !
Please give me a few days to consider all guidelines and suggestions. I might do a PM to you or again here on DIY.
I hugely am grateful for your long detailed advice ! ! !
Please give me a few days to consider all guidelines and suggestions. I might do a PM to you or again here on DIY.
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