Hi all,
i'm new to all and Audio also.
I have a sort of speakers as,
2x 5watts, 4ohm
2x 10watts, 4ohm speakers
1x 30watts, 4ohm subwoofer.
I wanted to make a 2.1 channel sound system and need your help.
kindly suggest me Designs, PCBs , etc
regards
i'm new to all and Audio also.
I have a sort of speakers as,
2x 5watts, 4ohm
2x 10watts, 4ohm speakers
1x 30watts, 4ohm subwoofer.
I wanted to make a 2.1 channel sound system and need your help.
kindly suggest me Designs, PCBs , etc
regards
Hi gohar and welcome,
I would suggest a chip amp or "gainclone" based on devices such as the LM3886.
Have a browse through the chipamp forum,
Chip Amps - diyAudio
Kits for these type of amplifier should be easily available and ensure a reasonable chance of success.
I would suggest a chip amp or "gainclone" based on devices such as the LM3886.
Have a browse through the chipamp forum,
Chip Amps - diyAudio
Kits for these type of amplifier should be easily available and ensure a reasonable chance of success.
Thanks for your precious reply.
Can you direct me some DIY amps that i can make,
And a question is that is only one amp is required for speakers and subwoofer? or two separate amps are needed?
Can anyone explain me in some detail?
regards
Can you direct me some DIY amps that i can make,
And a question is that is only one amp is required for speakers and subwoofer? or two separate amps are needed?
Can anyone explain me in some detail?
regards
Usually a subwoofer has its own amp that includes a filter to ensure only the low frequencies are amplified and fed to the speaker. So that's one amp for the sub and two more for left and right. Three in total.
Have you looked at the chipamps forum yet ?
If you ask there about what kits are currently recommended (that folk have built successfully) then I'm sure you'll get some good advice.
Depending on your skills you could buy just the PCB's and obtain all the parts yourself... in some ways the best option because you can ensure you only buy quality parts.
Just search for "LM3886 PCB" on ebay as an example.
Have you looked at the chipamps forum yet ?
If you ask there about what kits are currently recommended (that folk have built successfully) then I'm sure you'll get some good advice.
Depending on your skills you could buy just the PCB's and obtain all the parts yourself... in some ways the best option because you can ensure you only buy quality parts.
Just search for "LM3886 PCB" on ebay as an example.
It depends how loud you turn it up 🙂
It also depends on how the speakers and amplifiers are rated. A "true" rating would be the speaker manufactuer saying it could handle 30 watts RMS but often ratings can be a nominal figure sometimes based on music power or peak music power. If so they become meaningless.
30 watts at 4 ohms requires 11 volts RMS.
A 68 watt amplifier (assuming RMS values and nominal 8 ohm load) can put out over 23 volts RMS so the danger is obvious. Reduce the load to 4 ohms and if the amplifier can cope then the power dissipated in the speaker goes up to over 130 watts.
In practice... more damage is done by using low power amplifiers and driving them into clipping. That often results in burned out tweeters.
That said I would be quite happy with a 68 watt amp and 30 watt speakers when used carefully.
I wanna drive 15watts 4 ohm per channel, then what power rating amplifier should i use?
i wanted to make a sound system comprising of 15 watts left and 15 watts right channel with 30watts subwoofer. is LM3886 amp would be good for it? I wanted to build amp myself,
And tell something about TDA2030. Is it good for my 15watts 4ohm load per channel?
i wanted to make a sound system comprising of 15 watts left and 15 watts right channel with 30watts subwoofer. is LM3886 amp would be good for it? I wanted to build amp myself,
And tell something about TDA2030. Is it good for my 15watts 4ohm load per channel?
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The TDA2030 is a very old chip and not very good in use. I certainly wouldn't recommend that one.
The LM3886 is perfect for what you want. Use with a 20-0-20 vac transformer and PSU.
Don't worry so much about speaker power and amplifier power. It's not a problem. Just make sure the amplifier is capable of fully driving your speaker without clipping (the LM3886 will be perfect)
The LM3886 is perfect for what you want. Use with a 20-0-20 vac transformer and PSU.
Don't worry so much about speaker power and amplifier power. It's not a problem. Just make sure the amplifier is capable of fully driving your speaker without clipping (the LM3886 will be perfect)
OK then LM3886 is done. I wanted to do every step of building amp myself. for this purpose please recommend me some details, circuits etc.
Ok then LM3886 is good. Now Give me some info, designs, circuits etc. I've planned to do every step myself.
If you are going to do everything yourself then the LM3886 data sheet gives all the recommended circuit configurations. You would have to design the PCB yourself.
I really haven't the time to do it all for you 🙂
I think you would be far better getting a kit for the LM3886 that includes a PCB. Look through the chip amp forum here and perhaps start a new thread asking for LM3886 kit recommendations,
Chip Amps - diyAudio
I really haven't the time to do it all for you 🙂
I think you would be far better getting a kit for the LM3886 that includes a PCB. Look through the chip amp forum here and perhaps start a new thread asking for LM3886 kit recommendations,
Chip Amps - diyAudio
I would pick up the Peter Daniels Audiosector LM4780 Kit.
The LM4780 is two LM3886's on a single chip.
They come as two amps per kit for from 2 to 4 channels depending on the application.
I would build one of them as a stereo pair and parallel the second one for the sub.
That is what I did and it works VERY well.
This would give you the extra power that the sub would need if you ever choose to upgrade.
I would suggest the Antek AS-3220 Power Transfomer, it will keep your power lower and your heatsinks cooler.
The LM4780 is two LM3886's on a single chip.
They come as two amps per kit for from 2 to 4 channels depending on the application.
I would build one of them as a stereo pair and parallel the second one for the sub.
That is what I did and it works VERY well.
This would give you the extra power that the sub would need if you ever choose to upgrade.
I would suggest the Antek AS-3220 Power Transfomer, it will keep your power lower and your heatsinks cooler.
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If you are dead set on doing all the work completely I would check out the LM3875.
Look for posts & threads by Danielwritesbac.
He has point to point wiring instructions for the LM3875.
The LM3875 has a 15W RMS output power rating.
Parallel 2 together to run the sub.
Danielwritesbac has point to point wiring instructions for both.
I think he only used 5 components per chip so the build will be cheap and easy.
Look for posts & threads by Danielwritesbac.
He has point to point wiring instructions for the LM3875.
The LM3875 has a 15W RMS output power rating.
Parallel 2 together to run the sub.
Danielwritesbac has point to point wiring instructions for both.
I think he only used 5 components per chip so the build will be cheap and easy.
Look at these two pictures and look at the voltage scale. The first picture shows the amplifier running at absolute max output before clipping. Look at the sinewave and read of the voltage against time and imagine the power dissipated in the load (which could be a tweeter). The voltage doesn't spend very long at the maximum values.
Now look at the amplifier when clipping. The max voltage is essentially the same but the load "sees" that voltage last much much longer. It's almost like applying DC. Tweeters seem to suffer the most from this effect because the voice coils have very limited power handling ability.
Attachments
Yes since the Xmax of many tweeters is only .1mm-.3mm.
This long "Excursion" heats the tweeter and can stress the voice coil too much.
If you are really concerned about over driving a 40W speaker just put a resistor before the volume pot to limit the amount of volume you have.
You will be able to turn the volume up "all the way" and there will still be 2.5k-5k of resistance in the volume circuit.
This will ensure that you are never going to drive more power than you need.
On the other hand if you ever need the extra power just pull the resistor out.
This long "Excursion" heats the tweeter and can stress the voice coil too much.
If you are really concerned about over driving a 40W speaker just put a resistor before the volume pot to limit the amount of volume you have.
You will be able to turn the volume up "all the way" and there will still be 2.5k-5k of resistance in the volume circuit.
This will ensure that you are never going to drive more power than you need.
On the other hand if you ever need the extra power just pull the resistor out.
Yes BUT there is a sustained hold at both ends of the wave that is more likely to damage the tweeter than woofer.
Nothing will play a square wave.
There is no musical quality in keeping any driver (tweeter or bass) at full excursion.
Once the driver is at full excursion its job is already completed.
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