I am designing a BlueTooth speaker to build, mainly for a fun woodworking project, but I also want to make it as nice as I can.
Any input or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
I plan to use two Dayton ND91-4 3 1/2" Drivers and two ND90-PR 3 1/2" Passive Radiators.
Still trying to pick out what amplifier I want to use, but probably something like this TPA3116, I like that it has Bass, Mid, and Treble adjustments.
Amplifier LINK
Anyone used it before?
The drivers call for a 0.03 cu. ft. vented enclosure, but I have seen quite a few builds using the Parts Express 0.04 cu. ft. enclosures with good results.
So, that would work out to an enclosure 0.06 to 0.08 cu. ft. for two drivers.
But, I am having trouble getting the enclosure that small. Do you think there will be an issue running a bit larger enclosure?
Here are the designs I have so far.
Version 1
I think this one might sound the best, as far as having the radiators on the sides, rather than the back.
It works out to 0.12 cu. ft. (not counting loss for components)
(shown with back removed)
Version 2
This moves the radiators to the back, letting me make the enclosure more narrow.
Works out to 0.09 cu. ft. (not counting for loss for components)
Version 3
Basically the same as version 2, also 0.09 cu. ft. but has the sides extended vs. the top and bottom.
Version 4
0.097 cu. ft.
Version 5
0.09 cu. ft. (0.045 cu. ft. per driver)
I think this is what I will be going with.
Any input or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
I plan to use two Dayton ND91-4 3 1/2" Drivers and two ND90-PR 3 1/2" Passive Radiators.
Still trying to pick out what amplifier I want to use, but probably something like this TPA3116, I like that it has Bass, Mid, and Treble adjustments.
Amplifier LINK
Anyone used it before?
The drivers call for a 0.03 cu. ft. vented enclosure, but I have seen quite a few builds using the Parts Express 0.04 cu. ft. enclosures with good results.
So, that would work out to an enclosure 0.06 to 0.08 cu. ft. for two drivers.
But, I am having trouble getting the enclosure that small. Do you think there will be an issue running a bit larger enclosure?
Here are the designs I have so far.
Version 1
I think this one might sound the best, as far as having the radiators on the sides, rather than the back.
It works out to 0.12 cu. ft. (not counting loss for components)
(shown with back removed)
Version 2
This moves the radiators to the back, letting me make the enclosure more narrow.
Works out to 0.09 cu. ft. (not counting for loss for components)
Version 3
Basically the same as version 2, also 0.09 cu. ft. but has the sides extended vs. the top and bottom.
Version 4
0.097 cu. ft.
Version 5
0.09 cu. ft. (0.045 cu. ft. per driver)
I think this is what I will be going with.
Last edited:
Couldnt help it, wanted something with more style, so did version 4
Really liking that one, just hoping the volume isnt too much.
I think once you take away for the components inside it should be ok though.
Really liking that one, just hoping the volume isnt too much.
I think once you take away for the components inside it should be ok though.
You'll want each channel in its own enclosure. A simple wall between the two would work. I'd see how it sounds in a larger enclosure and then add mass to the inside of the enclosures, such as pieces of wood or styrofoam to decrease the interior size of the enclosure.
I haven't used a passive radiator, but I read a rule of thumb is twice as much surface area for the PR as the speaker. Maybe others will chime in and clarify.
I'd say experiment with it, but realize that tried and true designs didn't happen the first time around for their designers. Deliberate designing and tweaking are what make a good sounding speaker. Experimentation might also work well, if things fall into place.
Have fun with it,
Mike
I haven't used a passive radiator, but I read a rule of thumb is twice as much surface area for the PR as the speaker. Maybe others will chime in and clarify.
I'd say experiment with it, but realize that tried and true designs didn't happen the first time around for their designers. Deliberate designing and tweaking are what make a good sounding speaker. Experimentation might also work well, if things fall into place.
Have fun with it,
Mike
Not sure I can easily sense the audio controls and amplifier will be in the center of the enclosure.
The longer designs I guess I could offset it to one side. Or build a center chamber just for the amp and controls.
The passive radiators are matched to the drivers, since they are made by teh same company and designed to work with them.
Its not just the surface area, its the area and how far the excursion is. The radiators have a higher excursion, so it makes up for them being the same surface area.
Good idea though on just adding mass to the inside of the enclosure if it ends up being too much volume.
The longer designs I guess I could offset it to one side. Or build a center chamber just for the amp and controls.
The passive radiators are matched to the drivers, since they are made by teh same company and designed to work with them.
Its not just the surface area, its the area and how far the excursion is. The radiators have a higher excursion, so it makes up for them being the same surface area.
Good idea though on just adding mass to the inside of the enclosure if it ends up being too much volume.
Designing these things in Sketchup is addicting. haha
Version 5
I took the advice to separate the left and right channels, and moved the radiators to the sides.
Works out to 0.045 cu. ft. per side. I think this is the one I will go with.
Version 5
I took the advice to separate the left and right channels, and moved the radiators to the sides.
Works out to 0.045 cu. ft. per side. I think this is the one I will go with.
Thanks,
Sketchup is probably by far the easiest program to use like this. Though, it is alot less powerful than some others.
Fusion 360 is another great free program, though it is more powerful, it is a bit harder to use.
I love being able to do these designs though, helps me visualize things, and pull dimensions from.
Sketchup is probably by far the easiest program to use like this. Though, it is alot less powerful than some others.
Fusion 360 is another great free program, though it is more powerful, it is a bit harder to use.
I love being able to do these designs though, helps me visualize things, and pull dimensions from.
Homemade BT Speaker
Finally finished my BT speaker the other day.
Amp/BT Receiver is from AliExpress. Has bass, mid, and treble adjustments.
2 x Dayton Audio ND90 Full Range Drivers
2 x Dayton Audio ND90-PR Passive Radiators
Sounds decent, better than plenty of other BT speakers I have heard,
though if I were to do it again, I would add a tweeter, even with the treble all the way up, it lacks the crisp highs.
Plenty of bass though, and decent mids.
Finally finished my BT speaker the other day.
Amp/BT Receiver is from AliExpress. Has bass, mid, and treble adjustments.
2 x Dayton Audio ND90 Full Range Drivers
2 x Dayton Audio ND90-PR Passive Radiators
Sounds decent, better than plenty of other BT speakers I have heard,
though if I were to do it again, I would add a tweeter, even with the treble all the way up, it lacks the crisp highs.
Plenty of bass though, and decent mids.
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