Updating and repairing my cd player (MF Xray v1)
Repairs are done (new laser, basic mech, spindle motor)
On to the capacitor replacement.
Most are being replaced with panasonic 'FC' or 'NHG'.
DAC and audio out section questions.
General concensus of starget caps ?
Good - bad- don't bother ?
Also, trying to find decent non polars.
Need 47u16v.
Unless I can find non electro replacements that will physically fit ?
Lastly, opamps are 5532's.
Suggested replacements ?
Thanks........
Repairs are done (new laser, basic mech, spindle motor)
On to the capacitor replacement.
Most are being replaced with panasonic 'FC' or 'NHG'.
DAC and audio out section questions.
General concensus of starget caps ?
Good - bad- don't bother ?
Also, trying to find decent non polars.
Need 47u16v.
Unless I can find non electro replacements that will physically fit ?
Lastly, opamps are 5532's.
Suggested replacements ?
Thanks........
Mm definitely keep us oupdated on this as I have the xray and am thinking of trying some mods.I,ve looked on the net but all I find is stuff for the later models.
So far I've found that the laser (KSS240a) *may* have issues with the lens suspension sagging.
Was very much an issue on mine.
Spindle motor was also loose as and noisy.
One laser runner had a tiny crack in it too.
Got a laser and complete mech (metal frame with spindle and disc table ready mounted) from WES.
Bought the player second hand.
Didn't like burnt disc's (occasional skipping) and even had a few skips on original discs.
The new laser and mech has cured that.
Using another (different brand) player as reference, this has helped sound quality by a small amount.
Sounds just that fraction more open at high frequences than it did before.
Have finished re-capping the main power/control board.
Will recap the DAC board on the weekend.
Was very much an issue on mine.
Spindle motor was also loose as and noisy.
One laser runner had a tiny crack in it too.
Got a laser and complete mech (metal frame with spindle and disc table ready mounted) from WES.
Bought the player second hand.
Didn't like burnt disc's (occasional skipping) and even had a few skips on original discs.
The new laser and mech has cured that.
Using another (different brand) player as reference, this has helped sound quality by a small amount.
Sounds just that fraction more open at high frequences than it did before.
Have finished re-capping the main power/control board.
Will recap the DAC board on the weekend.
Mine hasn,t had alot of use,but I was thinking of upgrading the caps.Do you know what brand the original caps are I'm curious but I might use some nichikons or blackgate depending on what I can find and fit.
All the original caps are Teapo 85deg.
Very well known for spewing their guts out.
One of the worst brands ever made.
They rank up there with luxon, gsc, et all.
By some miracle not one in my player has leaked.
Very well known for spewing their guts out.
One of the worst brands ever made.
They rank up there with luxon, gsc, et all.
By some miracle not one in my player has leaked.
OK, job done.
Mostly.
I've changed all the electro's for a mix of panasonic FC and NHG.
Only reason for the mix is availability and size constraints.
If not for these reasons I would've used FC's throughout.
Only two caps I didn't change are a pair of 47u16v NP.
Still need to find a good replacement.
As far as I can tell there is no difference in sound quality after the cap change.
I feel better for being rid of the teapo's though.
Mostly.
I've changed all the electro's for a mix of panasonic FC and NHG.
Only reason for the mix is availability and size constraints.
If not for these reasons I would've used FC's throughout.
Only two caps I didn't change are a pair of 47u16v NP.
Still need to find a good replacement.
As far as I can tell there is no difference in sound quality after the cap change.
I feel better for being rid of the teapo's though.
Attachments
Hi MM have you had a chance to do more listening with the new caps installed.pity you couldnt compare side by side with non modded one,what state are you in.
You may use black gate NX bi-polar to replace the original.
Why you don't change the opamp? You can hear much more different.
Why you don't change the opamp? You can hear much more different.
Lazenna;
Played almost non stop saturday arv and most of sunday.
Very nice sounding player.
Actually, I do have access to another xray v1.
So if I get the chance on the w/end I might just try the two side by side.
Will be interesting.
Oh and queensland/brisbane.
Psycoman;
Black gates, yes, not the esiest to get in australia I don't think.
I was hoping for something like a poly/foil type cap.
Problem will be finding a low voltage one or one that's physically small enough to fit neatly.
If I'm going to change these two, I want the next step up on electro's.
Opamps, see first post. I do want to change them, just not sure which to use.
These "Burson" units could be possible.
Played almost non stop saturday arv and most of sunday.
Very nice sounding player.
Actually, I do have access to another xray v1.
So if I get the chance on the w/end I might just try the two side by side.
Will be interesting.
Oh and queensland/brisbane.
Psycoman;
Black gates, yes, not the esiest to get in australia I don't think.
I was hoping for something like a poly/foil type cap.
Problem will be finding a low voltage one or one that's physically small enough to fit neatly.
If I'm going to change these two, I want the next step up on electro's.
Opamps, see first post. I do want to change them, just not sure which to use.
These "Burson" units could be possible.
I lived in Wollongong for about 10 years. I can only buy the components in Jaycar and dick smith. You may need to order the Black gate in the web. For the opamps, I only recommend the high end model such as opa128sm/lm, opa627sm/bm, LT1057ACH.
They have different sound depends on what you need. From my experience, don’t use the same model in the I/V section and the output section. Since no opamp is perfect, you should make a combination.
They have different sound depends on what you need. From my experience, don’t use the same model in the I/V section and the output section. Since no opamp is perfect, you should make a combination.
I don’t have a X-ray but I have a X-24K. X-ray uses PCM1716, X-24K uses PCM1728. They have the same output current so I think the output circuit is the same. The expensive combination I use is OPA128SM/LM for the I/V and OPA627SM/BM for the output. It is not bad but I still don’t satisfy with the performance, compare with the PCM1704 and PCM1794. May be PCM1728 is not a high-end DAC.
I also try a cheaper combination that is OPA627 for the I/V and OPA2134 for the output. The overall 3D feel is less than OPA128. OPA627 and OPA128 are single opamp. You need an adaptor to make it dual.
I also try a cheaper combination that is OPA627 for the I/V and OPA2134 for the output. The overall 3D feel is less than OPA128. OPA627 and OPA128 are single opamp. You need an adaptor to make it dual.
I know what the problem is. My main DAC has a upsampling chip to 24/192. MF X-24K is a standard DAC without upsampling so the sound is not detail compares with upsampling but still good. OPA128SM/LM + OPA627SM/BM is a very good choice.
OPA627BM has a very good extension
OPA627SM has better extension
OPA128JM has very special sexy vocal in the mid-range, high extension is not enough
OPA128KM has very special sexy vocal in the mid-range, high extension is not enough but a little bit better than JM
OPA128LM less very special sexy vocal in the mid-range but the extension is good
OPA128SM is well balance with the sexy vocal and the extension
LT1057CH is well balance; transparency is not enough compare with OPA627SM/BM
LT1057ACH has better extension
OPA627BM has a very good extension
OPA627SM has better extension
OPA128JM has very special sexy vocal in the mid-range, high extension is not enough
OPA128KM has very special sexy vocal in the mid-range, high extension is not enough but a little bit better than JM
OPA128LM less very special sexy vocal in the mid-range but the extension is good
OPA128SM is well balance with the sexy vocal and the extension
LT1057CH is well balance; transparency is not enough compare with OPA627SM/BM
LT1057ACH has better extension
Excellent, many thanks....
Now I just need to make the time to try these opamps.
Think it might be a while though, so much to do...
Now I just need to make the time to try these opamps.
Think it might be a while though, so much to do...
OPA627 in the output section is very important. For the cheaper solution, you may try OPA627BP/AP. OPA128 is very sensitive so the sound is very detail. Unfortunately, there is no SRC in the machine. My feeling is lacking something in between the notes.
I find that OPA2134 is good for I/V. I seldom find OPA2134 is good I put it away for many years.
I find that OPA2134 is good for I/V. I seldom find OPA2134 is good I put it away for many years.
Just checking prices on these opamps.
Holy cheese and crackers !!!!!!!!!!!!
Expensive, you ain't kidding.
OPA627SM - $145 Ea
OPA627BM - $75 Ea
OPA627BP - $69 Ea
OPA627AP - $47 (Burr Brown)
OPA627AP - $27 (TI)
And these are single opamps where the original (NE5532ap) is dual, so double that price and add an adaptor.
Around $200 total I could get away with, more than that and I'd be shot..
Repeatedly !
Any suggestions for dual opamps ?
"there is no SRC in machine"
In whose machine and what is a "SRC" ?
And your reasoning for different opamps in different stages is to stagger any flaws in them ?
Thanks...
Holy cheese and crackers !!!!!!!!!!!!
Expensive, you ain't kidding.
OPA627SM - $145 Ea
OPA627BM - $75 Ea
OPA627BP - $69 Ea
OPA627AP - $47 (Burr Brown)
OPA627AP - $27 (TI)
And these are single opamps where the original (NE5532ap) is dual, so double that price and add an adaptor.
Around $200 total I could get away with, more than that and I'd be shot..
Repeatedly !
Any suggestions for dual opamps ?
"there is no SRC in machine"
In whose machine and what is a "SRC" ?
And your reasoning for different opamps in different stages is to stagger any flaws in them ?
Thanks...
This forum needs an update to the software.
Very annoying not being able to edit your own posts after x minutes.......
SO..
EDIT..
At these sorts of prices would my money be better spent on an extarnal dac rather than playing with opamps ?
Can get (apparently) quite reasonable dac's for around the $200-$300 range.
This would open up other avenues too.
( PC - DAC - Hifi )
Very annoying not being able to edit your own posts after x minutes.......
SO..
EDIT..
At these sorts of prices would my money be better spent on an extarnal dac rather than playing with opamps ?
Can get (apparently) quite reasonable dac's for around the $200-$300 range.
This would open up other avenues too.
( PC - DAC - Hifi )
>>Around $200 total I could get away with, more than that and I'd be shot..
Yes, I am not kidding but don’t be desperate. I can find the cheap components in Hong Kong that are taken from the surplus. Don’t try to buy a cheap one in ebay. They may be fake. A good opamp can use at least two decades.
Go to this link, http://www.diykits.com.hk/OPA.htm This Company sells the used component and also the dual opamp adaptor.
>>Any suggestions for dual opamps ?
I find that the OPA627 is quite important in the output stage. I can’t find anyone can compare with this one. May be LM4562 is also a suitable choice, this is in new production. I have listened once in the shop. This opamp optimizes for +14V/-14V. If the supply is +15V/-15V you need to add a heat sink.
>>"there is no SRC in machine"
>>In whose machine and what is a "SRC" ?
SRC is a sample rate converter. There is no SRC in X-ray. It uses to up-sampling the CD quality 16bit/44.1K to 24bit/192K. Roughly, you can see a huge different.
>>And your reasoning for different opamps in different stages is to stagger any flaws in them ?
Yes.
??Can get (apparently) quite reasonable dac's for around the $200-$300 range?
This is a never ending story until you go to high-end. If you have a DAC you would still want to upgrade the opamp in the DAC.
Sometimes an external DAC is not good because of extra signal path (internal I2S format convert to SPDIF format for transmission and than convert back to I2S format). You also need a good transport and a good SPDIF transmitter.
I have modified NEC6Xi CDRom as the transport. This is a very cost effective solution for a best transport. I modified a better power supply and a good SPDIF transmitter.
I did a lot of DIY projects and collect many antique audio but still don’t have time to put into my blog. You may have a look on it. http://drcylau.spaces.live.com/
By the way, where can you find so many parts in Australia such as new laser, basic mech, spindle motor, Panasonic cap, opamp…? I really can’t find that good stuffs when I was there.
Yes, I am not kidding but don’t be desperate. I can find the cheap components in Hong Kong that are taken from the surplus. Don’t try to buy a cheap one in ebay. They may be fake. A good opamp can use at least two decades.
Go to this link, http://www.diykits.com.hk/OPA.htm This Company sells the used component and also the dual opamp adaptor.
>>Any suggestions for dual opamps ?
I find that the OPA627 is quite important in the output stage. I can’t find anyone can compare with this one. May be LM4562 is also a suitable choice, this is in new production. I have listened once in the shop. This opamp optimizes for +14V/-14V. If the supply is +15V/-15V you need to add a heat sink.
>>"there is no SRC in machine"
>>In whose machine and what is a "SRC" ?
SRC is a sample rate converter. There is no SRC in X-ray. It uses to up-sampling the CD quality 16bit/44.1K to 24bit/192K. Roughly, you can see a huge different.
>>And your reasoning for different opamps in different stages is to stagger any flaws in them ?
Yes.
??Can get (apparently) quite reasonable dac's for around the $200-$300 range?
This is a never ending story until you go to high-end. If you have a DAC you would still want to upgrade the opamp in the DAC.
Sometimes an external DAC is not good because of extra signal path (internal I2S format convert to SPDIF format for transmission and than convert back to I2S format). You also need a good transport and a good SPDIF transmitter.
I have modified NEC6Xi CDRom as the transport. This is a very cost effective solution for a best transport. I modified a better power supply and a good SPDIF transmitter.
I did a lot of DIY projects and collect many antique audio but still don’t have time to put into my blog. You may have a look on it. http://drcylau.spaces.live.com/
By the way, where can you find so many parts in Australia such as new laser, basic mech, spindle motor, Panasonic cap, opamp…? I really can’t find that good stuffs when I was there.
>>Around $200 total I could get away with, more than that and I'd be shot..
Yes, I am not kidding but don’t be desperate. I can find the cheap components in Hong Kong that are taken from the surplus. Don’t try to buy a cheap one in ebay. They may be fake. A good opamp can use at least two decades.
Go to this link, http://www.diykits.com.hk/OPA.htm This Company sells the used component and also the dual opamp adaptor.
>>Any suggestions for dual opamps ?
I find that the OPA627 is quite important in the output stage. I can’t find anyone can compare with this one. May be LM4562 is also a suitable choice, this is in new production. I have listened once in the shop. This opamp optimizes for +14V/-14V. If the supply is +15V/-15V you need to add a heat sink.
>>"there is no SRC in machine"
>>In whose machine and what is a "SRC" ?
SRC is a sample rate converter. There is no SRC in X-ray. It uses to up-sampling the CD quality 16bit/44.1K to 24bit/192K. Roughly, you can see a huge different.
>>And your reasoning for different opamps in different stages is to stagger any flaws in them ?
Yes.
??Can get (apparently) quite reasonable dac's for around the $200-$300 range?
This is a never ending story until you go to high-end. If you have a DAC you would still want to upgrade the opamp in the DAC.
Sometimes an external DAC is not good because of extra signal path (internal I2S format convert to SPDIF format for transmission and than convert back to I2S format). You also need a good transport and a good SPDIF transmitter.
I have modified NEC6Xi CDRom as the transport. This is a very cost effective solution for a best transport. I modified a better power supply and a good SPDIF transmitter.
I did a lot of DIY projects and collect many antique audio but still don’t have time to put into my blog. You may have a look on it. http://drcylau.spaces.live.com/
By the way, where can you find so many parts in Australia such as new laser, basic mech, spindle motor, Panasonic cap, opamp…? I really can’t find that good stuffs when I was there.
Yes, I am not kidding but don’t be desperate. I can find the cheap components in Hong Kong that are taken from the surplus. Don’t try to buy a cheap one in ebay. They may be fake. A good opamp can use at least two decades.
Go to this link, http://www.diykits.com.hk/OPA.htm This Company sells the used component and also the dual opamp adaptor.
>>Any suggestions for dual opamps ?
I find that the OPA627 is quite important in the output stage. I can’t find anyone can compare with this one. May be LM4562 is also a suitable choice, this is in new production. I have listened once in the shop. This opamp optimizes for +14V/-14V. If the supply is +15V/-15V you need to add a heat sink.
>>"there is no SRC in machine"
>>In whose machine and what is a "SRC" ?
SRC is a sample rate converter. There is no SRC in X-ray. It uses to up-sampling the CD quality 16bit/44.1K to 24bit/192K. Roughly, you can see a huge different.
>>And your reasoning for different opamps in different stages is to stagger any flaws in them ?
Yes.
??Can get (apparently) quite reasonable dac's for around the $200-$300 range?
This is a never ending story until you go to high-end. If you have a DAC you would still want to upgrade the opamp in the DAC.
Sometimes an external DAC is not good because of extra signal path (internal I2S format convert to SPDIF format for transmission and than convert back to I2S format). You also need a good transport and a good SPDIF transmitter.
I have modified NEC6Xi CDRom as the transport. This is a very cost effective solution for a best transport. I modified a better power supply and a good SPDIF transmitter.
I did a lot of DIY projects and collect many antique audio but still don’t have time to put into my blog. You may have a look on it. http://drcylau.spaces.live.com/
By the way, where can you find so many parts in Australia such as new laser, basic mech, spindle motor, Panasonic cap, opamp…? I really can’t find that good stuffs when I was there.
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