Hi guys, I like the shape and stance of this enclosure:
mjk's project 2 ML TQWT -
http://www.quarter-wave.com/Project02/Project02.html
Now the nearest info I could find on the driver was this sheet🙁click on it and zoom in in picasaweb)
and another that say Fs was 55Hz.
Will this go in one of these? I mean I'm going to give it a go anyway, but I'm not sure of the dimensions of the enclosire, nor the position of the driver.
Cheers, stevo.
mjk's project 2 ML TQWT -
http://www.quarter-wave.com/Project02/Project02.html
Now the nearest info I could find on the driver was this sheet🙁click on it and zoom in in picasaweb)
and another that say Fs was 55Hz.
Will this go in one of these? I mean I'm going to give it a go anyway, but I'm not sure of the dimensions of the enclosire, nor the position of the driver.
Cheers, stevo.
Looking at that, I have my doubts. That page indicates that they were used when new in slotted (nee ~resistive vent) boxes, suggesting to me they're a high[ish] Q design. If so, you'll likely get an uncontrollable bass response as-is.
FWIW, I just ran a check on that box with the high Q Visaton B200 just to see what's going on with a unit of that sort. As-is, response is what you'd expect (vile). However, if you damp / stuff the entire cabinet, and stuff the vent too to make it a quasi aperiodic alignment (while keeping the aesthetic of the cabinet), it does passably enough down to about 50Hz or so.
FWIW, I just ran a check on that box with the high Q Visaton B200 just to see what's going on with a unit of that sort. As-is, response is what you'd expect (vile). However, if you damp / stuff the entire cabinet, and stuff the vent too to make it a quasi aperiodic alignment (while keeping the aesthetic of the cabinet), it does passably enough down to about 50Hz or so.
So, basically I'll be just using the design as asthetics only, and won't be helping the driver.
and is probably better of in a 2 way simple sealed/small ported enclosure being a high Q driver? correct?
can't be any worse than my beer box speakers 😀 😀 LOL...
and is probably better of in a 2 way simple sealed/small ported enclosure being a high Q driver? correct?
can't be any worse than my beer box speakers 😀 😀 LOL...
back on the transmission line enclosure, This is a quote from another website that I found someone new some information about the driver:
OK, I am going to scrap that idea (again 🙂 )
so simplest build with best wide audio range for a pair of fe206e 's I can pickup from local company majormusic.com.au for $230 delivered for the pair.
I like a bit of bass, my hearing is probably half shot from the early eight's and being a drummer giging for 10 years, but I can still tell bad from 'thats nice' /nods head...
room is 3 meters wide (2.2mtr anamorphic screen), 9 meters long seats 9 people 🙂, and about 2.6 meters to ceiling.
music is pretty much mainstream rock/pop, small percentage classical/country, mostly David bowie style music🙂
amps are currently a JVC surround 70w x 6 , 70's JVC transistor amp 30 x 4, and a couple of diy tripath amps ( various stages of build).
Current mains are some floor standers, base reflex 3 x 8" bass , 4" mid 1" tweeter's which do great for moovies with plenty of punch for the video noise and bass. but want to be able to switch amps and listen to some nice clear music...
Metronome
simplest to build, 4 sides, top bottom, port. - can't find a plan for the fe206e
BIB
the calculator doesn't have the fe206e listed..
or bruce
price wise the metro's or the BIB would use about the same amount of wood and probably time aswell to build. The Bruce using more wood, and more time/effort to build.
I like the metro shape, the others are a bit square without doing something fancy with the shape.
Considering my wife works when I'm home, so shortest build period is not a requirement, but a preference 🙂
please help me decide on a solution 😀 😀 😀 😀
so simplest build with best wide audio range for a pair of fe206e 's I can pickup from local company majormusic.com.au for $230 delivered for the pair.
I like a bit of bass, my hearing is probably half shot from the early eight's and being a drummer giging for 10 years, but I can still tell bad from 'thats nice' /nods head...
room is 3 meters wide (2.2mtr anamorphic screen), 9 meters long seats 9 people 🙂, and about 2.6 meters to ceiling.
music is pretty much mainstream rock/pop, small percentage classical/country, mostly David bowie style music🙂
amps are currently a JVC surround 70w x 6 , 70's JVC transistor amp 30 x 4, and a couple of diy tripath amps ( various stages of build).
Current mains are some floor standers, base reflex 3 x 8" bass , 4" mid 1" tweeter's which do great for moovies with plenty of punch for the video noise and bass. but want to be able to switch amps and listen to some nice clear music...
Metronome
simplest to build, 4 sides, top bottom, port. - can't find a plan for the fe206e
BIB
the calculator doesn't have the fe206e listed..
or bruce
price wise the metro's or the BIB would use about the same amount of wood and probably time aswell to build. The Bruce using more wood, and more time/effort to build.
I like the metro shape, the others are a bit square without doing something fancy with the shape.
Considering my wife works when I'm home, so shortest build period is not a requirement, but a preference 🙂
please help me decide on a solution 😀 😀 😀 😀
The metronome is simple conceptually, but depending on how anal you want to be about your construction making all those non-parallel cuts can be a PITA.
I'd bet the BIB is a simpler build.
I'd bet the BIB is a simpler build.
stevodude said:
Use the 207 dimensions. You might need to add more correction. You might not.
Yes it does. And anyway, that's why they call them calculators: you can enter specs into both sheets yourself you know -all you need to do is type in the driver Vas, Qt & Fs. 😉
stevodude said:
Decent but superceeded as-is by Chang now.
If you want quick / simple & have corners to load them into (they're corner horns) then the BIB would seem to a bit of a no-brainer.
Alternatively, as you like Martin's ML TQWT, why not use that. Using accurate 206 specs (average of 8 drivers) measured by Dave, from a technical POV it should work OK in that box, no modifications required, as shown below. I think it should squeeze in, physically.
Attachments
Greets!
FWIW, I had some experience with the Magnavox circa '67 in a factory cab of ~8 ft^3 combined with a 2.2 uF capped off HF horn. It was open at the bottom and spaced up off the floor with 1/4" tall x 1" diameter furniture tacks according to my notes. This was the cab that taught me two valuable lessons WRT cab static and acoustic resistive mass loading when I 'cloned' it as a ~48" tall floor-stander by omitting its 3/4" thick slate top in-lay and naively converted its floor slit vent into a standard baffle thickness rectangular shaped one higher up.
What started out as a curiosity about how an acoustically too short TL might affect vent loading with cheap 'throw away' drivers turned into a minor cornucopia of speaker design insight that's dictated my cab layout preferences ever since.
Regardless, these I used are best suited for low output impedance, AM/FM, vinyl, systems of the day, so for today's wider BW sources it ideally needs a sub system and more extended super tweeters.
GM
FWIW, I had some experience with the Magnavox circa '67 in a factory cab of ~8 ft^3 combined with a 2.2 uF capped off HF horn. It was open at the bottom and spaced up off the floor with 1/4" tall x 1" diameter furniture tacks according to my notes. This was the cab that taught me two valuable lessons WRT cab static and acoustic resistive mass loading when I 'cloned' it as a ~48" tall floor-stander by omitting its 3/4" thick slate top in-lay and naively converted its floor slit vent into a standard baffle thickness rectangular shaped one higher up.
What started out as a curiosity about how an acoustically too short TL might affect vent loading with cheap 'throw away' drivers turned into a minor cornucopia of speaker design insight that's dictated my cab layout preferences ever since.
Regardless, these I used are best suited for low output impedance, AM/FM, vinyl, systems of the day, so for today's wider BW sources it ideally needs a sub system and more extended super tweeters.
GM
Thanks everyone.
I've done a basic model of the metronome for the fe207, which will fit the fe206e in no probs.
I've modeled it on 3mm Plate steel ( as I have quite a few large sheets lying around over at the farm shed. ), so once I finish weilding up my ride on mower , I'm going to build a pair of steel metronome's , if anything it will give me some more experience with the weilder. 🙂
I've seen a BL horn built out of steel, and i want to give it ago, as all it will take is my time for welding, no other cost, so nothing to loose.
I've uploded my metronome sketchup into 3d warehouse if anyone wants it. Dimensions I just checked are slightly out :-/ but only by a couple of mm, soe probably won't make any difference.
Port I guess will be 3" (75) x 3"(75) long?
and basically line all the walls with some sound deadening, may not need any cotton fill?
I've done a basic model of the metronome for the fe207, which will fit the fe206e in no probs.
I've modeled it on 3mm Plate steel ( as I have quite a few large sheets lying around over at the farm shed. ), so once I finish weilding up my ride on mower , I'm going to build a pair of steel metronome's , if anything it will give me some more experience with the weilder. 🙂
I've seen a BL horn built out of steel, and i want to give it ago, as all it will take is my time for welding, no other cost, so nothing to loose.
I've uploded my metronome sketchup into 3d warehouse if anyone wants it. Dimensions I just checked are slightly out :-/ but only by a couple of mm, soe probably won't make any difference.
Port I guess will be 3" (75) x 3"(75) long?
and basically line all the walls with some sound deadening, may not need any cotton fill?
oh and the BIB won't be any good as they won't be anywhere near the corners as I have the wide projection screen up to 1/2 meter off the wall and bass traps behind the screen and the theatre speakers in front of the edges, so the new full ranges will be infront (outside) the theatre speakers. (ie pretty close to the side walls).
next weekends project is cut the steel up for fitting and sand blasting, then tack welding. Then I'll have a go at a 2 pack gloss black.
they are going to be quite meaty looking I do believe 😀
next weekends project is cut the steel up for fitting and sand blasting, then tack welding. Then I'll have a go at a 2 pack gloss black.
they are going to be quite meaty looking I do believe 😀
hehehe MMmmmmmm isocyanates.... tasty on the tonge, but not the lung 🙂 
'apparently' it's illegal to use 2-pack spray painting at home?... 😀 😀
still, no one will know, apart from you and me aye.😀
'apparently' it's illegal to use 2-pack spray painting at home?... 😀 😀
still, no one will know, apart from you and me aye.😀
So what would the difference between:
a: Metronome project06 http://www.quarter-wave.com/Project06/Project06.html
b: MJK ML project05 http://www.quarter-wave.com/Project05/Project05.html
assuming both made out of the same material, and using the same fe206e drivers...
My understanding would be that the MT ML design would have more bass?
a: Metronome project06 http://www.quarter-wave.com/Project06/Project06.html
b: MJK ML project05 http://www.quarter-wave.com/Project05/Project05.html
assuming both made out of the same material, and using the same fe206e drivers...
My understanding would be that the MT ML design would have more bass?
The link you have posted which you titled metronome is not actually a metronome. Though they are both tapered quarter wave tubes, they have different tapers.
The metronome has a quadratic taper. This can be seen because all sides are angled and all sides dimension expand from top to bottom. The link has a linear taper since only one side is sloping.
As for bass output you will have to wait for the experts for that one. I don't have any experience simming anything yet.
The metronome has a quadratic taper. This can be seen because all sides are angled and all sides dimension expand from top to bottom. The link has a linear taper since only one side is sloping.
As for bass output you will have to wait for the experts for that one. I don't have any experience simming anything yet.
ah yea, my mistake, should have been http://www.frugal-horn.com/metronome.html
but yea, metronome vs MJK ML project05
man I'm all over the place atm, I just resigned at my current employment today :-/
but yea, metronome vs MJK ML project05
man I'm all over the place atm, I just resigned at my current employment today :-/
It's all good. Sorry, you have a lot going on man. Yeah there is so much out there it's hard to keep it straight. Just looking at the graphs that are available the straight TL has bass output that reaches lower than the metronome before it rolls off.
yea I just like the different shape of the metronome, but more bass with the straight TL...
AAArrrrghhh... I will make a decission...
...
...
going to build the metronome's first. 😀
AAArrrrghhh... I will make a decission...
...
...
going to build the metronome's first. 😀
stevodude said:
Nice to know someone is doing well enough to have this kind of flexibility.
Anyway, I don't understand what you're agonizing over. Why not just scale up the Metronome to match MJK's net Vb which yields not only the same tuning with his vent, but has a theoretically better frequency/impulse response, especially with the smaller diameter vent, though doubtful it's audible enough to matter.
Using Scott's dims except SO = ~18.65"^2, SL = ~147.8"^2 and either a 3" dia. x 2.5" or MJK's 4" dia. x 6" vent (5 ohms series R added):
GM
Attachments
stevodude said:So, basically I'll be just using the design as asthetics only, and won't be helping the driver.
and is probably better of in a 2 way simple sealed/small ported enclosure being a high Q driver? correct?
can't be any worse than my beer box speakers 😀 😀 LOL...
Really, I am confused that how you can manage it to work.
StevO dude!!
I just bought a pair of those on Ebay, I was only bidder and thought it was worth a shot at using them.
Have you ever found the parameters?? I have a couple of pair of those cheap Jaycar paper woofers, and was thinking of these as a mid using any cheap tweeter I can find for the top.
Just another experiment as I promised a pair of speakers to friends.
I like cardboard boxes, price is right and size is usually right for bookshelfs or stands, stiffen up quite well with a few coats of PVA and some newspaper, CHEAP TOO!!!
I just bought a pair of those on Ebay, I was only bidder and thought it was worth a shot at using them.
Have you ever found the parameters?? I have a couple of pair of those cheap Jaycar paper woofers, and was thinking of these as a mid using any cheap tweeter I can find for the top.
Just another experiment as I promised a pair of speakers to friends.
I like cardboard boxes, price is right and size is usually right for bookshelfs or stands, stiffen up quite well with a few coats of PVA and some newspaper, CHEAP TOO!!!
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