there is a focal ps 165 v1. Which amplifier to choose for it.?
Which is better to choose audison sr 4.500 (130 rms in 1 ch) or audison sr 4.300(85 rms in 1 ch)
Or tell me some other amplifier.
It's hard to choose))
Which is better to choose audison sr 4.500 (130 rms in 1 ch) or audison sr 4.300(85 rms in 1 ch)
Or tell me some other amplifier.
It's hard to choose))
Historically, a good 'rule of thumb' was to have at least 10 W in Class A for highest quality 'normal' average listening SPL, min. 2x - 4x rated max power in class B to ensure that the amp doesn't clip on 'fast' transients, blowing the tweeters if not properly protected.
Much of today's 'canned'/'processed' music apparently is either very compressed and/or the electronics have progressive? compression to protect them from their owners like modern TVs have (and presumably pretty much all mainstream audio electronics), so being a mobile audio system you might only need the recommended 85 W with worst case being just spending more money if choosing more powerful.
Anyway, for those who want to 'dig deeper' into power choices this is an excellent primer/tutorial.
Much of today's 'canned'/'processed' music apparently is either very compressed and/or the electronics have progressive? compression to protect them from their owners like modern TVs have (and presumably pretty much all mainstream audio electronics), so being a mobile audio system you might only need the recommended 85 W with worst case being just spending more money if choosing more powerful.
Anyway, for those who want to 'dig deeper' into power choices this is an excellent primer/tutorial.
D class audison sr4.300 85 rms x 4 chenels< 4om good choose ?Historically, a good 'rule of thumb' was to have at least 10 W in Class A for highest quality 'normal' average listening SPL, min. 2x - 4x rated max power in class B to ensure that the amp doesn't clip on 'fast' transients, blowing the tweeters if not properly protected.
Much of today's 'canned'/'processed' music apparently is either very compressed and/or the electronics have progressive? compression to protect them from their owners like modern TVs have (and presumably pretty much all mainstream audio electronics), so being a mobile audio system you might only need the recommended 85 W with worst case being just spending more money if choosing more powerful.
Anyway, for those who want to 'dig deeper' into power choices this is an excellent primer/tutorial.
Sorry, I literally have no experience with anything DIY mobile audio related since 1990 except for helping others WRT some general interest tech questions such as your original one and designing various types of subwoofer cabs for others using (then) currently available DIY mobile audio subwoofers.
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