I recently got a pair of Jensen H222 (16ohm) coaxial driver and using them on open baffles. They were designed to crossover at 2000Hz. I want to build a crossover with new component for them. I already experimented disconnecting the old cap and connected a new 3.3uF Clarity Cap (which is what I have on hand) to the tweeter while keeping the woofer connecting to the original coil. It sound better already than with the old cap. Originally, they should have only a 1st order crossover but I can't be 100% certain as they are potted in a small cover.
Someone pointed out that Jensen have equivalent separate woofer and tweeter to the H222 coaxial which use the A204 (2nd order) crossover. The A204 is a 2nd order butterworth as shown in the picture. At first, I was thinking to build my crossover base on the A204. Then I read that Linkwitz has a more flat response so I am leaning more toward the Linkwitz design. I wonder what kind of difference should I hear between the 2 kind of crossover?
Also, if I want to save money on parts; can I use lower quality cap or coil for the parallel connection to the tweeter or woofer so that I can put some better one connecting in series? Or should I keep them all the same?
For the coil, would it be better to go with a smaller gauge foil or a larger gauge wire coil for the same money?
Someone pointed out that Jensen have equivalent separate woofer and tweeter to the H222 coaxial which use the A204 (2nd order) crossover. The A204 is a 2nd order butterworth as shown in the picture. At first, I was thinking to build my crossover base on the A204. Then I read that Linkwitz has a more flat response so I am leaning more toward the Linkwitz design. I wonder what kind of difference should I hear between the 2 kind of crossover?
Also, if I want to save money on parts; can I use lower quality cap or coil for the parallel connection to the tweeter or woofer so that I can put some better one connecting in series? Or should I keep them all the same?
For the coil, would it be better to go with a smaller gauge foil or a larger gauge wire coil for the same money?
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FWIW, all the vintage co, tri-axes I've seen the guts of other than the high end Altec duplexes and its 'clones' were all 1st order, including any Jensens, but don't recall ever seeing the H222, though based on what I've just seen on the net it probably is 2nd order.
Note that of the ones I've un-potted from that far back all used a heavy duty wax that my equally ancient 1 kW heat gun melted like ~instantaneously, so I'd try a decent hot air gun such as a 'pro' hair dryer to see if it will melt it, just be careful since it likely has paper caps that can come apart if heated up too much. The later epoxy potted units I did required a butane torch, so got to be very careful not to damage components.
Note that even vintage coils rarely go bad unless hit with a high enough current to also fry the VC and certainly not in today's normal home atmospheres now that central heat, A/C is so common, so what you have should be fine unless you just want to change values a significant amount, which seems unlikely.
GM
Note that of the ones I've un-potted from that far back all used a heavy duty wax that my equally ancient 1 kW heat gun melted like ~instantaneously, so I'd try a decent hot air gun such as a 'pro' hair dryer to see if it will melt it, just be careful since it likely has paper caps that can come apart if heated up too much. The later epoxy potted units I did required a butane torch, so got to be very careful not to damage components.
Note that even vintage coils rarely go bad unless hit with a high enough current to also fry the VC and certainly not in today's normal home atmospheres now that central heat, A/C is so common, so what you have should be fine unless you just want to change values a significant amount, which seems unlikely.
GM
Thanks for GM's input. However, I am not trying to remove the original cap or coil to replace them. Since they are potted and the new parts will probably not fit inside the small cover anyway. I will just disconnect the original crossover and keep them as is. I will build an outboard unit.
Yes, the original coil should not have gone bad. I just wonder if updating to thicker gauge wire or even foil inductor might improve anything? I do suspect the original one is made with smaller gauge wire.
Since there is no specific information about the response of the tweeter or woofer, I will want to keep the crossover point at 2000Hz but hope to build something that is better than the original.
Yes, the original coil should not have gone bad. I just wonder if updating to thicker gauge wire or even foil inductor might improve anything? I do suspect the original one is made with smaller gauge wire.
Since there is no specific information about the response of the tweeter or woofer, I will want to keep the crossover point at 2000Hz but hope to build something that is better than the original.
Thanks for your diagram.
Do you also have the Jensen H222 and applied these crossover?
With my limited knowledge, I understand that this is a LR connected in series. I just wondering if you have tried the more common parallel connection. If so then do you found much difference in sound? Also is that the overall impedance would be different between connecting series and parallel?
Do you also have the Jensen H222 and applied these crossover?
With my limited knowledge, I understand that this is a LR connected in series. I just wondering if you have tried the more common parallel connection. If so then do you found much difference in sound? Also is that the overall impedance would be different between connecting series and parallel?
Hi,
I don't have the speakers. The schematic of the crossover is the second order Linkwitz-Riley at about 2250Hz. The frequency response is flatter than the frequency response of the crossover you have. I draw the schematic of the crossover again. The first schematic and the second schematic are the same crossovers (just different ways to draw it). That means they will work exactly the same. The inductors are 2.2 mH,16AWG laminated core ERSE Super Q inductors. The capacitors are 2.2uF Mundorf MLytic Bipolar capacitors. You can use 2.2 uF Clarity Cap ESA 250V (my favorite capacitor) if you like it. I am always have good result with my design. Good luck!
I don't have the speakers. The schematic of the crossover is the second order Linkwitz-Riley at about 2250Hz. The frequency response is flatter than the frequency response of the crossover you have. I draw the schematic of the crossover again. The first schematic and the second schematic are the same crossovers (just different ways to draw it). That means they will work exactly the same. The inductors are 2.2 mH,16AWG laminated core ERSE Super Q inductors. The capacitors are 2.2uF Mundorf MLytic Bipolar capacitors. You can use 2.2 uF Clarity Cap ESA 250V (my favorite capacitor) if you like it. I am always have good result with my design. Good luck!
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Hi guys, I have a set of H222 and one crossover is going out. How did the repair go? Leaving the potting alone and bypassing it sounds great. Please let me know how it all went! Thank you
I didn't try to repair it. I bypassed the original and built a new crossover for them. I work out great. I probably spend too much money on the parts as I moved on to other speakers. I still keep them as they sound great but just not using them most of the time.
I believe they built the crossover differently over the years. So some may be easier to access the capacitor. Do you want to only replacing the capacitor? Have you taken off the cover of the crossover? Post some photo of it.
New to me Jensen H-222
Just got a pair of these. One has a brown basket and the other is unpainted. And the Crossover covers (haven't disassembled or unpotted) are different. From the front they look identical and are pristine as they appear to have never been out of the EV Aristocrat cabinets they came in.
Hoping I don't have a blown tweeter but one of them currently runs out of gas around 5k and the other keeps going, so I expect the xo is sick or the tweeter blown. The L-pad is also questionable on the one with limited HF.
will be somehow trading the xo's to diagnose later today.
Thus i am VERY INTERESTED in the schematic you finally settled on.
Will post pics once I have them out of the cabs.
Thanks in advance for any assistance...
Just got a pair of these. One has a brown basket and the other is unpainted. And the Crossover covers (haven't disassembled or unpotted) are different. From the front they look identical and are pristine as they appear to have never been out of the EV Aristocrat cabinets they came in.
Hoping I don't have a blown tweeter but one of them currently runs out of gas around 5k and the other keeps going, so I expect the xo is sick or the tweeter blown. The L-pad is also questionable on the one with limited HF.
will be somehow trading the xo's to diagnose later today.
Thus i am VERY INTERESTED in the schematic you finally settled on.
Will post pics once I have them out of the cabs.
Thanks in advance for any assistance...
You should keep them the same. Every component in a crossover network will affect to the reproduction of sound of the speakers. For the coils, you should test them to know which coil sounds best. In one of my crossover network I have used 20AWG air core inductors instead of 18AWG air core inductors because my speaker sounds a lot better with 20AWG inductors.
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Tauntran. Did you know you were answering a question from 5 years ago and pochago has since implemented a crossover that he seems happy with.
I really was hoping Pochago could let me know which crossover of the 3 outlined above he implemented, or if he implemented yet another version that he worked out.
I really was hoping Pochago could let me know which crossover of the 3 outlined above he implemented, or if he implemented yet another version that he worked out.
Confirmed today that the tweeter is not blown. Yay!!!
So expecting i now need to build a new crossover, or at least replace the cap as i expect that is the low output problem on the tweeter.
So my above question is now on my critical path to getting the speakers running.
So expecting i now need to build a new crossover, or at least replace the cap as i expect that is the low output problem on the tweeter.
So my above question is now on my critical path to getting the speakers running.
I just knew this. I am used to forget things from the past. 5 years seems to be a long time to me.