Nichicon 10000uf Alternative?

[CJ66]

Hi,

Can anyone advise on alternatives for Nichicon LQ(M) 10000uf 63v.
I need 4no. to repair the power supply in my M&K sub. I don’t have test gear but assume it’s the caps as they are bulging… the sub was ok at low volume but started ‘hammering’ as the volume was increased.


Many thanks 🙏

 

[rayma]

Appears that Nichicon specifies their LS series for a replacement. LLS1J103MELB

https://www.nichicon.co.jp/english/products/pdf_r/Standardization_p12e.pdf
https://www.nichicon.co.jp/english/products/pdfs/e-ls.pdf
Blocked

 

[kodabmx]

Given the size of it, and the stocking issues, it looks like your best choice is Illinois 109LBB063M2DG

at Digikey at least...

 

[rayma]

Illinois Capacitor is now part of CDE.

 

[kodabmx]

Ya I thought I read that somewhere... I usually use their MKP axial caps when I build point to point. No complaints.

Here's a Rubycon alternative. Rubycon | Rubycon 63USC10000MEFCSN30X50 | Horn-Type Electrolytic Capacitors - LCSC.COM

Another Rubycon for triple the money but it's 105°C and Mouser 63MXG10000MEFCSN30X45 Rubycon | Mouser Canada

 

[CJ66]

Thank you for the comments - Apologies, I should have mentioned that I had googled the Nichicon units but cannot find stock available to UK (for reasonable cost anyway)
Both the IC and Rubycon (105deg) units are available so I will probably go for one of those.

Just for reference, I've attached an image of the original caps + an image of the underside of the board... is that 'mess' from rosin solder flux or signs of another issue?

 

[johnmath]

The caps don't look they are bulging to me. The tops have black plastic insulating discs which are slightly convex, probably due to the heat-shrink capacitor packaging squishing them - it is extremely common for that. Do the tops press down with a little finger pressure?

The amber stuff on the underside of the circuit board is the flux that was in the rosin cored solder used when the boards were manufactured. It is not evidence of deterioration, nor will it do any harm.

Have you searched to see if there is a common fault with this model? That may give you a clue for a diagnostic-free repair. Otherwise you may find that repair by random substitution of components is a long and potentially expensive road and you may never reach the destination.

 

[CJ66]

Hi,


Tops are rock solid with no deflection at all - I took a guess at it being the caps as the sub was ok at moderate volume but lost control and hammered/knocked as the volume was increased.
I might whip them off and see what my multimeter shows (thats all I have available for testing)

 

[kodabmx]

You can use 35mm wide caps in that board - that will give you more choices like this excellent cap from KEMET: ALC10S1103DH

It's 60mm high though - make sure there's enough room 🙂

 

[Andersonix]

You could try adding some caps in parallel to the old caps to see if the problem goes away.

 

[wiseoldtech]

Hi,


Tops are rock solid with no deflection at all - I took a guess at it being the caps as the sub was ok at moderate volume but lost control and hammered/knocked as the volume was increased.
I might whip them off and see what my multimeter shows (thats all I have available for testing)

I highly doubt that those PS caps are the problem.
Much of this "capacitor replacement paranoia" stems from reading too much internet blabber from other obsessed individuals.


Troubleshoot and locate the exact problem of this "hammering" effect.
It could likely be feedback from the source being interfered with by overpowering bass.