So I built a pair of Crites CornScala speakers (Klipsch Cornwall knockoff), and they sound great but I use them in my basement when I work out, and I'm 90% of the time standing up.
I've noticed the woofers sound anemic when I'm standing up, but are fine if I sit on the ground. I figure I would need to raise the speakers at least two feet off the ground. Chains above arent an option.
My question, what is the best way to go about this? I was thinking using plywood and cutting 4 big square holes into each side? I'm afraid If I make a closed box, it would resonate. Am I overthinking this?
Any tips welcome, thanks!
I've noticed the woofers sound anemic when I'm standing up, but are fine if I sit on the ground. I figure I would need to raise the speakers at least two feet off the ground. Chains above arent an option.
My question, what is the best way to go about this? I was thinking using plywood and cutting 4 big square holes into each side? I'm afraid If I make a closed box, it would resonate. Am I overthinking this?
Any tips welcome, thanks!
What you are hearing in the bottom end is boundary effect where bass is reinforced when close to the ground but when greater than 1.2m from a boundary there is no bass reinforcement. That applies to the speaker and listener so when sitting on the ground you are getting some bass reinforcement. Before you build a stand, try sitting them on a chair or table to elevate them as they could even sound thinner up higher.
Just looking at specs, the Crites 15" in the right box should, i.e. ~Vb = Vas, Fb = Fs or at least Vb = Vas/1.44 if setting on a sufficiently rigid/massive floor and or near/at a sufficiently rigid/massive wall or corner, which may need either EQ and/or a lower tuning to maintain a well damped (sub) bass response.
FWIW/YMMV, etc., re horn speaker positioning I posted on FB recently:
Greg Monfort
Top contributor
Where traditional horns are concerned (pioneer's rising on axis), best to have the horns at seated ear height or tilted up/down as required to be line-of-sight and toe'd in to cross at some point in front of the prime listening position. If a wide seating area (large sofa/whatever), then usually pointing the left speaker to the right most seat and vice versa is at least a good starting point if not spot on to start. All these angles do a good job of averaging out room modes, floor/ceiling 'bounces', no first reflections till behind one's ears and for 'icing on the cake', make the area behind as diffuse/damped as practical with a ~floor/ceiling bookcase with a lot of randomness in density, cavity sizes, knick-knack shapes as I've done....... and never have any reflective surfaces between you and the speakers or at least cover them with a heavy furniture movers blanket or similar density.
Greg Monfort
Top contributor
Note that some speakers are designed with this up/down tilt to a greater or lesser extent such as Altec's various consumer models, so setting tilt will have to be done with an HF signal to find highest SPL. Anywhere in the 2-8 kHz BW depending on one's hearing with females having been my choice since if 'Mama/GF/whoever's not happy, then nobody's happy'.
Greg Monfort
Top contributor
Where traditional horns are concerned (pioneer's rising on axis), best to have the horns at seated ear height or tilted up/down as required to be line-of-sight and toe'd in to cross at some point in front of the prime listening position. If a wide seating area (large sofa/whatever), then usually pointing the left speaker to the right most seat and vice versa is at least a good starting point if not spot on to start. All these angles do a good job of averaging out room modes, floor/ceiling 'bounces', no first reflections till behind one's ears and for 'icing on the cake', make the area behind as diffuse/damped as practical with a ~floor/ceiling bookcase with a lot of randomness in density, cavity sizes, knick-knack shapes as I've done....... and never have any reflective surfaces between you and the speakers or at least cover them with a heavy furniture movers blanket or similar density.
Greg Monfort
Top contributor
Note that some speakers are designed with this up/down tilt to a greater or lesser extent such as Altec's various consumer models, so setting tilt will have to be done with an HF signal to find highest SPL. Anywhere in the 2-8 kHz BW depending on one's hearing with females having been my choice since if 'Mama/GF/whoever's not happy, then nobody's happy'.
squawker horn! Cool!
And...Litz wire?!
I was reading Crites pages...
But what's DSP & dirac got to do with It?
Not that a 15" has its known disadvantages such as dispersion over pistonic regime (5-600 Hz) and a horn...well a horn...
(And chains to hold a speaker? Why would that be an option?)
And...Litz wire?!
I was reading Crites pages...
But what's DSP & dirac got to do with It?
Not that a 15" has its known disadvantages such as dispersion over pistonic regime (5-600 Hz) and a horn...well a horn...
(And chains to hold a speaker? Why would that be an option?)
@picowallspeaker dsp is to help me get more bass from the speakers (instead of relying on the subs exclusively). The chains were an option to raise them off the floor since I'm standing up most of the time. The woofer isn't behind a horn (the speaker has the la Scala squawker but the cornwall woofer)
Crites sold me a riser but it's just 3 inches
Crites sold me a riser but it's just 3 inches
It's an unfinished basement with gym equipment everywhere, there's drywall on the walls but not the ceiling. Room is 30 feet long by about 12 feet wide. Speakers are about 8 feet apartFWIW/YMMV, etc., re horn speaker positioning I posted on FB recently:
Greg Monfort
Top contributor
Where traditional horns are concerned (pioneer's rising on axis), best to have the horns at seated ear height or tilted up/down as required to be line-of-sight and toe'd in to cross at some point in front of the prime listening position. If a wide seating area (large sofa/whatever), then usually pointing the left speaker to the right most seat and vice versa is at least a good starting point if not spot on to start. All these angles do a good job of averaging out room modes, floor/ceiling 'bounces', no first reflections till behind one's ears and for 'icing on the cake', make the area behind as diffuse/damped as practical with a ~floor/ceiling bookcase with a lot of randomness in density, cavity sizes, knick-knack shapes as I've done....... and never have any reflective surfaces between you and the speakers or at least cover them with a heavy furniture movers blanket or similar density.
Greg Monfort
Top contributor
Note that some speakers are designed with this up/down tilt to a greater or lesser extent such as Altec's various consumer models, so setting tilt will have to be done with an HF signal to find highest SPL. Anywhere in the 2-8 kHz BW depending on one's hearing with females having been my choice since if 'Mama/GF/whoever's not happy, then nobody's happy'.
I don't have the specs of the speaker box, it was a kit (crites model b) with plans already designed. It's a bit bigger than a traditional klipsch cornwall (the squawker is bigger, the woofer crosses over at 500 instead of 700hz)
I use rubber strings, but long, long enough to let the speaker bounce.
I use to separate the other drivers in this fashion!