Hi Everyone,
I have a problem with my Denon AVR-5803 and am hoping that an expert here can help me troubleshoot it. This receiver turns on for a few seconds, then turns off and the power light blinks quickly (twice a second). I have done quite a bit of searching and found this thread:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/solid-state/139877-help-needed-denon-avr-5805-a.html
I checked voltages on the regulator and stand-by boards, and all of the power rails seem to be there (as measured from the ribbon connectors and the regulators).
One think I noticed though is that while the voltages are all there, most of the input voltages going into the regulators are .2 - 2 volts lower than is specified in the service manual. The odd thing is that these supply voltages come from different transformers, so there doesn't seem to be a common problem. Also there are a few rails that are reading a few tenths of a volt low. What is the tolerance of the voltage that would lead you to consider a regulator problem? Just to make sure, I tried replacing some of these regulators with the exact part numbers, but it did fix the issue.
I enjoy repairing nice audio equipment as a hobby, and have mainly worked on bigger amps and a few receivers. However, this Denon is by far the most complex unit I have ever seen. I have the service manual which can be downloaded here:
DENON AVC-A1SR AVR-5803 Service Manual free download, schematics, eeprom, repair info for electronics
I would appreciate any help or suggestions to troubleshoot this monster.
I have a problem with my Denon AVR-5803 and am hoping that an expert here can help me troubleshoot it. This receiver turns on for a few seconds, then turns off and the power light blinks quickly (twice a second). I have done quite a bit of searching and found this thread:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/solid-state/139877-help-needed-denon-avr-5805-a.html
I checked voltages on the regulator and stand-by boards, and all of the power rails seem to be there (as measured from the ribbon connectors and the regulators).
One think I noticed though is that while the voltages are all there, most of the input voltages going into the regulators are .2 - 2 volts lower than is specified in the service manual. The odd thing is that these supply voltages come from different transformers, so there doesn't seem to be a common problem. Also there are a few rails that are reading a few tenths of a volt low. What is the tolerance of the voltage that would lead you to consider a regulator problem? Just to make sure, I tried replacing some of these regulators with the exact part numbers, but it did fix the issue.
I enjoy repairing nice audio equipment as a hobby, and have mainly worked on bigger amps and a few receivers. However, this Denon is by far the most complex unit I have ever seen. I have the service manual which can be downloaded here:
DENON AVC-A1SR AVR-5803 Service Manual free download, schematics, eeprom, repair info for electronics
I would appreciate any help or suggestions to troubleshoot this monster.
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AV-5803 protect flashing
Hi sjdemark; It is a few years since you posted your AVR-5803 problem. Guess by now you have long since repaired, but just in case, here is what I just found on the same model.
Left & Right sides are the Power Amp boards. Soldering is on the back side. Be care full when removing. The B+ & B- connections may still have voltage (64V). Tape them up when you remove the wires.
You need to Re-Solder the "driver" transistors TO126 type. There is a good chance that they have overheated & deteriorated the solder, especially at the centre lead. This is only ONE reason for 'protect' to activate. It is a very cautious receiver.
Worked for me... good luck
Hi sjdemark; It is a few years since you posted your AVR-5803 problem. Guess by now you have long since repaired, but just in case, here is what I just found on the same model.
Left & Right sides are the Power Amp boards. Soldering is on the back side. Be care full when removing. The B+ & B- connections may still have voltage (64V). Tape them up when you remove the wires.
You need to Re-Solder the "driver" transistors TO126 type. There is a good chance that they have overheated & deteriorated the solder, especially at the centre lead. This is only ONE reason for 'protect' to activate. It is a very cautious receiver.
Worked for me... good luck
I know this thread is old, but I have a similar problem with a 5803. I'm not an electronics technician but quite handy and have soldered many a board. Recently my 5803 began going into protect mode (I guess from reading here)... Power it own, hear the 3-5 relay clicks and right as the last one closes, there's an additional click (open I guess), display goes out and the power light just flashes.
Nothing had changed, no new connections or anything. Today I removed and replaced it with a Denon x4000 because it has HDMI and seemed like a reasonable replacement... wow it is nothing like my 5803 was! I'd put it in the anemic category at best. Anyway, after I opened up the 5803 to find the relay it stopped going into protect. Now I think it's a cold solder joint but I don't have the schematics and not a clue what area to start looking. This thing is full of relays 🙁
I've had problems in the past finding techs/company's that would go the extra mile in the repair of higher end electronics. (using standard grade components or 'generic' resulting in sub-par performance.) I'm hoping with the wealth of knowledge someone can point me in the right direction. At the least I want to use the amp in lieu of the x4000's.
Nothing had changed, no new connections or anything. Today I removed and replaced it with a Denon x4000 because it has HDMI and seemed like a reasonable replacement... wow it is nothing like my 5803 was! I'd put it in the anemic category at best. Anyway, after I opened up the 5803 to find the relay it stopped going into protect. Now I think it's a cold solder joint but I don't have the schematics and not a clue what area to start looking. This thing is full of relays 🙁
I've had problems in the past finding techs/company's that would go the extra mile in the repair of higher end electronics. (using standard grade components or 'generic' resulting in sub-par performance.) I'm hoping with the wealth of knowledge someone can point me in the right direction. At the least I want to use the amp in lieu of the x4000's.
If in doubt resolder all the joints in the solder area. You may also jiggle the components and see if you can see any movement of the component on the solder side.
Thanks, that's a great idea, but I have no idea where to start looking for the bad joint.
Look around the driver transistors for starters.
I blew an amp up once because I wasn't aware that the driver transistors were coming loose from the board. I touched one lead on a driver transistor with the VOM lead and one of the power transistors partially vaporized in a bolt of lightning. Then I realized that the driver transistor was loose; I was able to yank it off the board without desoldering it. Closer inspection revealed quite a few failed solder joints.
Maybe if I had reflowed the joints before testing it, it would have worked fine. I'll never know. 😡
Man, sorry to hear that... I guess I'd be considered dangerous. I understand cold solder joints and how to properly fix'm, but I don't know the 'electronics' so pardon my ignorance if a question seems stupid.
When you speak of a 'driver transistor', would that be the 3 legged chip things affixed to the heatsink. (I thought they were MOSFETs)? I've had to resolder some of those on car amps... And replace a few.
When you speak of a 'driver transistor', would that be the 3 legged chip things affixed to the heatsink. (I thought they were MOSFETs)? I've had to resolder some of those on car amps... And replace a few.
They should be smaller power transistors. Sometimes they are affixed to the heat sink along with the bigger power transistors, and sometimes they're not; but they should be distinct looking from the small signal transistors.
Look at all the solder joints close to the output transistors. Wiggle the parts while looking at the solder joint; especially larger parts. That way you can rule that out. If you're lucky, a little reflowing might restore function.
Look at all the solder joints close to the output transistors. Wiggle the parts while looking at the solder joint; especially larger parts. That way you can rule that out. If you're lucky, a little reflowing might restore function.
Ok, I'll set out to do some resoldering... There's a number of heat sinks and I'm not certain if it's just the two massive side units to focus on or some other areas as well (buried) in the belly of the beast. Seems what ever it is affects the whole receiver, not a particular channel When it goes into protect mode, in essence the whole unit shuts off and the pwr light blinks.
Protection circuits typically shut everything down, no matter what triggers them.
You can check the inputs to the protection chip for a clue. It might lead you right to the fault.
You can check the inputs to the protection chip for a clue. It might lead you right to the fault.
Hello.
I just bought a cheap AVR-5803. It was cheap because it's dead. Dead as in - plug it in and nothing - not even a standby light. No relay clicking or such. It's dead.
This will be my first attempt in repairing a dead receiver. I figured that this situation is easier to repair because it's just the power supply (fuses, transformers big and small, wiring, etc.).
I figured a more difficult situation would be a unit powering up but no sound is coming out. That would mean hunting down transistors, ICs - the small difficult stuff.
The previous owner said that he was listening to a CD then the 5803 just went dead. He suspects a power problem in his house.
I have the 5803 repair service manual so we have the schematics and printed circuit board (PCB) illustrations.
I suspect it's one of the mini-transformers (one near the A/C plug and one in the FLAC board unit (whatever FLAC means). Following the schematics and board designs, I figure that power will go to these mini-transformers first before it's accomplices switches 2 relays that will engage the big, honking main torroidal transformer.
So, before I start using my handy-dandy jumper probes and blowing up stuff, I need your help.
Thanks.
I just bought a cheap AVR-5803. It was cheap because it's dead. Dead as in - plug it in and nothing - not even a standby light. No relay clicking or such. It's dead.
This will be my first attempt in repairing a dead receiver. I figured that this situation is easier to repair because it's just the power supply (fuses, transformers big and small, wiring, etc.).
I figured a more difficult situation would be a unit powering up but no sound is coming out. That would mean hunting down transistors, ICs - the small difficult stuff.
The previous owner said that he was listening to a CD then the 5803 just went dead. He suspects a power problem in his house.
I have the 5803 repair service manual so we have the schematics and printed circuit board (PCB) illustrations.
I suspect it's one of the mini-transformers (one near the A/C plug and one in the FLAC board unit (whatever FLAC means). Following the schematics and board designs, I figure that power will go to these mini-transformers first before it's accomplices switches 2 relays that will engage the big, honking main torroidal transformer.
So, before I start using my handy-dandy jumper probes and blowing up stuff, I need your help.
Thanks.
Hope you know how to be safe from mains voltages on the transformer board.
First thing to do would be to check the secondary (AC) voltage of the small transformer after ohms test on the fuses confirm they are good.
Gajanan Phadte
First thing to do would be to check the secondary (AC) voltage of the small transformer after ohms test on the fuses confirm they are good.
Gajanan Phadte
Fuses are okay.
The two mini transformers appear to be in SERIES (visually looking at the PCB and wiring), as opposed to being in parallel (as drawn in the schematic). If one mini-transformer "burns", current stops going to the other small transformer. Thus, the 2 relays does not activate that will power up the Main torroidal transformer.
I will check if the 2 mini-transformers are working.
How do you test a transformer by using a tester? Each transformer has a yellow and white wire going to it (Gauge 18 wires). The same wires as the main A/C outlet.
To put it simply, #1 wire from the outlet, goes to #1 wire on one of the mini-transformer "A", then out wire #2 of transformer "A", going into #1 wire of transformer "B", then out of #2 wire of Transformer "B", then back to #2 wire of the A/C outlet. Like I said, it seems transformer A and B are in series. Strange...
I can put the probes on these 2 wires of the transformer. What ohms setting should I use? And what will I see.
Thanks.
The two mini transformers appear to be in SERIES (visually looking at the PCB and wiring), as opposed to being in parallel (as drawn in the schematic). If one mini-transformer "burns", current stops going to the other small transformer. Thus, the 2 relays does not activate that will power up the Main torroidal transformer.
I will check if the 2 mini-transformers are working.
How do you test a transformer by using a tester? Each transformer has a yellow and white wire going to it (Gauge 18 wires). The same wires as the main A/C outlet.
To put it simply, #1 wire from the outlet, goes to #1 wire on one of the mini-transformer "A", then out wire #2 of transformer "A", going into #1 wire of transformer "B", then out of #2 wire of Transformer "B", then back to #2 wire of the A/C outlet. Like I said, it seems transformer A and B are in series. Strange...
I can put the probes on these 2 wires of the transformer. What ohms setting should I use? And what will I see.
Thanks.
My mistake.
The 2 mini transformers are indeed in parallel. each one receives 120VAC. I was following part of a diagram that's intended for a different region.
I tested the mini-transformer that's on the power board. It shows an open circuit. It's broken.
Luckily, there's a replacement part that costs only $15 (thank god).
I'm keeping my fingers crossed.
The 2 mini transformers are indeed in parallel. each one receives 120VAC. I was following part of a diagram that's intended for a different region.
I tested the mini-transformer that's on the power board. It shows an open circuit. It's broken.
Luckily, there's a replacement part that costs only $15 (thank god).
I'm keeping my fingers crossed.
The insides of the AVR-5803 is not as impressive as other receivers in this price range ($4500). I noticed Denon used a pair of aluminum 18 gauge wires from the power outlet terminal to the power board. the distance is just 3 inches, but I will replace this with copper wires.
I hope they did not use aluminum wires (also 18 gauge) for the main leads to the big Main torroidal transformer. The length is about 13 inches. Nevertheless, I will add a pair of copper wires to beef it up.
I hope they did not use aluminum wires (also 18 gauge) for the main leads to the big Main torroidal transformer. The length is about 13 inches. Nevertheless, I will add a pair of copper wires to beef it up.
Denon 5803 tuner problems
I have a 5803 that has always received FM stations with no problems but just recently with the tuner set to auto where the stereo indicator lights up, I get nothing but static but when switching to manual I can tune the station in.
I've tryed resetting the microprocessor and switching antennas, don't know what else to do ???
Any help would be greatly appreiciated
Thanks
I have a 5803 that has always received FM stations with no problems but just recently with the tuner set to auto where the stereo indicator lights up, I get nothing but static but when switching to manual I can tune the station in.
I've tryed resetting the microprocessor and switching antennas, don't know what else to do ???
Any help would be greatly appreiciated
Thanks
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