Hi everyone,
I want to make my first set of speakers and after some research I'm at a point where I have a design. I would like some feedback from some more experienced people like yourselves before ordering all the parts and start building.
I've made the choice of making a two-way speaker inspired by the JBL L82's so the dimensions will be quite similar. For the drivers I think of pairing the Dayton Audio DA215-8 8" woofer with a DC28F-8 1/8" tweeter. The reasoning behind this, is they will create a similar look and I can use the frequency responses from the DA drivers in VirtuixCAD.
Now where I really can use some feedback is in the crossover design, shocking I know! This being my first ever crossover design, you can only do so much research before you arrive at a point where your basic knowledge gets you no further. For now I've come up with following design:
I'm looking for a warm sound, these speaker will be placed in the living room so it's not like I'm looking for a perfect reference sound. I'm trying to keep the crossover as simple as possible, no need to spend hundreds of euros for minor improvements at this point (that will be for a following project once I got some experience).
What I would like to know is if this looks like a solid start for a first project, but mostly if there are any mistakes I made or important stuff I missed.
Thanks!
I want to make my first set of speakers and after some research I'm at a point where I have a design. I would like some feedback from some more experienced people like yourselves before ordering all the parts and start building.
I've made the choice of making a two-way speaker inspired by the JBL L82's so the dimensions will be quite similar. For the drivers I think of pairing the Dayton Audio DA215-8 8" woofer with a DC28F-8 1/8" tweeter. The reasoning behind this, is they will create a similar look and I can use the frequency responses from the DA drivers in VirtuixCAD.
Now where I really can use some feedback is in the crossover design, shocking I know! This being my first ever crossover design, you can only do so much research before you arrive at a point where your basic knowledge gets you no further. For now I've come up with following design:
I'm looking for a warm sound, these speaker will be placed in the living room so it's not like I'm looking for a perfect reference sound. I'm trying to keep the crossover as simple as possible, no need to spend hundreds of euros for minor improvements at this point (that will be for a following project once I got some experience).
What I would like to know is if this looks like a solid start for a first project, but mostly if there are any mistakes I made or important stuff I missed.
Thanks!
Looks like you did your homework just fine...turning to the enclosure, Simmed out, the suggestion was firmly in the ported camp at 32.1 liters worth tuned for 37.14 hertz which gives us 3.06 Db down at 37.71 hertz. Guess that's OK, but a little re-tuning with a bigger box at 53 liters & 35 hertz picks up a few on the bottom end for -3.06 Db @ 32.23 hertz.
.........................................................................................................................................................................Rick...
.........................................................................................................................................................................Rick...
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I don't think the DC28F will like being crossed so low, although the XO point (looks about 13-1400 Hz/) would suit the DA215. The DC28F has been crossed lower than 2,000Hz, as in the Tritrix (not sure of their XO point) and "Affordable Accuracy Monitors" (about 1800 Hz), but generally, builders have crossed it above 2,000.
Also, suggest you check out these threads:
https://techtalk.parts-express.com/...ng-the-dayton-da215-8-and-a-tweeter-practical
https://techtalk.parts-express.com/...8675-any-thoughts-on-the-dayton-audio-da215-8
There are several well received and freely available designs for the DA175 and the DC28F (eg "Karma Indignia", "Silver Als"), but it looks like you want the 8" woofer.
It looks as if your XO point could be doable with a different tweeter, such as the Vifa DX25BG60-04.
Geoff
Also, suggest you check out these threads:
Ahoy!
I am trying to design a 2-way speaker system. For the Tweeter I am considering:
Dayton Audio RST28A-4 - https://www.daytonaudio.com/product/1565/rst28a-4-1-1-8-reference-series-aluminum-dome-tweeter-4-ohm
And for the Woofer either:
1) 8" Dayton Audio DSA215-8 https://www.daytonaudio.com/product/1315/dsa215-8-8-designer-series-aluminum-cone-woofer-8-ohm
2) 10" Dayton Audio DSA270-8 - https://www.daytonaudio.com/product/1316/dsa270-8-10-designer-series-aluminum-cone-woofer-8-ohm
For my use case frequencies below 80Hz are not super important -- but could be nice...
I am trying to design a 2-way speaker system. For the Tweeter I am considering:
Dayton Audio RST28A-4 - https://www.daytonaudio.com/product/1565/rst28a-4-1-1-8-reference-series-aluminum-dome-tweeter-4-ohm
And for the Woofer either:
1) 8" Dayton Audio DSA215-8 https://www.daytonaudio.com/product/1315/dsa215-8-8-designer-series-aluminum-cone-woofer-8-ohm
2) 10" Dayton Audio DSA270-8 - https://www.daytonaudio.com/product/1316/dsa270-8-10-designer-series-aluminum-cone-woofer-8-ohm
For my use case frequencies below 80Hz are not super important -- but could be nice...
https://techtalk.parts-express.com/...ng-the-dayton-da215-8-and-a-tweeter-practical
https://techtalk.parts-express.com/...8675-any-thoughts-on-the-dayton-audio-da215-8
There are several well received and freely available designs for the DA175 and the DC28F (eg "Karma Indignia", "Silver Als"), but it looks like you want the 8" woofer.
It looks as if your XO point could be doable with a different tweeter, such as the Vifa DX25BG60-04.
Geoff
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If you want a warm sound, you may need some baffle step compensation. Using the PE data only will yield a bass shy design.
The PE data are 'infinite baffle' and not measured in your cabinet, although they're generally regarded as accurate compared with some other makers' graphs, so they're a start.
Looking at your crossover, you have a resistor in series with the woofer - that's a no-no, as it will get hot and could be a fire hazard.
Crossover point aside - and looking at it again, it is too low for that tweeter - you could increase the value of the 3.3 ohm resistor to 6 or 7 ohms to reduce the tweeter output, in effect providing some Baffle Step Compensation.
Alternatively, you could look at using something like a little Vifa TC-7 full range instead of a tweeter; that could work well.
Geoff
Looking at your crossover, you have a resistor in series with the woofer - that's a no-no, as it will get hot and could be a fire hazard.
Crossover point aside - and looking at it again, it is too low for that tweeter - you could increase the value of the 3.3 ohm resistor to 6 or 7 ohms to reduce the tweeter output, in effect providing some Baffle Step Compensation.
Alternatively, you could look at using something like a little Vifa TC-7 full range instead of a tweeter; that could work well.
Geoff
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I think maybe the resistor is the coil dcr estimate. I thought the same thing when I first looked at it.
I think maybe the resistor is the coil dcr estimate. I thought the same thing when I first looked at it. Could well be.
See post number 14 in the following thread:
https://techtalk.parts-express.com/...ng-the-dayton-da215-8-and-a-tweeter-practical
This gentleman really knows his stuff and recently designed the "Zingers" 8" two way speakers, maybe consider those, unless you really want to do your own thing.
The tweeter - originally a Peerless DA25 but now a SEAS as the Peerless is NLA - is a little more expensive than the DC28F but you know you'll get a good result.
Geoff
See post number 14 in the following thread:
https://techtalk.parts-express.com/...ng-the-dayton-da215-8-and-a-tweeter-practical
This gentleman really knows his stuff and recently designed the "Zingers" 8" two way speakers, maybe consider those, unless you really want to do your own thing.
The tweeter - originally a Peerless DA25 but now a SEAS as the Peerless is NLA - is a little more expensive than the DC28F but you know you'll get a good result.
Geoff
Quick and dirty.
Cabinet is 25L tuned @ 40Hz (vent is D=6 x L=15 cm)
Baffle 28x45cm / CtC distance 16cm / Tweeter distance from top edge 7cm
Cabinet is 25L tuned @ 40Hz (vent is D=6 x L=15 cm)
Baffle 28x45cm / CtC distance 16cm / Tweeter distance from top edge 7cm
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