Over the years I have used many methods to mount speakers including screws, bolts, flexible glues; coupled with various materials used for gaskets. I would be interested in hearing personal views on this subject, in short "What method do you use to mount a speaker?"
Pete
Pete
I'm with Bob Brines on this. I use threaded inserts and machine screws for all drivers and even plate amps. For larger drivers I use the largest screw (and thus insert) the driver can take: 10-24 or even 1/4-20 for some 15" woofers and subwoofers. McFeelys and McMaster-Carr.
Normally, whatever size machine thread t-nut is appropriate. Gasket material is Mortite if I'm not using the supplied one.
GM
GM
How about those cool clamps that JBL uses to attach
low drivers into their monitors. Anyone have a source?
low drivers into their monitors. Anyone have a source?
You want like JBL, I imagine you'll have to buy JBL. Basic prosound clamps are available in hardware stores or on-line at Martin Sound.
GM
GM
I prefer using a "flexible adhesive" for drivers up to 6.5". With the baffle facing upwards I place a bead of adhesive around the routed insert, press 4 felt washers into the adhesive to prevent the driver from touching the baffle, and let the weight of the driver hold it in place. Cure for a day before using.
For 8" and upwards I use threaded inserts as long as the baffle is wood or plywood. I do not like them in mdf as they tend to loosen up with time. Mortite is a great gasket material, better I think than the gaskets supplied with many drivers, it also is useful to "deaden" drivers with stamped steel frames.
Thanks for your opinions, hope this info might help first time builders.
Regards,
Pete
For 8" and upwards I use threaded inserts as long as the baffle is wood or plywood. I do not like them in mdf as they tend to loosen up with time. Mortite is a great gasket material, better I think than the gaskets supplied with many drivers, it also is useful to "deaden" drivers with stamped steel frames.
Thanks for your opinions, hope this info might help first time builders.
Regards,
Pete
I follow the theory of tightly coupling materials of dissimilar mechanical characteristics to maximize the damping effect of each on the other.
To do this, I have found that a thin coating of rubber cement will seal air leaks and prevent high frequency rattles while allowing the metal of the basket and the wood or plastic/composite of the baffle to maximally damp each's natural resonance characteristics.
This approach seems to work well even with stamped steel baskets.
Mark
To do this, I have found that a thin coating of rubber cement will seal air leaks and prevent high frequency rattles while allowing the metal of the basket and the wood or plastic/composite of the baffle to maximally damp each's natural resonance characteristics.
This approach seems to work well even with stamped steel baskets.
Mark
Threaded insert
Do anyone have any pictures of threaded inserts?
I've only been using t-nuts but the smallest size i can get is for 5mm screws.
Can threaded insert take screws narrower than 5mm?
Do anyone have any pictures of threaded inserts?
I've only been using t-nuts but the smallest size i can get is for 5mm screws.
Can threaded insert take screws narrower than 5mm?
I would use T-Nuts to hold the speaker to the baffle, but I do use threaded inserts in blind holes to mount the baffle to the enclosure from the inside of my subs. Find some samples here:
http://www.rtlfasteners.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=Q
http://www.rtlfasteners.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=Q
Attachments
>I've only been using t-nuts but the smallest size i can get is for 5mm screws.
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http://www.stafast.com/products/tnuts.html
GM
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http://www.stafast.com/products/tnuts.html
GM
Follow the link and click on grill clamps. The cast Alu ones are similar to the EV pro-sound clamps and much less expensive than the JBL ones
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