Okay,
I am a beginner in DIY crossovers. I have a pair of early in-line L100s that I am rebuilding the crossover on. After much research I decided I wanted to keep it simple but still have a high and low pass on the mid and high frequency driver.
I decided to create a sort of a hybrid of the L166/4312/L112 crossover for my JBL L100.
These are the components I am planning using and in this order:
Low - 2.2mh jantzen inductor
Mid - 10uf Jantzen sup z cap, .6mh Jantzen inductor, 15w L pad
High - 4uf Jantzen sup z cap, .25mh Jantzen inductor, 15w L pad
I have all my equipment and parts ready to go, only issue is I am having trouble with the crossover layout. The diagram I drew up seemed simple enough but now looking at the way JBL did their crossovers and utilized the L Pad it’s getting confusing.
I’m looking for assistance on how to layout the crossover using these parts on this fairly simple crossover design? Feel free to draw a picture for me lol.
Thanks in advance!
I am a beginner in DIY crossovers. I have a pair of early in-line L100s that I am rebuilding the crossover on. After much research I decided I wanted to keep it simple but still have a high and low pass on the mid and high frequency driver.
I decided to create a sort of a hybrid of the L166/4312/L112 crossover for my JBL L100.
These are the components I am planning using and in this order:
Low - 2.2mh jantzen inductor
Mid - 10uf Jantzen sup z cap, .6mh Jantzen inductor, 15w L pad
High - 4uf Jantzen sup z cap, .25mh Jantzen inductor, 15w L pad
I have all my equipment and parts ready to go, only issue is I am having trouble with the crossover layout. The diagram I drew up seemed simple enough but now looking at the way JBL did their crossovers and utilized the L Pad it’s getting confusing.
I’m looking for assistance on how to layout the crossover using these parts on this fairly simple crossover design? Feel free to draw a picture for me lol.
Thanks in advance!
Maybe you can show their and your versions, and a picture of the speaker.
An L-Pad is often used right next to the tweeter.
An L-Pad is often used right next to the tweeter.
Hard to follow what is going on here. Either replace the components in kind with the same (or close) values in the same spot--maybe this is what you are trying to do or go for a modified crossover such as Dennis Murphy has done for these.
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To be honest, why in the world would you want to apply a crossover from another speaker to this one? Strangely enough, I have a pair of the L100 crossovers in my attic. Me, I'd replace the two caps with polyethylene caps from Parts Express (Dayton or Solen) and definitely replace the L-pads, those are very problematic. No inductors as far as I can see, but maybe I missed them when a broke apart and disposed of the cabinet. The audioheritage site has some knowledgeable JBL people, might want to investigate that.
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Hey all,
The reason for wanting to apply a new crossover is because I needed to replace the caps and this crossover came with an entirely different crossover than all the other JBLs L100s (L100a). In my opinion it’s a terrible crossover design as it barely utilizes the tweeter at all and muffled the midway to the point that the woofer is doing most of the work.
I believe the components and crossover design I created will give me an hybrid of the L166 and L100A. Basically an L100a or 4312 without the natural roll off.
Thanks for posting the L-pad diagram it makes more sense now. After watching a couple of videos I think I was making it harder than it really is. Looking at the original crossover design and trying to make sense of it was overwhelming.
The reason for wanting to apply a new crossover is because I needed to replace the caps and this crossover came with an entirely different crossover than all the other JBLs L100s (L100a). In my opinion it’s a terrible crossover design as it barely utilizes the tweeter at all and muffled the midway to the point that the woofer is doing most of the work.
I believe the components and crossover design I created will give me an hybrid of the L166 and L100A. Basically an L100a or 4312 without the natural roll off.
Thanks for posting the L-pad diagram it makes more sense now. After watching a couple of videos I think I was making it harder than it really is. Looking at the original crossover design and trying to make sense of it was overwhelming.
Having had several L100/ 4310 series in the past I can provide some observations…JBL seems to have taken a model S70 Alpha III and modified the crossover to make a more midrange predominant small monitor…the 4310. A problem shared with either model is the LE5-2 midrange that though transparent has a very peaked frequency response and in either model is crossed over too high IMO. If I were going to redo a crossover for an L100 I would first punt and replace the LE5-2 with a 104h-2 driver and give the S70 AlphaIII crossover a go.
Of interest, the excellent German loudspeaker diy magazine Klang Und Ton published last year an upgrade to the classic L100 filter. The curve is commendably flat with their filter, the waterfall plot is good too.
The pdf of this back issue is very reasonably priced, in my opinion worth your investment
Klang & Ton 2/2020 (epaper)
The pdf of this back issue is very reasonably priced, in my opinion worth your investment
Klang & Ton 2/2020 (epaper)
