Hello Friends, Recently i bought a new pair of tekton mlore speakers and paired it with a Glow amp one tube amp. The end result was a satisfactory combination. I loved the warmth of the tube amp with very less listening fatigue. But i felt that the sound stage was not at all immersive and not at all wider.
This prompted me to go with a DIY speakers which i want to play it with my tube amp. I have gone thru few of the articles and found that "Statement speakers" by Curt has very good fan following. But however, they are not suited for tube amps. So i would like to know if there are any contemporaries diy speakers designs which works well with set tubes ? I have a medium size room and my budget is around 500-600$. I prefer having a deep tight bass and more engaging emotion 🙂
I am a novice in speaker building, but i have some friends who can help me on building them. So all i need is a good design.
Edit:- I am okay with plans for the drivers too.. i have a friend who agreed to help me in building cabinets. and i don't mind to spend a couple of 100s more..but not exorbitant prices. May be stretch to a 1000-1200 $.But then i have to wait couple of more months until i save em. I should have be more clear earlier...my mistake 🙁
Thanks in advance. 🙂
This prompted me to go with a DIY speakers which i want to play it with my tube amp. I have gone thru few of the articles and found that "Statement speakers" by Curt has very good fan following. But however, they are not suited for tube amps. So i would like to know if there are any contemporaries diy speakers designs which works well with set tubes ? I have a medium size room and my budget is around 500-600$. I prefer having a deep tight bass and more engaging emotion 🙂
I am a novice in speaker building, but i have some friends who can help me on building them. So all i need is a good design.
Edit:- I am okay with plans for the drivers too.. i have a friend who agreed to help me in building cabinets. and i don't mind to spend a couple of 100s more..but not exorbitant prices. May be stretch to a 1000-1200 $.But then i have to wait couple of more months until i save em. I should have be more clear earlier...my mistake 🙁
Thanks in advance. 🙂
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Alpair 10P or 10.3 metal cone in MLTL such as Pensil, Brines' M10A10 or the FrugelHorn FHXL would be worth a look
Use only a decent grade of "baltic birch" or "apple" ply multicore plywood - that could chew up well over $150 depending on the chosen design, but I think it's money well spent
Use only a decent grade of "baltic birch" or "apple" ply multicore plywood - that could chew up well over $150 depending on the chosen design, but I think it's money well spent
Thanks,
but my amp has only 5W×2 at 1KHz. Will it be sufficient to play them loud? the drivers seems to be around 90db only. My current speakers are around 95db and sometimes i feel i need more volume.
Looks like you already got very sensitive speakers (for tube amps). Space for improvement will be very difficult if not impossible with a money limit.
Now, here (diyAudio) what you need is to look at the other projects (because you don't have the ability to start a new design).
PI KITS Pi Speakers - Product Line and Driver Complements
note: kits starting price is $90.00 /each,
The 3Pi bass reflex kit is a 12" and for 320.usd is about what you need (you mention 600.usd)
TROELS (EU) DIY Loudspeakers
Now, here (diyAudio) what you need is to look at the other projects (because you don't have the ability to start a new design).
PI KITS Pi Speakers - Product Line and Driver Complements
note: kits starting price is $90.00 /each,
The 3Pi bass reflex kit is a 12" and for 320.usd is about what you need (you mention 600.usd)
TROELS (EU) DIY Loudspeakers
Some of the triode "flea-powered" amps are around 2W, so extreme efficiency is required...
DIYhifisupply boast a speaker kit with 98dB (average? unknown):
Crescendo Ribbon Horn Speaker
Decware, maker of 2W "flea-powered" amplifiers, offer high-efficiency speaker kit designs:
DECWARE / D.I.Y. Audio Projects
and if you get into an MTM design, the dual woofers =can= increase efficiency in that range so that a 90dB woofer, in pairs, may be matched with a higher efficiency tweeter.
If you want to go exotic, Supravox offer high-efficiency drivers and DIY speaker plans:
Supravox Kits - DIY
Edit: sorry, followed this thread from the front page, didn't note that it is in "full range". The Decware and Supravox kits offer full-range designs...best luck!
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Hi,
Welcome to DIy audio !
Nice speakers you have !
Uhm...What's the question ?
Uh, the same long misundersood passage that make distinction between being
fullrange driver or fullrange speaker formed by multiple drivers- and specialized.
The following answer may sound basic, and is;
....
in their given passband...or assigned by the user ( ? )
( ? ) as he/she knows where's the placement in ambient.
Hmmm...tube amps !
Welcome to DIy audio !
Nice speakers you have !
Uhm...What's the question ?
Uh, the same long misundersood passage that make distinction between being
fullrange driver or fullrange speaker formed by multiple drivers- and specialized.
The following answer may sound basic, and is;
....
in their given passband...or assigned by the user ( ? )
( ? ) as he/she knows where's the placement in ambient.
Hmmm...tube amps !
I am open to any kind of design, full range, two way etc... the reason i posted here because i couldn't find any other common place to post.
AFA available kits, off the top of my head:
- Pi speakers sells various levels of kits for large format pro driver type speakers.
- Madisound sells the BK20 flat pack horn kit, for use with the FE206EN or FE208E sigma.
If you don't mind building cabinets, many manufacturers provide plans for their drivers.
To get to 95db+ with a full range, realistically you'll need to go to an 8" driver and back horn or similar large complex cabinet, or else use a helper woofer.
There are countless other options. If I could have anything, I'd go for GPA 515 in low tuned corner reflex boxes, topped by FE168EZ full ranges (or maybe Lowther A55) in tractrix front horns, with T500 horn supertweeters. Unfortunately, my dream system exceeds your budget. 😉
- Pi speakers sells various levels of kits for large format pro driver type speakers.
- Madisound sells the BK20 flat pack horn kit, for use with the FE206EN or FE208E sigma.
If you don't mind building cabinets, many manufacturers provide plans for their drivers.
To get to 95db+ with a full range, realistically you'll need to go to an 8" driver and back horn or similar large complex cabinet, or else use a helper woofer.
There are countless other options. If I could have anything, I'd go for GPA 515 in low tuned corner reflex boxes, topped by FE168EZ full ranges (or maybe Lowther A55) in tractrix front horns, with T500 horn supertweeters. Unfortunately, my dream system exceeds your budget. 😉
95+ dB is rather loud for continuous listening,
As GregB pointed out, you might want to look at something like a Fostex FE206E in BLH (BK20) or BIB. Note that many DIY plans for systems of this category of sensitivity could easily be twice the cubic volume of the BK20 - Scot Lindgren's (Woden) Vulcan or Kirishima for example - both of these manifold designs are 72" tall by approx 19" deep
As GregB pointed out, you might want to look at something like a Fostex FE206E in BLH (BK20) or BIB. Note that many DIY plans for systems of this category of sensitivity could easily be twice the cubic volume of the BK20 - Scot Lindgren's (Woden) Vulcan or Kirishima for example - both of these manifold designs are 72" tall by approx 19" deep
Likely Quality speakers would be a seriously worthwhile upgrade.. always are 🙂
IF my problem I'd be concentrating on getting an erm 'better' amp First.
If only as experiment.
Suggest a quality Lm3886 Chip type (get a good one .. ask around, as some iterations are lesser) as an affordable entry level entry into capable amplifications
Which imo your current tube one is Not.
IF my problem I'd be concentrating on getting an erm 'better' amp First.
If only as experiment.
Suggest a quality Lm3886 Chip type (get a good one .. ask around, as some iterations are lesser) as an affordable entry level entry into capable amplifications
Which imo your current tube one is Not.
Bare - for many folks a "quality" 300B amp would be considered a substantial sonic (if not power) upgrade, particularly with suitably sensitive drivers.
As for affordable SS amps currently being enjoyed by members of the fullrange crowd, in addition to the venerable LM3886 et al analog chip amps, there is a whole new generation of digital products, available as either kits or fully assembled. I personally own a couple of Toppings (2024C) , and one of the new TDA3116 - which I think I prefer to the former - and not just for the dynamics from the extra power .
As for affordable SS amps currently being enjoyed by members of the fullrange crowd, in addition to the venerable LM3886 et al analog chip amps, there is a whole new generation of digital products, available as either kits or fully assembled. I personally own a couple of Toppings (2024C) , and one of the new TDA3116 - which I think I prefer to the former - and not just for the dynamics from the extra power .
Thanks for your suggestions, i have been looking into these links and articles you guys suggested and i have come across this project Lampizator p17. This is an open baffle design. Mostly with SET designs i have seen horns and few OB designs. I have read somewhere that we lose the image placement and spatial accuracy that the Horns have compared to OB. Is that true with respect to P17 design?
oh, man ! We're talking about ABC in audio technique.
Yes, a system of more than a loudspeaker gives an increase in efficiency, which
is a little different than the summing of each driver's sensitivity, when driven by an amplifier. So you'll always end in having big woofers,midrange and tweeters if max output for given power is what you want.
It just comes to nonsense when you see that big 400 W woofers are driven by 10 W. Indeed, you'd need a big radiator with a little magnet ( which would be still useful...for OB).
But efficiency is obtained by summing each output and that where the game is:
each speaker has a peculiar ( polar ! ) emission and that depends, after the electrical thing, on its position in space and the relation with the other drivers.
So you'll get an extended sound source which is not phisically associated with each speaker but it's the (vectorial) summing of each and moreover there are the first reflections in the very vicinity of the speaker ( from the " baffle" ) and so on. So efficiency is raised but what an expense !!
With horns you get a different device that is very sensitive and efficient, go figure why SET guys like horns. But horns give a different "rappresentation" of the musical event than direct radiation systems.
Yes, a system of more than a loudspeaker gives an increase in efficiency, which
is a little different than the summing of each driver's sensitivity, when driven by an amplifier. So you'll always end in having big woofers,midrange and tweeters if max output for given power is what you want.
It just comes to nonsense when you see that big 400 W woofers are driven by 10 W. Indeed, you'd need a big radiator with a little magnet ( which would be still useful...for OB).
But efficiency is obtained by summing each output and that where the game is:
each speaker has a peculiar ( polar ! ) emission and that depends, after the electrical thing, on its position in space and the relation with the other drivers.
So you'll get an extended sound source which is not phisically associated with each speaker but it's the (vectorial) summing of each and moreover there are the first reflections in the very vicinity of the speaker ( from the " baffle" ) and so on. So efficiency is raised but what an expense !!
With horns you get a different device that is very sensitive and efficient, go figure why SET guys like horns. But horns give a different "rappresentation" of the musical event than direct radiation systems.
Hi. I also looking for high efficiency full range speaker for my 2a3 amplifier (it will be finished in next month). I'm very interested Frugel Horn XL but with more efficiency driver than Alpair 10p. Do you know which one, can I use in this cabinet? Or maybe Alpair 10p is enough?
Without revisiting the "how much power / loudness is enough" debate all over again - that one will never be "settled" - I can say that I've heard the 10P and 10.3 in FHXL and other designs, and in a moderate sized room (say under 300sq ft) a 2A3 would certainly be enough for my own average musical listening habits, if crossed over to separately powered bass support. Personally, I like stereo woofers XO between 120 to as high as 300Hz.
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