Well,
just finished my complement amp to a small subwoofer I have. Used the same case as in the stereo-version for a more consistent look.
Is it a gainclone? I don't know since I'm not sure what a gainclone is, but it is based on the LM3886 chip.
Anyways, couldn't find somewhere else to post it since it's not a passlabs design, so you will juste have to comment on it!
/Chris
just finished my complement amp to a small subwoofer I have. Used the same case as in the stereo-version for a more consistent look.
Is it a gainclone? I don't know since I'm not sure what a gainclone is, but it is based on the LM3886 chip.
Anyways, couldn't find somewhere else to post it since it's not a passlabs design, so you will juste have to comment on it!
/Chris
Attachments
Look nice.Christian said:Well, just finished my complement amp to a small subwoofer I have. Used the same case as in the stereo-version for a more consistent look.
Is it a gainclone? I don't know since I'm not sure what a gainclone is, but it is based on the LM3886 chip.
/Chris
You have used p2p wiring. Wireing litterally.
That is what I should tidy up a bit.
Making the wires as short as possible and use some clips
at the appropriate places.
How about the box? Did you buy it?
The box looks just right for amplifiers. Very nice looking!
You use the chassis as cooler, I imagine.
/halo
Jupp, bought the case at ELFA, about 30$ so definetly worth it!
I guess the enclosure will be sufficient for cooling cause' I used a 80W toroid, +-20V.
I drive the led directly of the -20V supply, no regulator. Also, didn't use any small 0,1microF caps over those big rifas. Works pretty well without those + the last time I used it I got A LOT of hum. don't know why, they could have been old?
/Chris
I guess the enclosure will be sufficient for cooling cause' I used a 80W toroid, +-20V.
I drive the led directly of the -20V supply, no regulator. Also, didn't use any small 0,1microF caps over those big rifas. Works pretty well without those + the last time I used it I got A LOT of hum. don't know why, they could have been old?
/Chris
Chrstian New Amp
I have seen serious research on the web, that shows it is just a waste.
In order for film caps to make any effect for the load,
they have to have an inductance or an resistance to work with.
If you put Electrolytes in bigginning of a wire
end the film cap at end of wire, near the circuit
it has some effect. Because the wire acts as an small L+R.
Making an LC and RC filter.
------------------------------------------------
I found your enclosure in ELFA, article # 50-100-20
319 SKr+Vat, makes 400 Skr (40-45$)
Size 330x185x75 mm (13" x 7.5" x 3")
Sure looks very nice - looks a lot better 😉 than 400 Svedish Krowns!
/halo - prefer the look of amp - to the look of bucks
I never use any films parallelled electrolytes.Christian said:Jupp, bought the case at ELFA, about 30$ so definetly worth it!
I guess the enclosure will be sufficient for cooling cause' I used a 80W toroid, +-20V.
I drive the led directly of the -20V supply, no regulator. Also, didn't use any small 0,1microF caps over those big rifas. Works pretty well without those + the last time I used it I got A LOT of hum. don't know why, they could have been old?
/Chris
I have seen serious research on the web, that shows it is just a waste.
In order for film caps to make any effect for the load,
they have to have an inductance or an resistance to work with.
If you put Electrolytes in bigginning of a wire
end the film cap at end of wire, near the circuit
it has some effect. Because the wire acts as an small L+R.
Making an LC and RC filter.
------------------------------------------------
I found your enclosure in ELFA, article # 50-100-20
319 SKr+Vat, makes 400 Skr (40-45$)
Size 330x185x75 mm (13" x 7.5" x 3")
Sure looks very nice - looks a lot better 😉 than 400 Svedish Krowns!
/halo - prefer the look of amp - to the look of bucks
- Status
- Not open for further replies.