Hi!
This is my first car audio amplifier prototype, it's based on the TL598 pwm controller and the OPA549 power op-amp, supply rails run at +/- 29V (regulated), the heatsink/chassis can't disipate the heat for long periods at rms-power tests, but the amplifier can deliver 75Wrms@4ohms for a short time.
The pictures are very bad, but at least shows the amplifier 🙂
This is my first car audio amplifier prototype, it's based on the TL598 pwm controller and the OPA549 power op-amp, supply rails run at +/- 29V (regulated), the heatsink/chassis can't disipate the heat for long periods at rms-power tests, but the amplifier can deliver 75Wrms@4ohms for a short time.
The pictures are very bad, but at least shows the amplifier 🙂
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Looks good. Do you have a lid? I'd put a fan on it and use forced-air cooling. Maybe that will help.
That looks great!!! I second the fan idea. Use a small fan and underpower it so it is quieter. You could even use two in a puch pull configuration.
How does it sound?
How does it sound?
It is very beautiful and simple as it should be.
If you can make a amplifier to give 800watts rms at 4 ohms i will buy it 🙂
If you can make a amplifier to give 800watts rms at 4 ohms i will buy it 🙂
If he could get 80wrms a chan. and make it sound great I would love to try to build something like this.
In a few days I will reply in more detail, sorry, this days I can't.
Greetings from México.
Juan Carlos
Greetings from México.
Juan Carlos
I should have seen this before. Do you have hold-down bars for your power devices? You probably won't even need a fan(o dos) if you can press those bad boys to the sink.
Sorry, I meant “these days”
Yes, I have a lid for the amplifier (and better pictures):
The lid assembly isn’t finished yet, that’s the reason why you don’t see any screws .
A fan isn’t considered because at normal listening tests (music) the amplifier doesn’t get too hot .
How does it sound?, mmm, I can only say that sounds good to me, you’ll see I don’t have much listening experience with “reference equipment”, also as you can read, my english is not good (not as good as I wish) so, I have a lot of ideas that I don’t know how to translate properly (I’m working on it but any help will be welcome).
I do have bars to press the power devices (the pictures in the first post shows an unfinished interior)
The bad news:
The supply was not stable (at 1Khz and producing 75Wrms@4 ohms on a single channel it was), I did the feedback compensation wrong (anyway it is only a prototype so it worked for that purpose) and burnt the mosfets twice (one time at continuous power test, trying to get the same 75Wrms@4ohms but this time at 20Hz and the other at full music power test with both channels driven), so a new design is coming soon.
Juan Carlos
I took the fuse socket idea from an old sony amplifier.
With a couple of faston connectors like these:
I removed the plastic cover, soldered a pair of wires (as indicated in the next picture) and bended the part "a" and the wires so I could solder the connectors in a through hole fashion.
That way, the socket (or better said each connector) is fixed firmly to the pcb
With a couple of faston connectors like these:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I removed the plastic cover, soldered a pair of wires (as indicated in the next picture) and bended the part "a" and the wires so I could solder the connectors in a through hole fashion.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
That way, the socket (or better said each connector) is fixed firmly to the pcb
i think that it is just great that you made an amp by yourself...
what about cutting 20hz a bit, or even completely filtering it out? pretty much everything below 30 hz is useless anyway.
or maybe putting in some current limiting, to limit the current when the transistors specs are peaked ?
what about cutting 20hz a bit, or even completely filtering it out? pretty much everything below 30 hz is useless anyway.
or maybe putting in some current limiting, to limit the current when the transistors specs are peaked ?
Going below 30hz may be usless in home audio but in car audio a flat responce from 20hz-20khz is possible.
first of all congratulations 
i request you to kindly post the circuit diagram, & pcb layout,
looking forward your reply
i request you to kindly post the circuit diagram, & pcb layout,
looking forward your reply Clipped said:
There is some music with sub 30hz notes in it, organ music especialy.
You hear it fine if your car is up to it.
I love the real ultra low stuff.
J.Carlos said:I took the fuse socket idea from an old sony amplifier.
With a couple of faston connectors like these:
I removed the plastic cover, soldered a pair of wires (as indicated in the next picture) and bended the part "a" and the wires so I could solder the connectors in a through hole fashion.
That way, the socket (or better said each connector) is fixed firmly to the pcb
I am no mean an amplifier expert but some of those small blue connectors are not rated to have much current through them.
I looked at the back of the packets on some of them and the amount of rated current was very low.
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